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Why thank you. That's my old girl. Just got her running and considering a diesel swap now. That's not a bad idea. Maybe on V2 i'll look into that.

I built my rear wall door frame prior to purchasing the door and used their cut size. I do not recommend. I made my door frame 26"x42" when in fact it should've been 26"x42-1/8" now some of you that have installed doors will say why not room for shims. Well I am not a door installer and I didn't...

And of course the required how awesome does this look pictures. I am super pleased about the profile of this thing. Fingers crossed all this work holds up.

With the camper finally being to the point where i can mount it to the truck i am able to start building the rear wall. I do have to modify to be able to clear the door. The manufacturer said 42" tall when in fact it is 42-1/8" tall. No big deal though i am going to cut and tap 4 new vertical...

For everyone wondering this is how it is attached to the truck. At the front center I have a plate that is more for location then anything. The sides are modified canopy clamps that are made for the toyota bed rails. I replaced my bed rails last spring with unistrut to give myself more options...

These past few weeks have been rough. There has been a lot of trial and error (mostly error) to figure out the gas strut placement. I've broken too many screws too count at this point. I am finally at the point where I am waiting on parts. If you use 80/20.net just understand that they will not...

I plan on sharing once i am done. Shouldn't be very long now.

Ideally it was supposed to cover the gap. Unfortunately it did not flex enough. So i was unable to close the top fully.

I got the trim attached around the bottom of the canvas. I am not convinced this will last very long, but i'll try it. I also ended up removing the base cove that I was going to use as a drip edge because it wouldn't allow the camper to shut. I am really glad i have not used screws until this...

I looked at the double bulb seal, but they are a little too wide. With Trim, siding, and frame it's 1.25" wide but the trim is the only contact portion and it is 1" wide.

Hello, yes it certainly can be done. How do you plan to seal the camper to the truck bed rails? I am using a 3/8" thick waterproof rubber seal. I see a crossmember(s) running across the width of the bed towards the back. Is that for temporary bracing while you’re working on it? It was used to...

Recpro makes an RV siding that comes in a 10' wide roll and up to 50' long or so. I was going to go that route but decided to not worry about attaching it to a sub-board and then paint.

great yes. fast no. i've been using 80/20.net

Thanks! It wasn't to hard to do. I did have a bit of a learning curve at first and the R&D portion was rough.

One of the 100W solar panels and the Tern Overland door which by the way looks amazing and I am stoked to get it installed.

I attached the top of the canvas using double sided tape. I then laid the canvas on it and rolled it out and clamped it until I could get the front trim piece screwed in place. I was unable to find a drip edge so I used the next best thing! Base cove molding! We will see how well it holds up. At...

Roof panel installed. This is the reason why I eventually narrowed the camper to 60". I was able to find these ACM sheets in a 5'x10' sheet and it gave me the option to have a solid roof.

With the roof frame rebuilt and the lift mechanisms lowered its looking a lot better and there is far less flexing when I pull on the sides and middle of the roof.

I went super simple with the canvas. I made a flap with Velcro for a liner and I have no windows. I decided not to do windows simply because my sewing machine cannot handle that much material. I will at a later date have one made up with windows.

I built the bed frame portion that pulls out and decided to see how the mattress fits. I also wanted to know how the roof shut with mattress left in the bed area.