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Had a photographer friend stay with me over the long weekend and went out with the camera. His truck makes mine appear normal sized.

Would be more useful as an SUV body. Those 4' boxes are pointless.

The OP wrote the number. Just replying to that.

I thought my wheelbase was long on my CrewCab LongBox F350 at 172.4". That extra 42" will be a ********** in the city.

It's a PIAA bar. Just a stop=gap until I get a new bumper. http://www.piaa.com/store/p/593-Ford-F250-/-F350-/-F450-/-F550-2011-Trail-Light-Mounting-Bar.aspx

Revival of thread.

I think you're going to go through a whole lot of effort for very little gain. Unless you swap out the windows for dual pane versions, insulate the box and tail gate, dual gasket the tailgate to bed seal, you won't really gain much.

That looks odd. Chevys need square fender openings.

I'd drive that. (y)

If your tent opens to the side, you might have room to add rack bars ahead and behind the tent, and then have the kayak pads on those. Kayaks would need to be removed to open tent, unless you design a them to flip to the opposite side than the tent opens to,

It's not quite that simple. There are plenty of differences in measurements between the van and p/u. UJOR is the way to go as the hard work (brain) is already done. I'd lean towards the coil spring version, having had a leaf spring p/u and currently have a coil spring p/u.

Contact Deaver to make a spring pack of the lift desired. They offer standard 5" and 7" packs, but can do custom. Carli uses them for their rear systems. My 2004 I used Deaver leafs for the ride when emtpy, and Firestone bags with Daystar cradles when there was a need to increase load capacity.

Wax. Nothing worse than hairs sticking out from the Borat mankini.

Watch the video in the link below. It explains the basics of suspension and what your limitations are based on the design. Then YOU can figure out what will work best for you so you can get the best bang for the buck. I am not a fan of emulsion shocks, especially when they have a small...

Looking at my Retrax cover, it would require something custom mounted to the top of the bed sides, yet still allow the Retrax to be clamped against the vertical inner top lip. While not impossible, it would take some thought.

Make sure the pitman drop equals the tracbar bracket drop. If they are not the same, expect bumpsteer.

Personal experience with my previous 2004 SD. Happened on my 2016 where I thought the shop pit a new one on my 2016, but didn't. Caught it early as I was checking all the fasteners.

I can't and won't comment on the tracbar bracket, but the pitman arm probably had a re-used nut holding it on. The nut ALWAYS needs to be replaced with a new one whenever it is removed. No amount of Locktite will keep it tight. Once it loosens a bit, it will wallow out the hole and splines of...