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Regarding the bucket.... If it contains a 20lb propane tank it requires 2" (round) opening at the top and the extreme bottom. If it contains a 20lb propane tank the mounting of the bucket needs to withstand a force of 300lbs in all directions It needs to have free (no doors with locks) access...

Narrow (pizza cutters) tires and add weight. My F350 is squirley in the snow when in 4x4 and no weight in the back. Once I hook the 5th (2700lb pin weight) it will pull the trailer through 10" of snow.

He ignored the CVWR

No Rinse Shower https://thegearhunt.com/best-no-rinse-body-washes-reviewed/

I'm wondering how the mounts are fastened to the aluminum?

Not sure about the PWM (pulse width..) Yamaha uses now but previous inverter models were pure sine a full RPM and modified sine at lower RPM.

https://www.lifebluebattery.com/rv-boat-low-temperature-lithium-ion-batteries/index.html

I went back and forth with one of the silicon heating manufactures. The location of the thermostat (inside /outside air temp and/or battery temp) was an issue as was the wattage needed at 34F vs 10F.

I was thinking if a disconnect for the Lithium battery and protecting the feed to the Bluesea distribution panel

2 days.......yeah. There's no way to measure internal temp and I didn't want to take any chance on damaging 3x200Ah Victron For heat my thought was a 1/2 gal tank with a 12V silicone heating pad and a 12V circ pump...

Yeah I went through all the senarios. There is no liquid in Lithium so low and slow is the best option. Glycol is the best way to heat the cells. This way each cell could have 40F-59F liquid surrounding it. We'll head out when it is 20F which meant starting the heat (BUT NOT THE SOLAR...

I used to solder anything over 8ga. Later found the solder had melted out of some. If I was doing rework the copper would be brittle close to the solder lug and the wire would be green even if it was cut back 4"-6". I learn later that the insulation on the wire is water permeable...

Maybe fuses/disconnecs aren't shown if not some could be added....and a chassis ground for the buss bar.

These are the wire strippers I use. If I'm stripping 18ga I use the slot for 16ga and so on. On 10ga l make 2-3 cuts in the insulation. https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/standard-wire-stripperscutters/dual-wire-strippercutter-solid-wire

Soldering is a no no....if a crimp is done properly there is no room for solder and no reason to have flux run 2"-3" up into the wire so it keeps corroding the wire for years.

I tried allot of wire crimpers. Found ratcheting double crimp to be too wide or dies don't compress 18-20ga connectors enough. I always have my Kleins if I'm not crimping with then I'm cutting wire. Cutting wire with ratcheting crimpers is time consuming...

The hitch weight on the back of the 1st trailer increases trailer sway. 5th coupling stops sway in the 1st trailer a ball coupling doesn't. If you try double towing 2 ball hitch trailers make sure it's on a deserted section of highway so you're the only one that gets hurt.

For what your welding it won't be pushing the duty cycle of the welder. If you already have 20-30A try running it on that. With hard wire youll need a mixed gas.

I've had capacitors fail and a dump valve fail on 110V compressors. We did a temp fix with screwdriver on the dump valve but when the capacitors failed it was a drive out to re-fill the tires so we could tow. We run two 400C Viair now.

My friend runs a Efoy 140. https://www.efoy-comfort.com/technical-data Efoy parent SFC has an industrail division which is where he bought his. https://www.sfc.com/en/