Search results

80km today. Well 26 to Georgia Bore. Slow, but enjoyed today. Varied country, different vegetation, wild flowers and some "sticky" dunes. We started the Canning in the Gibson Desert, passed through some of the Great Sandy Desert and we are now in the Little Sandy Desert (which is not "little"...

Nothing like a desert sunset. :) Cheers, Peter OKA196 motorhome

I suggest that you have insufficient solar/batteries to heat shower water reliably. Using engine surplus heat would work whilst driving or maybe electrical energy from a larger alternator, whilst driving could be OK. Cheers, Peter OKA196 motorhome

63km today. Camped by lunch time at Well 26. Saw 12 other vehicles today, including 5 with Traditional Owner Rangers heading north. Abandoned Well 27. Slate Range. Coloured slate and tektites. Restored Well 26. Camp. Cheers, Peter OKA196 motorhome

107km today. Thring Rock. Well 28 camp site. Cheers, Peter OKA196 motorhome

Start of the southern end of the Canning. Australian Defense Force trying out their 6x6 G-Wagons. Near Well 32. 1,050km to go to the next house, shop or fuel. Camp at Well 31. Cheers, Peter OKA196 motorhome

Gary Junction. Cheers, Peter OKA196 motorhome

The difference between 5/8" and 3/4" dose not sound like much but it is actually a 50% increase in cross sectional area and that makes a big difference to flow rate and pressure drop. There are a few calculators available to plug some numbers into. So while 5/8 might do, increasing flow rate...

5kW is a lot of heat in a small space. I am currently building another expedition rig. I chose the hydronic heater on the basis of how low it could be turned down without cycling on and off. Not that either are an issue, but starting up uses the most power and creates the most noise. My first...

Of course. Then you rely on the general sealing job. That is why that is important to do that well. The difference is you are taking in dust for moments instead of hours and the source is generally much lighter than the stuff you create under the vehicle. And don't follow too close. Cheers...

Yes. The slower you go, the less pressurisation you need. Mine is a non filtered vent that has an "S" bend to keep the rain out. It is permanently open. It works. Just ensure that general sealing is as good as you can get it first. Cheers, Peter OKA196 motorhome

Or use a tank material that is flexible and has no fatigue issues such as rotomoulded High Density Polyethylene. Cheers, Peter OKA196 motorhome

Cheers, Peter OKA196 motorhome

I am using mostly 430W lightweight Sunman panels in our new build. Each with its own Victron controller. Mounting method is critical. https://www.solar4rvs.com.au/sunman-earc-430w-flexible-solar-panel Cheers, Peter OKA196 motorhome

Found my very sophisticated plumbing layout schematic for the new build. :) "ESP" is the diesel heater (with integral pump). "E" is the engine. "Engine" is the 3 way valve for including the engine in the circuit. "Cal" is the calorifier. "Bath" is the bathroom radiator. "House" is the habitat...

You might notice a bleed valve in the top corner of the radiator, next to the outlet fitting in the pic in my first post. This is the highest point in the old circuit. I did put additional bleeds around the circuit, but I doubt they were needed. The new radiators are similar except the other way...

Our Webasto on/off switch is reachable without getting out of bed :) Very important feature....... We don't have the sub zero conditions like some of you guys though. Cheers, Peter OKA196 motorhome

For central heating, I have no thermostats in the system except for the one in the diesel heater itself that cycles it on/off if the glycol reaches top temperature, just diesel heater on/off and radiator fans on/off (plus speed control on the new one). I do open windows to reduce temperature...

I have been running something like what you have in mind for 7 or 8 years. I used a Webasto Thermotop E and a Surejust 30L calorifier with twin coils (one for the diesel heater and one for the engine) https://www.surejust.co.uk/30-litre-horizontal-single-coil-surecal-calorifier. I used 5/8" auto...

I have an OKA which is now 30 years old. It was fitted with a chassis mounted 100L OEM stainless steel water tank. The OKA chassis is a very stiff ladder frame, but the S/S tank cracked on several occasions until I replaced it with a heavy duty HDPE rotational moulded tank of my own manufacture...