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***SOLD***I have a kit I bought from Trail Gear to rebuild a set of FJ80 steering knuckles on a project of mine. I ended up going with a different axle and not longer need the kit. It is part number 303441-1-KIT on Trail Gear's site and currently sells for about $73...

***SOLD***As the title states I have a locking rear diff for the FJ80. I bought it for a project and went with a different diff. It was pretty crusty when I bought it and the actuator is corroded beyond repair. I was going to build an air actuator for the diff. As I mentioned it was pretty...

The kit will rely on an engine AND transmission swap. Essentially you take the engine and transmission of your choosing and sort out how to put it in the van. I happen to be using a 2.2 subaru and the auto trans that is atrached to it. I will be using one of the available subaru-to-vanagon...

Still no physical progress so to speak but I did obtain a couple more physical parts. I managed to wrangle up a crusty pair of spindles and knuckles for the switch to the toyota truck parts. I will clean these up an be running them with a set of IFS hubs so I can run some 05+ Tacoma rotors and...

I have been in the Stirling industry for almost 10 years and used to work for the company that licensed the stirling cooler to the company (Twinbird) that built those units for coleman. As your link shows, our company built their own 250 watt version using the "coleman" box with their own...

Diamond is the only housing manufacturer that I have not talked with at this point. I have no doubts that all the parts exist to make this work. It's just a matter of tracking them all down. After reading a lot about the aftermarket smaller birfs and shafts I have no doubts that they will be...

Yes there are some issues. The 4Runner rear diff I will be running does have an oil slinger according to diagrams but it is up in the pinion housing near the driveshaft flange. Seems like a weird place to put it to me but I'm no Toyota engineer. From the looks of it it may just be to keep an...

Metcalf, You may be responding to a post that got deleted because of a cell phone service issue I was having while typing it or you are clairvoyant. For those without the gift allow me to enlighten you. I spoke with the gear vendors that I hoped could whip me up a gear on the cheap. It...

I'm probably comparing apples to oranges but Mercedes still sells the G wagen with all of its outdated suspension and solid axles and people still love it. It is also still pretty luxurious but they do sell a slightly stripped down professional version for the "workin' man"... or woman. Of...

I talked to the place yesterday and they had a flat rate of about $1500 just for the CMM process. This included detailed measurements and transfer to the 2D and 3D drawing files of my choice. However once I mentioned that I would likely be having the gear made there as well after I modify the...

Well after checking my bar in the garage it is actually only 6061 so that rules that out. A flat of 7075 in the length, width and thickness I would need is about $265. This particular piece of my puzzle should not cost that much so I am going to explore some of the other options. In other...

This has also crossed my mind. I actually have a piece of 1.5 square 7075 in the shop that I could just machine the relief out of, much like your round bar idea, tap the ends and call it done. Not super sure about an aluminum tie rod though. I know 7075 is strong and I have worked with it...

That would be my engine of choice but , as you mentioned, the price puts it way out of my reach for the time being. I feel like I could tweek a TDI a bit to get the HP and torque numbers I am looking for and have a much more common and cost effective engine set up.

1.4:1 would put me slightly over my ideal final drive but might be nice if I go a little bigger in the future. I think once I get a diesel in this thing my 4:10 axle ratio and the 1.2 high range should be just the thing for mileage and power.

This would likely be the simplest path forward but I would like to explore having a profile cut from some flat stock that would be keyed so it all interlocked together and would be welded. This would result in a 1.5 inch square tie rod with a wall thickness of my choosing that would have the...

Yeah I've read that is is generally a good idea to tack it at opposite sides. Then let it cool to the touch. Then do the other two sides and let it cool. Then start with a more substantial short weld and the same on the opposite side and let it cool. So on and so forth until the whole thing...

I had a little spare time today to tinker in the garage. I had to spend some of that time fixing my bench vise that I nearly ripped off the table trying to turn the passenger side knuckle and for some odd reason I broke the two screws that hold one of jaws in the vice so I had to tear it apart...

Anyone that was watching this build can check out the rest in my new thread. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/162055-Volkswagen-Vanagon-4x4-Conversion I wanted a thread that more accurately described what was going on and cleared out all the non 4x4 upgrades.

Well I did the cut and turn today. Have not welded it yet. However I posted it in my van build so rather than post it all here again you can check out what I have done on page 4 of my build http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/162055-Volkswagen-Vanagon-4x4-Conversion/page4

Today I tackled one of the things about which I have been most apprehensive; cutting and turning the knuckles to correct the pinion and subsequently the caster angle. I took a pretty crude approach to the whole thing but lets be honest, solid axles are pretty crude in this day and age. A lot of...