Obviously if you decide on 48V as your standard, you would not order packs at a different voltage.
There are very few commercial pack builders that make a decent product at all, much less the IMO essential specs I outlined.
If you want good quality you purchase a big lot of the desired cells...
Endless-Sphere is a better forum for this topic.
There are good solar controllers that output 48V range, usually PWM and boosting voltage from the panel output.
Better to look for MPPT for efficiency, buck converting down to 48V battery storage.
48V is a good "system backbone" voltage...
Not talking laws just practical safety.
On the side is fine for spares, if filling in relatively cool conditions underfill, like 70% rather than the usual 80%
but never operate that way unless designed specifically for that.
Cover it up.
Ensure rack is VERY strong, enough to keep it from...
Which gives access to cell/group level voltages, so you can verify balancing progress?
Are balance setpoints adjustable? Start voltage, delta stop point?
Maximum charge rate allowed?
Discharge?
Ability to connect how many in parallel? Series?
The warming feature is nice, but not hard to...
If you want both batteries charged off solar
say you leave the vehicle stored outdoors without shore power available
then the SC can go to Starter and the DCDC will pass it through to House
assuming it has a VSR/ACR type switch built in, as the good ones do.
"trickle charger" denotes the super crappy old school garage chargers without charge regulation or even termination.
low amps is fine for trickling
Maintainer with 3-stage intelligence is what you want.
Optimate Tecmate is an example
But a high-amp charger is fine too, so long as it is...
A small solar panel is plenty to keep a Starter batt topped up, even in cloudy weather, in the shade maybe 40W
unless you have shore power available, then a small AC-DC "maintainer"
The car battery (Starter) is not involved.
The House battery is on the target side.
On the source power (engine) circuit, all the energy drawn by the DCDC is coming from the alternator.
These devices are specifically designed to work around the purposefully designed charging limitations of...
Maybe you are thinking AC principles.
DC only, in a vehicle, the Common Reference can and should be tied in to multiple points, metal housing points marked "ground" etc wherever you like.
Trailer, camper etc included.
The Negative Return paths are separate and designed to be a much lower...
There is no real Ground there in the true sense of an Earth reference, as in thick copper buried deep in wet ground. Vehicles are "floating", an isolated system.
As I stated, the negative side should match the positive half of the circuit, to create a clean low resistance return path, same...
Any charger should have a home run pair to the target battery.
And loads as well, IMO never rely on chassis ground for anything expensive, important or high-current.
The degree of damage from charging cold cells varies by C-rate and just how cold.
Just going from T-shirt weather to sweater weather can make a huge difference i
with high currents.
Do not charge at all getting down to freezing.
Discharging is not harmful, but power output is crippled
It can be a challenge to find a certified professional willing to help noob DIYers
but IMO worth doing when you get to deadly serious volumes like that.
Not saying the right sort of nerd noob cannot figure things out and remain safe, but...
I met a guy using horizontal forklift 40# aluminium...
Yes a scale is how to be accurate.
Stay under 80% especially in cold weather.
When it gets warm the pressure relief popping is of course venting LPG.
I would not refill disposables at all personally, now that 1# refillables exist would not use them full stop
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