There lies the problem I don’t have a BT gap tool. I guess I should have remembered to add that. ?
but I think I can still swing it through the dash menu.
I have gotten a yellow suspension fault three time in the last three weeks, twice today. It has been happens when I am driving over an hour. I have a three year old AMK compressor and it dose not look like I have a bad height sensor on the off-road screen. Can I use the GAP DII to diagnosis a...
I have good voltage now at the spot where the drop was. I just need to get the right fuse for the 8g wire. The one I just got on Amazon is to big and dose not ever nave a 15 amp option only 20. Should I just use that or should I find a new fuse holder?
So if I just cut it out and Solder the fuse holder I have into the 8 gauge at the female side of the plug it should be Okay? Making sure I understand you right.
I really do think the problem is the ARB issued plug that goes from the fridge to the power port. However beefing up the whole harness will be a benefit in the long run.
Tryed on all three setting. But this is not the problem. Even if it was in the high settings it would still turn on, it would just fault. Right now their is a voltage drop when I plug the fridge in so it won’t even turn on To give the fault.
New wiring is just arrived from Amazon. So I now to get a new inline fuse and get the hooked back up and see if it will fix my problem. If it dose I’ll run the wire back into the truck and if not I’ll order the new plug cable.
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I had a Battery Health check done yesterday at Interstate and it camp up Good but who knows... I wondered it the solar panel might be fudging the battery Health as it is three years old.
I agree, but the power drop only happens when the fridge is plugged in. If the fridge is unplugged the power is strong all the way to the female plug the goes into the back of the fridge. That want I’m thinking that has to be where the problem is. ?♂️
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