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hardwire it, the plugs just introduce more voltage drop..

As a guy whos likely one of the few actually taking his Make/Model off the pavement, IDGAF how many other people are doing it.. or if the manufacturer is making sound market decisions, the market means nothing to me.. the manufacturers business issues are no concern of mine, except for when I...

I like that idea, would mean you'd not have to take it off and plug off the hole in the winter.. just retract it and deal with the loss of room inside.. those things leak so much air through em, would be nice for deserts where it is hot as hell in day and cold at night, could convert it from...

lots of people have installed it into the engine bay fine, obviously away from exhaust components and whatnot.. but when your engine bay is that hot that means it was running or was very recently so the solar is not even needed.. its built in protection is adequate, the key is installing it so...

go for clean as possible so it dont give you any grief out in field where tools are scarce, support the cable bundle with zip ties or anchors of some sort so the inline fuse is not a floating weight just shaking down the trail and weakening the wires. however from battery to SC dont need SAE...

it uses the same fuel tank as the engine.. I gotta get a lift pump from Germany that has the extra feed tube coming out the top or else gotta drill and tap the tank and that sounds terrible w/a clean OEM solution available.. since its OEM it wont run if its low on fuel or battery voltage.. think...

a 75/10 is 75V input max, and 10A output max, it limits its self hard at 10A output regardless of how much you input.. so wire up a ~15A fuse, thats 50% more than you need.. it should never trip in normal usage, and 15A is more than enough to protect a couple feet of 10AWG from any damage if a...

you should fuse the charge controller between the battery, panels themselves don't need fused.. especially if you have a quick disconnect for portable usage and can wire up the solar side of the controller w/out it being hot.. just ensure you exceed any cable ratings on solar side for the panels...

Went to go tune/delete my TDI this last weekend as a birthday present to my self, found the rear main was leaking oil.. backed off voiding the warranty just yet, drove it down the street to Audi Denver and they are yanking the engine out, replacing the rear main.. also re-sealing the upper oil...

that would make sense they had a soft start of some sort already, one of the big sells of those mini aircons is they are more friendly to electrical needs so you can run two of em on the same 15A circuit in an older house.. and if they both cycled at same time and started popping circuits people...

When sleeping w/my aircon it was not the constant noise that would wake me up but the jolt of the compressor kicking on/off, when your on wheels/suspension that kinda thing transfers into your body remarkably easy... I've been thinking of installing a soft-start on mine, not because my honda...

I've had experience with units such as this in various server rooms and datacenters over the years, and they are anything but quiet.. thats not really a requirement when you have 1U servers running at mach 2 nearby.. I would be highly suspect that this would be any quieter than a normal rooftop...

yeah I tried that with FLA, driving for 500-600 miles to recharge the battery is kinda inconvenient, its a nice oprounitistic charge source to use but its hard to work with as a primary charge source, at least in a trailer.. perhaps for a Van or Truck camper where you can bulk up just putting...

anyone who thinks that 100W of solar is plenty for a 200AH+ bank is either abusing the living crap outta their batteries with their head in the sand ignorant of whats really going on, or are real casual and never go out for more than a handful of days at a time and just get an extra day or two...

ah crap I had some crossed wires there, sorry.. not Duratrac's those are heavy beasts.. I'm eyeing Falken Wildpeak, weighs 41lbs for the 31.5's, vs 45lbs for my 30in KO2's.. thats 16lbs of mass shed off drivetrain and wheels are bigger, should bring back some pep. pattern and stuff looks pretty...

it seems to me most trailer performance on trail comes down to having shock absorbers, on a single axle leaf the suspension does very little at trail speeds.. the hitch is the pivot point so super flex suspension is worthless.. but having some dampening other than the tires when that wheel comes...

one of the really nice features of Victron app on your phone is it gives you stats and data broken down in a way that's very easy to understand, what you'll do out in the field is learn how much power a day you need to meet your needs, and then when you setup at a new site and position your...

Some guy who apparently everyone knows personally, 15y ago or so had a torsion axle fail him in Baha, and since then everyone brings it up and says torsion axles are not suitable for serious off roading.. but nobody can point to any other examples of failure, and if you point out the military...

I'm running KO2's this time, I'm happy and satisfied with em.. but next time I think I'mna give Duratrac's a try, they are lighter so even tho I'll be stepping up from a 30in to a 31.5in wheel size the'll be several pounds of rotating mass shaved off.

With a 100AH battery, you really have 50AH usable if you desire the battery to last.. If you are discharging it below 50% you are damaging it, even so called "deep cycles".. a battery thats going to 11v, or 10.5v is not long for this world.. I suspect its gonna be dead by 100 cycles. With lead...