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With that inward swinging front facing door might put some steel on the door jam since your relying mostly on the dead bolt and some thin strips of wood to keep that closed against the wind.. like some of those anti-kick door plates, which is good security to have.

If your going to unplug overnight you should pre-load the fridge and do some testing.. get a digital thermometer that records min/max temps and put it in there.. see how much temp rise you get overnight with it packed and with it partially packed.. you may need to run the fridge a bit colder...

thats far from flush like that Anker 30W, I would wack it shifting gears or it'd come unplugged from its own weight bouncing in the trailer down washboard roads.. normally I'd agree with the sentiment, its practically the only reason Ive not threw all 12V ACC/Ciggy ports into the bin is for...

How about 30A?

or the blower shaft is snapped or otherwise disconnected and making a ton of mechanical noise without actually blowing any air.. might check out and see if its not something simple like a set screw came loose.

12awg, but its a 70v house panel.. that 325W comes in as like 5A, so its like a ~1% drop on a 50ft spool.

There is absolutely zero point in fix mounting a panel anywhere it gets shaded by the thing its mounted on.. so naturally the roof is one of the better locations, as long as other crap on the roof dont shade it.. if your aircon/spare tire/power vents or any of that are higher than your panel...

I use a fixed 325W panel on the roof, and a portable 325W panel mounted to the side that can swing out or be dismounted and moved to the sun.. for 650W total w/a 100AH LFP Got a spool of marine tinned wire for remote paneling:

My 2017 model AC works fine, its as loud as every other rooftop Air Conditioner I've ever used.. which is anything but quiet, it drowns out my generator.. it turns into white noise tho and is tolerable, its all the blower.. the major issue I have is the compressor, it comes on with a good jolt...

Very cool, when they battery goes flat you got a nice young backup motor once you switch seats..

thats not necessarily what the battery is at though, just what the fridge is seeing on its end of things, with its own load.. perhaps with other loads running off same branch, mebe you fire up an air compressor and drag the voltage down low enough it drops but it dont bounce back high enough to...

ah it looks like the platinum Engels have low voltage cutoffs, but checking out the manual it lets you disable it entirely if you wish:

AFIK I've never seen an Engel w/Internal LVD... dunno of any others without it and the swingarm that are not just rebranded engels but they might be out there.. tons more fridges on market today than there was when I was shopping last.. but most are trying to outdo each other w/features it seems...

Yeah that seems to be when they announce new models and changes, I think they switch the model year build in the summer, and then once they got all the next years first units completed the'll start updating marketing with new updates/models.. hopefully they are building the first couple units...

yeah I doubt we're gonna see a 100W USB-C ciggy charger anytime soon, thats too much power conversion going on for such a form factor.. and while I normally agree with the sentiment, USB-C PD is gonna be around a while, Europe is mandating universal chargers for devices to cut down on e-waste so...

affirmative.. two USB-C cables overdriven beyond spec too.

actually usb-c power delivery spec allows up to 5A @ 20V for 100W, so in theory USB-C could totally power a DC Fridge no problemo.. however this is never gonna happen anytime soon unless you make it yerself, ignoring that low friction yankable plug such as USB-C would be a terrible idea for a...

its more not being able to change settings, like put LVD on low or any indication its running or not.. since LVD just stops the compressor from kicking on and not the internal light from turning on the unit just slowly warms up when battery is dead heh... its just my office beer fridge now on...

I always wished my ARB woulda displayed the voltage it was getting so then you'd know just looking at it how much drop it was seeing.. Most fixed supplies at 12.0VDC would see that as a battery over half discharged, so I can see that being an issue.. if you open power supply up might have a pot...

If you can and are willing to rewire a few amp appliance to run off 10AWG run, then sure the LVD is not that big of a deal.. however, normally without that LVD.. you'd only need to run 10AWG cable for a 6A load if your conductors were 50-60ft in length.. If you wanna run your fridge in a bear...