I've got a section of my cap molding that is bulged out, I need to pull it as well...where did you find replacement moulding? On the old screws I'd use a small sanding/conditioning pad to take them down to flush and clean them up as much as possible then coat those areas with a rust encapsulator...
Getting the spring rate and shocks right in the front is the biggest hurdle in an SFA van conversion, the weight distribution is so different from the trucks that not much of what works on them translates directly to vans. I ended up using a Dodge Ram Super Lift spring (because it had a soft...
Bought a couple sheets of 1/2" birch plywood (to match the counter) and started filling in openings (still have a bunch to do) and got the Sequoia table leg assy attached, I'm pretty happy with how stable this set up is and it's easy to deploy/breakdown when converting back to bed configuration...
Plumbing is just about my least favorite thing to do, it seems that no matter how well I plan it out it still requires 4 additional trips to Lowes for fittings. I'm using crimp on PEX which I'm a huge fan of and used on my motorhome replumb a couple years back. Standard dump valve will be inside...
I don't have any experience with Boulder, but, I did my own SFA on a Duramax Express (build thread link in my signature). It's a lot of work and to get decent travel with the SFA you will have to go with more lift than if you go IFS. If you want lifted/large tires it's a good way to go. If you...
gear noise has always been the hit on the aftermarket cases...Atlas is about the best but when you wind them up to modern hwy speeds I've never heard a quiet one... making a custom divorce mount for an NV241OR would get you a 4 to 1 case that is quiet at 80mph plus.. they are bulletproof, I run...
Yes, mine has a motorized flapper, it's working so I can throttle/bias upper and lower flow; I'm going to do a single large lower discharge duct (just behind/above the wheel tub) and continue with the upper duct that I have (just relocated a bit higher to get it out of my sight line at the...
Caught the plague from the guys at work last week and that slowed me down a bit but over the weekend I got back at it, diesel heater is now installed but still needs fuel pump connection(need to buy some fittings) an wiring. It fits well under the porta-potty stand and still allows room for...
if they were going on 4yrs old they would have had the PET surface coating, I have read that most reported short life with that. Unfortunately the ETFE coated panels don't seem to have been out long enough to make an apples to apples comparison..
rough cut out of the butcher block galley counter top (girlfriend request) and mounting of both bed/booth structures and galley cabinet. Quick fit up of fresh/gray tanks and 700w microwave. I'm also going to put one of the chinese diesel heaters under the porta-potty mount.
I went with a simple...
My hightop roof has a lot of contour so flexibility is very much desirable.
Looking at these panels: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017N7BRX6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A3QUWC2QIV3WZF&psc=1
And this controller...
I was just reading about how best to connect them; I am leaning toward a 4 panel system that is 2S/2P, also agree on some thin backing, I was looking at some thin perforated plastic to isolate/air gap them a bit, still looking at what is available...appreciate the input!
From the bit of research I have done there are some new coatings that extend life considerably over earlier versions (ETFE vs PET) and of course some vendors build better quality stuff. No arguement that they probably won't be quite as efficient but I think lifespan differences from a panel...
I'm moving through my build and want to start laying the ground work for solar on top of my 24" bubble top van, as it is already 10ft tall I don't want ridig panels that would increase that. Due to the size and shape of the available roof area 100w flexible panels (as many as 5) would be a good...
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