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Stock hose isn't long enough to lift the filler up and bring it out to the edge. A new hose might make things better but the stock one also has an angle on the metal portion limiting things a bit as well. Currently scouting the net for a potential better solution...

I had a full tank of gas when I put the bed on and haven't really driven much so I hadn't tried to see how it all worked yet. Glad I didn't wait till the last minute. :p

Hope not, I need to take the rope rail off and see if the angle is good w/o it in the way. If its still off I'll likely need to look into a new neck that doesn't have as much of a bend. The tank itself is multiple inches under the deck so there should be a way.

Well seem to have cleared that issue up. I hit up the parts store for their scanner, it did have the option to read/erase the ABS codes if you went through the menu options. I pulled a code C1073 and then cleared it. However I still had lights on and dinging. When I got home I went ahead and...

No I don't think its security going off, because I can start/drive the truck just fine. I pulled my wheels yesterday, I've got far more pad life left than I expected so definitely nothing related to that (not that I really suspect there was but ya never know) so at least I'm not needing to...

Speedo is fine. I've got an aeroforce gauge and it reported there were no DTC codes (don't know if the ABS codes are stored elsewhere and my gauge can't pull them). The lights are blinking and the chime is dinging, there is no turning off. I'm quite sure I drained the battery deeply...

Cool glad its working for you. At the moment I'm trying to figure out ****** I did to my truck while spooling up the winch under tension. Immediately after my ABS & E brake lights were flashing/dinging and it hasn't stopped. I got my electrical system fully recharged so that one is off the list...

A 120lb box of goodies arrived this weekend, and also tweaked my back carrying it so I had to wait till later in the weekend to install. Went with a titan 12k winch. Its an import but of the reviews I've found out there they have been positive so I opted for it. Mounted and access to control...

Nope it is not. Also I didn't know I could get that chopped down headboard I got prior to chatting about it, saved me the effort of cutting it down and also cost less. Other options as well are either 9" or 12" tall drop sides. There really aren't any great install instructions either. Most...

You'll probably pick up at least 100lb weight savings with the ute deck only (ie bedsides removed) verse your stock truckbed/tailgate if I had to guess. That's just based on my impressions from man handling the two different beds around to swap them out.

If it was a diode on the coil line it could be a tiny one from radio shack (easy to get to) that usually come in multiples so you could just leave some extras in the rig. Yeah I was under the assumption he needed more amps and thus the relay. Del city has some euro style rockers that are...

I went with a custom length, 7.5', fullsize truck model, which are 7' wide. You can adjust the length in ~6" increments (ie how wide each floor extrusion is). I believe the other bed widths are 6' and 6.5' so you could pretty much ask for any width/length combo you want if you give a call...

Look around at all the manufacturers/models to see what may work for you. Off the top of my head: ARB, Engle, Edgestar, Novakool, Waeco, Dometic, Isotherm, etc. Lots of options.

Thanks. We I'd say having a bunch of $$$ in parts and a clunky incomplete shell is more committing than putting a flatbed on. :p I got 2 of those bags in, they look nice. Into the parts pile they go...

Bed is fully wrapped up now (other than an eventual modified bumper). Winch carrier is installed waiting for winch arrival.

Couldn't you just separate everything downstream of the relays and do the cross over on the feed to the relay coil (the trigger of the relay)? Use a SPDT switch and have 1 leg go to only one relay, have the other leg got to both relays but put a diode in the line that goes over to the first...

I'd also think running a single wire back would make the most sense, however don't look at it as what is the maximum a wire can handle you need to look at a reasonable voltage drop in the line so you're not under powering things. So for instance although 18ga can handle the amps you'd loose...

Then they either have a larger battery than 33ah and they regulate it so you can't drain it all the way out or they're lying (or just omitting you'll seriously reduce the lifespan of the battery, which I'd consider lying in this case). Here's a lifecycle chart example:

Also an old post to reply to but 11V is damagingly low* for a deep cycle too assuming you want decent longevity out of it. *Under no load 11V is basically completely depleted, the caveat being no load. The fridge running will temporarily pull down the voltage some thus if under load it...

(Edit just realized this is a relatively old post I replied to). ??? That sounds ridiculously high, is this one of the newer ones or an old one? The new one says use a 15amp fused circuit but there is also an 8amp fuse in the cig plug. Personally I never liked the cig plug power connection, it...