I took the pintle off my LTT flat deck and put on a McHitch. It was the only thing heavy duty enough for my use. I went with the 6 metric ton rated (original not automatic) which is excessive but I'm good with that. I've only put a few thousand miles on it so I can't give a long term review but...
I've been looking as well. If I was going about 35" I probably would have gone with Falken Wildpeak at3w. If you haven't, take a look at those. I am moving up to 37" so ordered some Nitto Ridge Grapplers which seem highly rated all around. I realize they won't compare to a true snow tire.
I think I just typed in "rv fresh tank" and scrolled through. I think you'd quickly find something that works. I used pex. After going through the pump it splits twice with one line to a sink inside, one to an outside spigot by the fold down table and one to a propane shower.
Photobucket seems to want me to subscribe in order to post now and the site turns attachments on their side.
Wired in the rear upper LEDs. Rather than splice them in, I ran a separate circuit. I still need to add my kryptec to the rear.
Filled in the pattern on this side.
Drums will be fine for sure. I would have done the same if it wasn't for needing a decision on the actuator. I didn't want to buy two if I changed my mind down the road. When they rate these trailers, they are definitely planning for abuse and go low.
Disc brakes are up and running. They work awesome. This particular actuator works with my factory controller but not all will. The parts below are what is needed for a disc conversion for a Schutt trailer.
K2HR712E Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - E-Coat - 7,000 lbs...
For anyone needing parts, the inner bearing is #25580 and outer is #14125A. Etrailer has a few disc options available. So far it seems like the axle is built with 7000lb parts which bodes well for the load.
Thanks! You are correct. Drums need about 1000psi and disc 1500. I have read many lower pressure actuators can be converted to higher just by removing a spring in the master cylinder. I have decided not to chance it though and just get the high pressure actuator and the disc conversion.
Did...
Next up is the brakes. I've been debating over all electric vs electric over hydraulic given it is already set up with hydraulic drums. It seems hydraulic is the way to go for stopping power. I also like the idea of not having electric under water in the event I cross a low spot. I think I...
I bolted on the 6 metric ton McHitch after a coat of POR15. It is a big chunk of metal and looks well made. I bolted it on with four 5/8 grade 8 bolts. So far I hooked it to the truck but haven't pulled with it yet. Taking it on and off is very easy. I went with a drop on rather than their...
I decided to modify the tongue and get rid of the surge brakes and clunky jack.
The existing drawbar is 3.5x2.5" 0.25 wall steel. It spans the front 3 frame crossbars on the trailer. The 2 angle bars are the same size and span 2 frame crossbars. The main drawbar and 2 angle supports are tied...
Thanks. Yeah, I saw that. I talked to an engineer at Schutt last week who was very helpful. I told him my specs and he said the chassis including drawbar are fine as is the torsion setup. He said they have tested these for military applications at 5500 lbs which included needing to be...
I bought these for my camper. 75 long but easily rolled up or folded. Not rugged but very comfortable and now on sale for $55.
http://www.target.com/p/simmons-siesta-memory-foam-roll-up-bed/-/A-50408106
Well, I was way off. Turns out when you're overzealous with every piece you weld or bolt on plus add some unnecessary crap the weight adds up. With most of my gear, minus a full cooler it weighs 4300 lbs. One small thing though, my ATV weighs 1000lbs. So I'm looking at 5500 lbs fully loaded...
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