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Took the van for a drive to the counter-top guy...The Gallo speakers with the $20 amp sound AMAZING...Like having $400 headphones on...Stereo with distinct right and left...I had the I-pod with Clapton live from the '70's on and had it as loud as it would go...Loud...Could hear no road...

Test fit and adjust... With wood it should all be pretty quiet...

The grey water tank is being fabricated by a polyethylene tank company...It will fit under the sink and when appropriate, drain through the floor at a legal disposal location...That's the plan anyway...

#18 Last weekend up in B.C. Rain, wind, traffic... (above) Finally, got this out of my house... (above) After three day's of naps, walks, beers, good sandwices and the world's best donuts, it's back to work... The speaker bases are $1.24 each, PVC couplings... (above) Tablesaw cuts then...

I suggested that too...Mike can better explain his reasoning...Mike...???...

The Gallo's will only be wired to the $20 amp...The 'in-dash radio' will have no connection to the Gallo's and the amp...Two separate systems... The audio input for the Gallo system will be a mini-plug or a Bluetooth device...

I did some testing in the shop for positioning and concluded they sound beyond awesome over head and about 8" between each other...!!!... The amp is this one... Mike suggest the amp (I have one too) and told him they are junk...What was junk was the speakers I though were good...Those...

#17 Mornings are usually started with sorting out the shop and creating work space... Today, it looked like this... (above) OK, not like that...Shore power hole, primed... (above) Outside... (above) 10/3 into a really cool inlet... (above) Done out here... (above) Pulled the...

The shelf is attached to the 1/4" molded "fiber' headliner with a bunch of T-nuts on the sides and front...The molded headliner is screwed to the fame at the the sun visors (4 screws), and at the rear of the headliner are push nuts that go into the frontmost ceiling rib...It's more than solid...

That works...I've done a few like that...

I know what I'm being paid, but I'll let Mike address the overall cost if he wants to... PM me if you want to know of my cost...I'm not going to post that info on an open forum...

Yeah, I have the rail saw...Have the 4' and 8' rails...Love it... The vacuum I hear is awesome, but until my Ridgid dies, I'm sticking with what still works... In the Netherlands I used the plunge saw in Festool's tablesaw bench... Again, amazing and pricey...$900+ for the table... One tool...

#16 (above) Before the painting regime restarted, the drawer faces and cabinet doors could be cut...The list...I plowed through a sheet of 1/2" MDF and set the pieces aside... (above) Belt sanded, puttied and awaiting orbital sanding and routering... (above) No, the painting isn't done...

The hardware usually shows wear before the cases do...I've yet to see a drawer 'break'... BTW: Your comments on Alex's Sprinter, the sharp edges stuff, slightly influenced some of the decisions on this one...Only slightly...

Titebond II

Same walnut as the fold over table...

#15 (above) With all of the drawer parts cut out, the box joints cut, everything given a quick 40 grit belt sanding...After that it was fast work to glue, nail, and staple the drawer boxes together... (above) Let them dry for a day before more sanding and routering... (above) The dust...

Bull's Eye brand - Oil base primer...Three coats rolled and brushed on...Puttying and sanding between layers... Sherwin Williams 'Pro Classic' semi-gloss acrylic latex - smooth enamel finish...Three coats...Sanding as needed... Upper cabinet color - #7015 "Repose Grey" Lower cabinet color -...

#13 (above) Time to build drawer boxes...I avoid measuring as much as possible...Instead I prefer to use 'story poles'...Direct transfer of the opening size onto a wood strip...From that I'll get my measurements then make my cut list... (above) Since I use box joints, the plywood for the...

#13 (above) The tabletop was cut where the hinges will go on the tablesaw... (above) The Soss hinges are set deep into the wood...A jig for the router simplifies to morticing process...Even with that, it's slow going, caution and full attention are the reality... I'm using a rolling...