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Are you wedded to an old Mercedes Benz? (I can give you a lot of reasons why they are a bad choice.) These folks are worth a call. ADV Mobil | Reserve Your Build | Howell, Michigan

I would also chat with these folks: Mercedes Benz 1428AF, expedition truck conversion | Expedition Portal

I would ask Rob Pickering's opinon. Terry Lee Enterprises, La Junta, CO.

Need to see a diagram. Diverter where the P tank sits and then a new, larger tank remotely? Or merely a drain?

Define "better." Couple of thotz: -- Your specs are way beyond what would ever be needed to cross South America, or Africa, for that matter. 400-600Ah of lead acid would do it all. Lithium has lots of advantages, but it is not required. And, full disclosure, I built an 800Ah lithium battery...

Jeff, FWIW, Nimbl routed the urine line to the grey tank. The logic being that: -- Diluted urine is a lot more palatable than concentrated. (I don't want to think of dealing with a dedicated "Yellow Water" tank.) -- In most cases, you are required to dump grey water into a sanitary sewer...

To your question: -- Dedicated voltage regulator that also senses alternator temperature. -- Special "marine" or 100% duty cycle alternators. Absent these, most of us are better off with a B2B rated not much higher than about 50% of a regular alternator's output. YMMV.

Stud centric wheels usually have beveled, or, in the case of US passenger cars, stamped, moulded holes. The stamped holes act like lock washers. My Kronprins wheels have bevels, but I use them with flat washer lug nuts.

Agreed. Jon and I have "hub centric" hubs/wheels. See the little ears on the hub in Jon's photo. Others are "stud centric", (common on most US passenger cars), in which case you need tapered lug nuts.

That reference is pure gold. (I only question the requirement that the fixed part of a three point rig be at the rear.) That said, many folks are a bit OCD about a "torsion free" mount. For most of us, a spring pillar mount is best as it spreads the weight across all of the frame rails...

YMMV, etc., but I would not spring for the larger alternator until I was sure that I needed it. Be careful and do the wiring right.

It is less than optimal, and will require a couple of long wires, but if you use properly large wires, and wire "diagonally," that is, positive connected to one battery and negative to the second, you can put the second battery wherever you want. The essential thing is that both are same...

Does your truck have a factory tray under the hood for a second battery? You might do worse than to simply buy a matched pair of hybrid/dual purpose batteries and wire them properly in parallel. Done. Don't make it harder than it has to be.

Dual purpose batteries are NOT deep cycle. You really must know your load. As a rule of thumb, averaged, with a lot of Kentucky windage, you can probably charge about 25A an hour from your alternator. Sooooo, 100Ah battery, 50% rule, you need to recharge 50Ah. At 25A per hour, you will need to...

There are four issues here: -- Where do you attach your winch. On this, I pass, as I have no special knowledge. -- How big is your camper/second/auxiliary/house battery? It should, if at all possible, large enough so that you can never run it down. -- How do you charge your camper battery...

Many/most of those items are fairly standard on current expedition campers and are a cut above standard RV gear. I have some of them on our truck. Not too surprising.

Why would you not simply wire the refrigerator to the battery? What is the problem you are trying to solve?

Why would you go to all of this effort? (Oil pressure sensor?) -- Simple ignition controlled relay with override switch, or, better, -- Intelligent relay, like the popular Blue Sea ACR? (Which can also incorporate a manual overrride.) Intelligent relay has the benefit that a charger on your...

OK, we're splitting infinities! ;) The original question was whether he needed to buy something for maintenance. Now, If you want to discuss a serious solar rig ... After a basic power audit:https://cookfb.files.wordpress.com/2016/09/plan-electrical-system.pdf I would use these tools of...

Use what you have - it's paid for. The only trick is to be sure that at least one of your charge sources, solar or shore, can give you a proper absorb stage, at least 30 minutes per 100Ah of battery, at least once a week. That said, what you already have should be more than capable of doing...