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I am starting to get a handle on the rats nest. The wires now lay in place pretty well and soon it is time to start splicing again. One thing hidden under the mess is I have fabricated much neater coolant outlets for the rear heater, I will get decent shots of this in a few days.

I posted this in the wanted section but question if it will get seen there. I apologize for the cross post where I know it does not belong. I am trying to find out if someone might have a set of 3.15 Tcase gears for a Gen 3 here in the states?

I am in search of a set of 3.15 gears for a for Gen 3 if anyone might have a set in country?

I don't know, I will need to look into that. I did find my original introduction posts from '06 when I first posted about the 3.8 in my SR so I expect other threads might be there. I am impressed there seems to be very little loss of data on that site. Just major loss of following.

It was time, It regurgitated it's transmission. And mated to the engine I will do some detail work on engine brackets and stuff. One of the main reasons to pull this was the wire harness was a tangled mess and I could not figure the issue out. Right after mating the transmission and...

I am shopping for A 2.5, I have no interest in that coating. If you rig had original paint I would be interested.

My G1 setup. Rear, Nascar type alloy brake hats machined & drilled to fit the axle flange. Select rotors to suit. 11.75 to stupid large OD and a variety of thicknesses. The rear Calipers I used, I actually do not recall, they are kind of obscure as in Maserati Quatraport of something. They were...

Yup, if you can find the right one. Once I got to thinking the fuel system is different between an NA and Turbo engine the last this you need is either an unreliable or poorly sorted driveline that might not get discovered right away. I do allot of pretty big swaps and one thing I have learned...

Need to look at other displacements and years of the 4D3X series. I do not know diesels well and personally would not add a turbo to a non turbo engine since the injection pump is not designed for it. "Lack of ambient pressure compensation" What I would do is scrounge around and find a later...

As I spent much of the day working on wiring back near the firewall, my wife looked out a living room window, grabbed her camera so she could show me getting into my work.

The fact you have LHD is a good thing, the rubber cover on the off side in British terms, the opposite side of the driver. All the parts can be sourced from a salvage yard except for the pulleys and compressor brackets. Those are engine specific so a bit more scrounging will be needed. Most of...

I would look in the salvage yard for a takeoff factory unit.

The first canter I had was a'96 if I recall. It had a non wastegate turbo with an automatic. This was a box truck. If you started out uphill there were times it never spooled the turbo and could not accelerate to more than 5 or 7 MPH till it leveled a bit. I only drove a non turbo manual trans...

Automatic or manual, that NA engine has no usable power so build light.

I apologize about my comment, I had not directed the pad comment to you, I had seen someone in your thread claim the bigger brakes would not help with fade. I know very well you know what you are doing and know very well your vehicles are well built and sorted. I am working on a dual piston rear...

Adam, Do you have a link to info on what you do for real brake improvements. I have 315s ready to go up front once I commit to 16s+ on this. And my opinion for those concerned with brake fade, get much better pads.

It could be somewhat easy but presuming you are working with a RHD the parts will not be easy to source in the US. The heater core is ambidextrous but the AC is handed. As such used components would be very hard to source in country. If you look at the left side firewall there would be a rubber...

And today I have the PS pump mount in place and lined up nicely. The front of the engine is getting closer to completion.

And to think, yesterday these were in Japan,

Done for now, mostly done to the point I can tension the belt. There are a few tweaks to do and install a dowl pin to lock the arm from rotating. I believe this is stiff enough so it's frequency is out of the natural harmonic range of this drive.