There are two types of requirements for jacks in an off-road vehicle......Repair and Recovery......Under or Around if you want.
While there is a little bit of overlap between these needs, it's very difficult to get one jack that will do both things. My go to solution for years was the simple...
Data your spring manufacturer SHOULD be asking you for....
-What vehicle are you working on?
-Overall weight ( under the tire measurement for the end you are building springs for)
-Un-sprung weight ( weight of your axle and tire/wheel package )
-Pictures of the current shackle setup ( shackle...
Generally, UHMWPE is a wonderfully low friction material, especially on a polished aluminum surface. I've been using these systems for many years now and have had very minimal wear on the winch line or the soft shackles. I find the wear to be similar to any other use case, but I have winch lines...
Lots of miles and lots of trails on this setup across multiple vehicles. I've never had to do a full tire swap in the field, but I mount/dismount all my own big tires on beadlocks anyways because tire shops shy away from them. I did finally have a single puncture on my Colorado BDR trip this...
Mine is constantly changing because I am always developing new gear and ideas, but the basics are.
'Recovery' is a pretty broad thing for me.
-Some way to air the tires down (and back up). Airing down is usually the first thing I try in most situations.
-Shovel
-Kinetic Recovery Rope...
A few notes on this....
-Using a section of 2" square tube to base a recovery device on is a miss. The pin needs to be supported across its entire span to achieve it's maximum strength.
-Pin's definitely come in different strengths and there isn't a lot of 'rating' on many units. I will say...
The first thing you will see is some permanent deformation (elongation) of the ring. That is easy to check for with a set of calipers. The 6061-T6 material I use in my rings will show visible (plastic) deformation well before an ultimate failure above 100klbs.
It's easy to add the numbers up...
I built this 'Dolly' trailer a few years back to haul around my current and future play toys....
The short version...
It is a custom designed ladder style frame that uses a rigid 7K trailer axle with electric brakes that is right through the middle of the frame rails. The Milestar SteelPro...
https://www.cartrade.com/compare-cars/land-rover-defender-90-p300-2021-vs-90-p400-first-edition-2021/
Unless I am missing something, this says its about 100kg difference?
A 1000lb difference in 'engine' weight is on the massive end. A lot of old 115hp 4-cylinder engines weigh just about as much as a modern V8. There might be a 100-200lb difference, but not half a ton.
More power doesn't always make everything 'better', in my opinion, if you mess up a bunch of...
That is nearly a 25% increase in weight! Rarely does a heavier vehicle ever feel as 'good' as a lighter one even if the power to weight ratios are the same. I hope that new engine makes MUCH more power for that kind of weight penalty......and then all that extra power doesn't cause a cascade of...
'Extra' weight is just that....extra. I think being lighter overall is always 'better' in most situations, but weight bias is important to keep in mind.
I would rather be slightly front heavy than rear heavy. With most normal 4wd vehicles, it is more difficult to maintain front bias than many...
I thought I would throw out some field practical use of a tire repair kit....
On a recent 750+ mile long Colorado BDR ( Backcountry Discovery Route ) trip, I had something go through the inside edge of one of the tires. This happened sometime during day 1 or early on day 2 ( of 5 days on the...
I know when I take any of my vehicles and strip out ALL the weight I can ( which depending on the vehicle can be 100 to 500lbs), it makes a noticeable difference in off-road performance. I think beyond how much weight you are removing, is where you are removing weight from as far as location...
I just did the entire Colorado BDR route from south to north with my #LX45 packed for light and fast travel. This trip ended up being 4 nights of camping over about 750 miles of (mostly) dirt with the travel back home tacked on the end. I think that qualifies as 'overlanding'?
The general difference with a bypass shock is that the valving becomes position dependent rather than velocity dependent. This means you can have a very 'open' feeling suspension where it is free to absorb more of the minor inflections and 'chop' on dirt roads with more free bleed and lighter...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.