Raptor Liner makes a great improvement! Sanding the existing powder coat exposes all the poor adhesion areas, which then must be acid etch primed before Raptor coating. $104 for 4 quart kit on Amazon with spray gun. See my earlier posts.
Glad my little weighing adventure helped you! These things are so much fun to work on and customize to each of our desired application. I hope they prove to be tough enough out on the trail! I notice that when the trailer is lowered, from being jacked, even empty, the wheels increase their...
According to Mighty Max, this is a true deep cycle. I just like the idea of gel cell for rough of roading, not necessarily needed, but for the few extra $$, I felt worth it. You are correct that many so called deep cycle batteries are actually not!
Same here, I like versatility! Bought some Delphi connectors when I did the lights on my JKU, have plenty left over. FYI, for wire, including the mil spec Tefzel jacketed aircraft wiring, check out Pegasus Auto Racing. I found these on Amazon, just bought one to check out the quality and they...
Passed my AZ DMV inspection and received my VIN and miniature license plate today! They told me I must have mud flaps, according to the law, but trusted that I'd put them on before using her.
Last but not least, that terrible rattling of the roof rack! Used felt pads with adhesive backing and a belt sander to give them a nice angled shape to allow the rack to be inserted easily.
Look down between the rack post and the trailer post socket. No more rattle!
So I did some tongue wait experiments today, and I am glad I moved my tongue box back. I don't need a second trailer spare as I went with the same tires an wheels as My JKU. Tongue weight empty is 217lbs. Add a battery, small propane tank and a couple of Jerry cans and up to 266lbs. Given that...
I just do not get it, a flexible panel made of fragile silicon wafers. Seems to me protecting them in a rigid case and glass makes way more sense. The light weight is really nice however! I've also read that the Mohoo does not have a diode?
Considering a couple of these, plus a good quality charge controller. Many of the charge controllers that come with panels, are pre-set voltage for flooded, not AGM batteries...
Seems to me you'd be fine charging anything but an AGM, which requires 14.6 to 14.8V. I just ordered a spool of 12AWG and 10AWG, so I'll have the option. Seems you'd benefit from your vehicle charging your ship battery if you plan on multi location visits, thus the battery would get a charge...
I am measuring 14.1 V at my pin 4 of the 7 pin trailer connector. Without a DC to DC converter, stepping this up, I could not fully charge a 12 V battery. I believe, perhaps a gel cell, but not a flooded or AGM.
Did you find a way to limit the current to 5A?
The roof rack would easily handle the spare, and then some. Seems to me that some L-Track placed along the outside edges, and load bearing points near the roof rack verticle tubes, where the side walls are basically reinforced by the roof rack verticals, would handle a pretty good load.
Kind of what I was thinking, but as in my response to John61ct, I am concerned about the current draw possible through the 7 way harness wiring of my JK. I know you are using a charging system at the battery, this, I believe, would provide the necessary current limit to the system if the charger...
Thanks! Yes, I plan on using solar, but a nice trickle charge while driving is not a bad idea. I was thinking, since it's charging the breakaway battery, it could also charge a larger 12V ship battery, but without some sort of regulation I can see where it might draw more current than the...
Where do you guys take your vehicle power from for charging an additional battery in the trailer? I am assuming off of the pin 4 wire in the 7 pin, or at the electronic break away battery terminal that I believe pin 4 is wired to in the Scout?
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