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Countertop installation and dry-fitting the upper shelf. T

The Partner stoves come with the regulator. I've got mine sitting on a shelf in the shop at the moment. They are built like an (aluminum) tank. The Camp Chef stoves a great, BTW. I'm running a Primus in our current teardrop. There's a lot of wasted space with the Primus. T

The walls are up. Putting the second one up isn't as easy as the first since the bulkhead and headboards need to fit into the dados. (y)? T

She's a huge help. Gives me peace of mind. T

I didn't think the poly would be dry enough, but I pulled it off. But it's good to have a wall up and off the bench. I can start working on the bulkheads and other interior parts. T

Dry fit the wall today just before I gave the floor its third coat of poly. The hatch will seal on the backside of the floor so I needed to make sure I had a 3/8" gap for my 1/2" D-seal. By this time tomorrow it'll be glued and screwed. ? T

I'm using a combination of 1/2" black pipe, followed by a run of flexible steel (to allow me to jig over some stuff) and then rubber to a heater and a cook stove. I've got kind of an odd issue. My Partner stove takes a 27 PSI regulator and the Propex heater needs an 11 WCI regulator that is...

It's not really a problem because the mass of the water retains the ambient temperature –unless the temp stays below 32º. Then it's time to move. That's why we build with wheels. T

That's probably because you mixed too big of a batch or kept it in the container too long. On this build, I mixed up (numerous) 6-ounce batches and as soon as they were stirred, I dumped them on the surface and moved it around with a squeegee. As long as you get it out of the container, you've...

How do you plumb it? Pics? T

I'm not using fiberglass sheets. I'm using fiberglass cloth and impregnating it with epoxy. It seals the wood, glues the fibers together and makes it waterproof. You still need to protect it from UV rays. Here's an overview of how it's done: It's not rocket science. T

I got the foam board installed in the floor and the top and bottom sheaths of 1/4" ply. It's stiff. Here's the build base: And the floor with epoxy slathered on the bottom surface: T(y)

I got the floor framed out today and temporarily joined with gussets. It'll be sheathed with 1/4" plywood, top and bottom. The voids will be filled with foam board. The plywood is for support for the rear bulkhead, battery, water jug and blocking for the heater. That second 1x4" is for...

The second wall is nearly done. Squirting poly today. I might be able to work on the floor this afternoon. T

Doors. I used a jig to ensure the hinges were set at 90º. I removed the faux door and temporarily installed the hinges on the door. Once on I squared up the door in the opening and screwed the hinges to the wall. The hinges will be held in with #10 machine screws and T-nuts. The...

Put some vents in that for sure. Maybe you can scavage some dust off the roadways and keep it cleaner for the rest of us. :ROFLMAO::D(y) If you are sleeping in this, a fan and good screened ventilation is a must. Tony p.s. Un-insulated teardrops have a condensation problem BTW.

Retired criminal investigator. And I disagree about how easy it would be to build that case and sell it to a county or federal prosecutor. It's a civil issue. T

Pavement? Yep. Pavement until it turns into gravel and dirt and finally a two-track. ?

Fraud is an intent crime. Looking at his product, I think he had a dream and got grossly overextended. If he intended this from the beginning it'd be a damn hard element to prove. T

On this new build, I'm going to remove the coupler. T