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I bought this basic kit: http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/p-3569-axle-hanger-kit-double-eye-single-axle-trailer.aspx Then I had some spare ¼ steel plate laying around that I cut up and used to help brace the bracket against hitting boulders and other trailer debri....

Very helpful calculator, thank you.

I will make tube fenders that resemble the GenRight fenders.

Made a little headway today. I bolted up the axle and wheels, then I set the body on top. Body isn't bolted down yet. I still need to: - Weld on shock mounts. - Make base platforms that I can build a telescoping rack for the roof top tent. - Fab up some tube fenders. Then take it all down and...

Sent, thanks again.

Thats what I was worried about. I almost ordered 200# each but figured I'd start at 150# and then exchange them for 200# if that didn't work. Can you post a pic of yours and how you mounted the bracketry, I'd appreciate it... Thank you again.

Ordered my gas springs for the lid from www.liftsupportdepot.com tonight. 28 inches extended with 150 pounds of thrust. I ordered two, one for each side. My lid is extremely heavy, I think I over built it and then some. I am hoping the gas springs not only assist in lifting it open but keep it...

Ended up with the GoodYear MTR's 35x12.5 R15... Now to assemble the trailer and start working on the telescoping rack for the roof top tent. . .

Alright, picking up tires tomorrow (Friday) for the trailer. I have narrowed it down to one of the below two: BFG KM2 - Price for 2 mounted $562.00 GoodYear Wrangler Kevlar Mud Terrains - Price for 2 mounted $617.00 Whichever I choose above I will also eventually put them on the Jeep. I have...

I used Duplicolors etching primer to spray down the trailer today. Next step is using some filler primer and then sanding..... . .

The trailer I am rebuilding is the M416 military trailer. These trailers came with a hand brake that I will be reusing..

What I did was ordered the 3,500 axle ¼ wall custom. I used the 6000# outers instead of the 3500# outers to get the bigger bearings. The electric break with the parking break is a perfect setup and easy peasy to install... Also remember if your wheel doesn't fit the hub it is best to use hub...

Thank you for all the above feedback, I appreciate the guidance. I will take all the great points into consideration as I continue to move forward. I didn't think about the weather strip deadening squeaking aside from the other benefits, good call. It will be a few weeks before I can knock out...

I made some good progress today. I welded up the Masterlock pad so I can now secure the inside contents of the trailer. I used some 1¾ 120 wall tubing I had laying around as a handle. Lastly, I welded up the hinges.. All-in-all a pretty good day.. Still much to do.... . . .

Gotcha, thank you Brian90744

Another small victory today, my custom made aluminum Hub Centric Rings came in... Pretty thick and should do the trick.. Thank you US Wheel Adapters Inc.... . .

TOTALLY.... Here's 3 on Ebay for $175.00 Buy It Now option..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Willys-M38A1-M151A2-M416-trailer-axle-NOS-/302071146296?hash=item4654d7e738:g:9-wAAOSwknJX1vjZ&vxp=mtr https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0slTBGBEf0g

Yes your studs hold the load however the gap is NOT a good thing. What you need is what is called a 'hub centric spacer', preferably the aluminum ones, more expensive but hold up much better. The reason for the hub centric spacer is to center the wheel on the axle, without this you could have...

I sold mine for $100.00...... I had a custom 6000# axle made with 4000# outers for the bigger hubs and electric breaks...'New axle pic below..

Finally had time to weld the spring perches onto the axle, check. In pic with the lunette bracket there is a hole in front of the zero fitting. I am guessing that this hole us to be a spot for a zero fitting as well, am I right? Next up is welding the hinges onto the Lid, hoping for some free...