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dwh and I read the CETEK documentation the same way. (See page 20: https://smartercharger.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/D250S-DUAL_EN.pdf) To get the full output (80A, limited by the wiring and size of the relay) of the alternator (without voltage boost) you need the SmartPass. The SmartPass...

If you are getting performance like that, then you should probably go with a relay based system as a B2B isn't going to do anything but get you a slower charge. The D250SA is only going to get you a maximum of 20A; I suspect that your alternator will get you at least 100A, if your batteries need it.

This matches my experience with the two 125A small Bosch alternators on my Chevrolet. There has been, so much viewing-with-alarm about alternator output on this forum, that I decided to "derate" my expectations. ;-) This is absolutely true, as a practical matter, the voltage of a decent...

If you derate the alternators to 200A (because they will never give you 380A, at least not for long enough to worry about), drop the voltage to 14v, and assume 25 feet one way, then a 1/0 AWG cable will give you: 7% drop or 13v at the battery...

If that doesn’t work, contact Stark Power. (Remember, a charged batter is also a battery charger.) I recharged a Stark Power battery that was said to have been so low that the BMS had shut down. Barring total failure somewhere, it should be possible to recover.

Having just ridden a Go Cycle, this subject interests me as well. (https://gocycle.com) For giggles, I once charged a Chevrolet Bolt from my truck and the drain was tremendous. Remember 15A @ 110v is about 150A @ 12v. So an electric bike that wanted a three hour charge would pull 450Ah. That...

The combo of a LiFePO4 battery and a battery to battery charger may be an excellent option for a smaller vehicle like a Cherokee. The B2B makes for easy one stop shopping by providing isolation and voltage correction in one device. Sterling makes a range of products and REDARC makes one that...

I have had two Magnums, one 2800w and one 2000w - both have worked perfectly. I would not be that worried about all-your-eggs-in-one-baskets. As noted above, both have the ability to limit their draw from shore power, a handy feature when using a 15a circuit or a small generator. A tech from...

I'm guessing that this comment is aimed at me. Got it. Your privilege, but it does hurt your credibility a bit. ;-)

Listen to Jon (luthj) - he knows of what he speaks. Listen to the folks who are actually making things work in the real world. Bad idea. You want real, deep cycle batteries to keep your beer cold. You can always use a deep cycle battery to help your starter battery, should you do a poor job of...

Probably means that your alternator is perfect. The voltage is, however, not high enough for a large, deep cycle battery. You will need to raise the voltage to about 14.4v (at 20C), use a B2B (battery to battery charger) or look into lithium batteries for your camper battery. This latter option...

I don't like to be snarky, but given the tone of your comments, not all of which are wrong, it is time for you to post wiring diagrams, product lists, and wiring diagrams of your truck. I'm traveling in mine, using its systems every day. We would all benefit from seeing how you have solved these...

On my last truck I used an intelligent relay and a pair of 1/0 AWG (100mm2) cables. I could crack 150A charge, but, as you well know, only for about thirty minutes. My maximum overnight drain is around 125Ah, so I am only discharging about 20%. I have noted that, even with massive cables, the...

Use this toy and you can size all of your wires. Plug and play as desired: https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html Blue Sea has a simple chart somewhere on their web site. N.B. Check the charging voltage of your Tundra. Some Toyotas do not reach 14v. In this case, an...

To expand on the points in the link above, if you read nothing else, read the Lifeline Technical Manual. You should even read the advertising part. Note carefully the sections on: -- Sizing -- Wiring -- Discharging -- Charging. (Lifeline calls for up to 5C charging, for most of us, that is...

I would chat with Rob Warren of Coastal Climate. He is very were versed on battery issues and, unlike most, actually has a small lab for testing. Nice guy too! http://www.coastalclimatecontrol.com

Have you talked to Rob Pickering of Terry Lee Enterprises? http://www.terryleeenterprises.com

We have, but not for days, but weeks. We did not have problems with ice dams. The exhaust from the Webasto made one long icicle, but we had no ice dams or cold bridges. (OK, we had frost around the cabin door seal, but our door is a bit warped.) Had to keep the cabin heat up to about 70F to...

Each product has different advantages/features. Only you can decide which is best for your purposes. CTEK recommends their product only for lead acid. 20A is not a lot of charge, hence their recommendation of adding the SmartPass, an intelligent relay, to boost the charge rate. Sterling makes...

Because of my Quixotesqe search for battery powered air conditioning, I have had this discussion several times with my Lifeline rep. His points: -- You trade depth of discharge for duty cycles. -- As long as you do not discharge the battery to greater than 100%, you are unlikely to do permeant...