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@buddha I paid a bit extra for my victron.. its got one of the best standby current Ive found coupled with very respectable efficiency and surge ratings. @Verkstad yeah I use some big ass solar 15A diodes in a few places to keep from backfeeding a few things... its mostly what I had laying...

attached is a simple diagram of my trailer, its needlessly complicated but the important thing to look at is the AC power and the ATS..

It is exactly how its wired, its basically just a multi-pole relay if you know what that is.. COM = Outlets, Normally Closed (NC) = Inverter, Normally Open (NO) = Circuit Box.. when the relay is energized by the circuit box, COM-NO are connected, otherwise COM-NC are connected.. its really...

yep put the converter on its own breaker, so it wont be powered by inverter and thats often the only way to shut it off if you need to work on DC side while plugged in.. working on the DC power system when the air con is on is super nice, trust me. Your Gen and Inverter are two seperate things...

Exactly, so simply rewire the fuse box so your Fridge is on same circuit as your outlets.. its not on its own circuit because it needs it, its an easy fix.. all those wires terminate at the same spot so moving it over to the new breaker is super easy.. then you will wire JUST that circuit up to...

tell me about it, I just checked the dates on my bus tires after pulling it back out of mothballs.. 7/2000, hey they still hold air.. I should replace em, but by the time this thing sees anything more than some low speed test drives between here and some shops those might have aged out too...

Trailers for example pretty much need a DC charger to get a house bank completely full off a tow vehicle.. after a couple dozen feet of rather low gauge wiring the trailer battery will never see full voltage.. the DC charger will boost it back up to what the battery needs to complete its absorb...

If you dont idiot proof this to just work always, and safely without someone having to know and remember to flip a bunch of circuits your gonna end up with a bunch of worthless lead sooner or later, if your willing to pay lifeline kinda money for the house bank, you should take the efforts to...

lets do a thought experiment on this wiring plan of yours as it is.. So, your on battery power, your inverter is feeding your trailer input as a whole.. now your converter is powered, and trying to charge your battery, through the inverter, and off the battery.. so, your inverter is pulling 30A...

the Genset is just shore/external power as far as anyone cares, that dont change nothing.. its the same as you are now plugged into the mains, except you put gasoline in it.. that feeds your main 30A circuit from an external plug.. what you plug your trailer into is mostly irrelevant, you still...

Why do you need a 30A transfer switch? a 2000W inverter fits within a 15A 120V circuit.. you just wire them together on your 15A hardwired outlets, done.. you dont wanna feed inverter to all your circuits, or its gonna feed your air conditioner and onboard charger, and if you have a 120v/12v...

yeah if anything you got it backwards.. put an anderson pigtail directly on your battery with heavy gauge wiring, plug winch w/another anderson into that.. and then cut the end off your jumper cables you carry and put a matching anderson on that.. so if you need to hook up ANOTHER battery (ie...

I use a Xantrex ATS for switching my trailer between shore power and inverter power.. https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-8080915-PROwatt-Transfer-Switch/dp/B004S5Y158 Buy Duracell GC2 batteries from Sams Club, Charge them with 12v profile.. Fit as much solar as you possibly can, nobody has ever...

@Dave Waldo I was doing some research on the rear diff and found that its not possible to lock the rear diff in high range.. the stepper motor moves a little gear selector that shifts into low range before it reaches the locking position.. you'd have to custom machine parts to allow it to work.

dual lithium what? assuming thats 100AH LFP's two of em would take up to 80A of charge current and go from basically empty to full in 2.5h of driving.. 30A will still do the job, at significantly reduced charge rate.. now you'd need to drive or run the engine 6-7h to obtain the same energy...

That combination I proposed provides all the same features, plus: Higher Solar voltage input 75-100v for Victron vs 30v for mgr30.. puts house panels on the table. Individual Solar Chargers for multiple Solar Panels of Varying Voltage/Type Remote Battery Temp Monitoring & Charge Profile...

My 1975 Volkswagen Westfalia would disagree with this sentiment.. 45 years in service and its rear torsion axle is riding just like it always has.

you pay dearly for an AIO unit, and often get less capability and singular point of failure for your money when you have to travel that road. You can go all Victron, BMV Monitor ($200), Smart Solar ($120), Smart Battery Protect ($80) , Orion DC Charger ($150), and a dumb DC PSU ($100) to feed...

I pull a 6000lb 20ft toy hauler all over the country w/out WD or any sway control.. never had anything close to a white knuckle ride, tows fantastic IMO.. tho I am on Air Suspension so everything sits perfectly level w/out WD.. YMMV.

This guy was well on track until his luck ran out, but if someone coulda cleaned the panels off 2 decades woulda been easy: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opportunity_(rover)#Power