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When we use to have a battery compartment and the sun was on that side of the trailer I measured the inside temp at 102F

1/32" cutoff wheels will make things easier... also great for splitting tac welds cutting the floor panel and aluminum. Sorry don't know your experience with grinders so I'll add...... Be careful not to stress the center of the wheel or you'll have I've seen pcs stuck in the wall 20' away...

Here's a thread on it. https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/2752/cut-solar-charging-in-cold-weather.html For batteries in a vehicle it would be nice to have more than 1 (top of the battery) place to pick up the temp and an insulated box will require cooling in the summer.

I needed 4 MRBF..... didn't want to spend the $$ Max voltage on a 187 is 48VDC. It will work on the output. If your going with a 69V Panasonic panel you'll need a BlueSea A series breaker or Midnight Solar breaker. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/14/29/Circuit_Breakers/A-Series...

The MEGA fuses bolted to the terminals protect the bank(s) from a catastrophic failure. No reason to use a MRBF

I use switching breakers on the input and output. These protect the wire and will disconnect the power so the controller can be removed whithout shutting the system down.

I'll use plastic battery boxes but I drill holes in the bottom of the box.....seen too many batteries submerged in water

Fuse bolted to batt terminal.

If venting for heat/hydrogen isn't nessary then there's no reason to enclose battery(s). I worked on system that have battery rooms with the batteries sitting on shelves or lined up on the floor. Some have rubber/vinyl boots protecting the terminals others don't.

I agree. The weight and size are the big advantages. Efficency also when charging by engine/generator but I've not found it so with solar. Mind you our solar is oversized compared to the loads. I disagree with switching it to another vehicle. When it come time to change there will be new/better...

$3.5k-$4k, Ouch. What items did you drop to get to FLA at $2k-$2.5? Would the FLA system need a sealed vented battery box?

Using it as much as possible will fill wire runs a knock outs quickly. Fore example 2- #10 (30amps) wires in a duplex cable take the same amount of space. In addition to what DaveinDenver says...careful the weight/tension of the wire does not cause screws to back out. I've used 4ga to #10...

Look at systems that bond teak decks to aluminum on boats.

I have 2 pair of the above cutters but I find them to big and the bevel to be too much so they loose the edge easily. These are what I use. http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=art_detail&parentID=1371&groupID=1431&artID=3572

There are quite a few of these around used but watch out for electrolysis where the straps were. Like this one. Always use neoprene (never rubber) on aluminum. Using Sikaflex 291 (it sticks but doesn't bond to aluminum) between the neoprene and the aluminum will prevent electrolysis.

Pg.12 ....doesn't look as easy to program as a ProN https://www.samlex.com/wp-content/uploads/Manual-OC12-90_24-50_24-80_48-40.pdf Maybe?? http://www.piktronik.com/index.php/en-products-battery-chargers/kop1001

I think Samlex make some.

Make sure the tank is built to be mounted the way you want. Be a bad idea to hang a .100" aluminum in bed tank that has downhand welds.

Conservative when new.......don't expect the same as the cable ages......a sharp radii wears faster. Blue Loctite or double nut the cable.

Some inverters are grounded internally. If so the circuits should be grounded. A breaker will protect the wire. To protect people it is best to use a dual function GFCI/AFCI breaker or receptacle...