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I'm shooting to keep my loads between 20% and 80% of the battery capacity (60AH day diet is pretty big), I've reduced the charge voltage on solar to 14.4 and it leveled off ~80% SOC from 14.6.. the SmartSolar was in float mode with just like 20W input, so I plugged in crockpot, and with both...

yeah with LiPoFe4 you would go from ~60AH of usable capacity, to 80-90AH of usable capacity for half the weight.. then instead of needing to drive 6-8h to get it back to 100%, you could drive 2.5h to get it back to 100%.. (with a 40A B2B Charger) With lead, if you get to your low disconnect...

I hooked em both up in parallel and played with the one in the sun's tilt, had a little effect.. but not much, like 12W Basically Flat on ground in sun vs Tilted directly inline. This is kinda how I'll be setup at camp, one on roof doing like 30-50W and one on ground doing 200-250W, if the...

ok this is pretty cool, parked under a tree.. in the shade, getting more than enough power for basic loads.. went from 50% to 70% SOC today from 9AM to Noon with fridge running.. numbers might not seem impressive, but I never got near this much out of a flat fixed panel on my other trailer when...

Yesh, its everyday price is what I paid for 100AH LiFePo4, 650W of premium solar panels and charger.. can charge as quick as 2.5h, not 25! Oh and my battery has 10 year warranty, and solar has 25 year warranty.

you shouldn't mix lithium and lead on same load circuit, but you can use same charge circuit if the input parameters are okay for each chemistry. @jacobconroy Lithium charging is simpler, just provide it a constant voltage, done.. if its going to be on a charging circuit long term a lower float...

Coleman Montana

sigh, its day 3 now of rain and I said screw it and got the roof panel up.. running a temp cable down to do some bench testing, this weekend weather is looking good so I can bolt this down, drill a hole through the roof, install the EMT conduit inside and yank the cables to my lil electrical closet.

for fixed and portable combo, you'll scrape more power with separate charge controllers.. since they will be in separate locations with separate lighting conditions its likely one will always be bypassed by the other with a single controller.

since you have a high-amp alternator charger its not required, but 200w is not much solar, 15A would take a good while to refill 100AH.. I just got 650W of solar for that same battery, and the sun dont always show.. so you definitely need something other than just solar.. if your'e fine with...

just trying to help you avoid a spaghetti mess redux.. I have to stop my self from going nuts too.. KISS is usually the best approach, but then I look at my wiring diagram and wonder exactly at what point I threw that philosophy out the window.

emphasis added, however these regulations are mostly regarding the installation of a LP tank.. not the transportation of it as illustrated above... enforcement of these is non existent, you see ppl carrying tanks on rear of vehicles all the time.

you know exactly how much its charging the battery, which is all that matters.. and are you sure your not going to end up paying more for a shunt, wiring, etc than just getting a solar charger that has a simple output display on it.

yeah all that matters is what goes in and out of your battery bank, seeing how much power is going from charge circuit to your fridge is frivolous data, if you want to figure that out turn off your charge source, note what your load wattage/amps are and subtract em from the battery input...

-Amps/Wattage is a load, +Amps/Wattage is a Charge, it can calculate Lithium SOC correctly which I dunno if the BluSea SOC does.

why 3 shunts? a Victron BMV will provide you SOC, Charge and Load with just one.

its 12vdc only, and if your wanting to avoid radio noise perhaps get a radio power supply: https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Around-Pyramid-Converter-PS9KX/dp/B0002BA570/ or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012BL8LG/ref=psdc_10967761_t2_B07KML5SCJ

Got first SmartSolar MPPT 10/30, was an "open box" on Amazon for $180, but it was never opened, just a small corner crunched on original packaging.. worth the deal. oh yeah, these showed up today.. to bad the sun is nowhere arround and the trailer was covered in snow this morning.. yay spring...

ARB's have low voltage disconnects, oversize your wiring for em to avoid premature cut off. I have a wireless sensor in my Engel at the top and it's pretty much what the display is set to (2C), if I set it lower stuff at bottom starts to freeze. I use an external temp sensor so I can record...

I had manual tow bags, aka helper springs.. for >50k miles of towing, just used a bike pump to air em up.. the valve stem cap had a built in tool for pulling the valve to empty em.. usually left valve partially open when not in use so I could change altitude or whatever and they were not going...