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I have a 2005 Silverado 1500 ECSB, with just about 170k miles on. It would be at least 175k by now, but I'm working from home like everybody else lately. I'm the third owner and got the truck at 110k, second was my father in law who got it at 88k (does like 5-8k miles a year), first was an older...

The newest, nicest Ford or Chevy/GMC 1/2 ton you can afford; in whatever flavor butters your biscuit. Just level the truck, a try not to get crazy with wild tires. A mild AT or beefy highway rib, keep your tires as skinny as stock or close to it (275-60 or 65s on 20s, for example).. even better...

Unless you bleed money, everything is a lesson in compromise. I have an extended cab Silverado, dont camp as much as I want to right now, so I put my sleeping platform and whatever in my truckbed when it is needed. It takes half an hour to load my truck, do you need to be faster than that? Cap...

What kit did you go with?

The early 2000s Toyota thing is a bit of confirmation bias IMHO. Yea, they are GREAT trucks. The 4.7 is legendary, the 3.4 is a cockroach, and everything is screwed together pretty well in everything besides a few outlying issues here and there. BUT- they last forever and hold such value...

i hear a LOT of good things about the 6112s. Where is the tire rubbing? I'd be curious to see. I feel like that is a lot of lift for not much bigger tire.

Agree with the above poster, dont do too much. Just level it with spacers if the shocks are in good shape, once they go, you can upgrade to a bilstein or fox coil over setup and some UCAs for more travel and better angles.

I have the sleeves, theyre definitely good insurance. I'd rather carry a spare set of OEM ones than buy the Cognito or whatever aftermarket brand that cost like $600 a pair. Takes only a few minutes to swap out, and you REALLY have to beat on them to break em with the sleeves. They usually...

A while ago I noticed my front brakes dragged/pulled weird and it was that one of the slide pins in the caliper was rusted and seized up. They come right out if you pull em (hard), I cleaned it up best i could and put some wheel bearing grease and a couple drops of gear oil to match the...

Man, I really hope the naysayers are all right. Everyone hates these and they don't sell for ********. Then I can pick one up cheap!

Apparently the Titan swap is "doable" but I've never seen or heard of anything doing it. There are a couple (literally 2) of NAS Y62s in the Nissan subforum who are serious about the platform, but I'd never get into one the way they neutered them for the US. Not worth it IMO.

You're right. I re-checked... its R180 front, R230 rear. Still only a 7" ring gear up front. ROW gets C200 front, R248 rear.

Yup. IFS and IRS still have axles and diffs, theyre just not solid ones. Y61 is the solid axle truck. 2002-2010 Infiniti and 2003-2016 Nissan are Titan based, 2010+ Infiniti and 2017+ Nissan are Y62 Patrol based.

The ROW Y62 and NAS Armada/QX80 have the same frame, suspension, etc; but get a neutered tcase, front, and rear axle assemblies. The NAS one has the R160 and R200 axles IIRC, whereas the ROW one has MUCH beefier 9" and 10" axles, along with the rear locker and all the traction control goodies. I...

This thing is running and driving???? Holy cow what a deal.

Correct. Theyre Suburbans underneath. Can't beat the GMT800s for cheap reliability, practicality and ease of maintenance.

FIFY I remember back when I doing the axle swap on my XJ, how guys out west were going nuts over how cheap we could get the Ford HP60 front ends. I'd rather pay a premium and not deal with all the rust.

The 1500 is great if you want to KISS, at that point I'd recommend a high top camper shell over a RTT or flatbed. If you want a flatbed+camper, go straight to a 2500 or 3500.

I want to pick up a LR3 in a couple months. I had a D1 for 3 years and it was one of my 'dream trucks' as a kid, and I loved and miss it. But for comfort and such, the newer trucks are way way better. If you want to build a wheeler, you definately want an older solid axle truck.