Search results

I've been slacking on posting again....opps. FB and IG make it so easy. I added a crossmember to help support the 5th body mount on the C-pillar. This crossmember will also provide some support for the battery mount, air compressor, air tank, muffler, and tailpipe ( and the driveshaft fits...

Do you know exactly what engine you have? I'm not 100% sure, just working off memory, but I remember there being something tricky about changing the oil pans on versions of the LS engines that have the DOD/AFM type system on the engine. See if this link works, it has something to do with the oil...

You should be able to make the Toyota shifter work with enough time. The truck 6l80 only need PRNDM however. There are other gates but they don't really do anything. The 6l80 is actually pretty compact in length, shorter than a 4l80 for sure, but a bit longer than the 4l60 depending on the...

Something a bit different.... Today I formed the ribs that will hold the bulb seals for upper rear panels. Overall it was pretty easy, it just took some time to find sound the right amount of round to form over....and getting the radius in the right spot. This was just 1/8 x 3/4 flat bar. It...

A bit more this weekend.... Side D welded in. Nothing new with this side. It didn't have any oil can on the rear wall which was nice. Prior to weld cleanup. Rear seam weld.

Cool! This is gonna be a neat project! It will be interesting to see how you like working with the 6L80. They are kinda HUGE. They are about the same height from centerline as most of the others, but they have about an extra 2-4" depth when compared to even a 4L80. Are you going to keep the...

It's starting to feel like a truck.... Side D is all trimmed, fitted, and clamped into place for welding tomorrow. A few details... Panel gaps like this take forever! I have to keep trying to be better. Here was one issue I had to work though. I had a bit of an oil can on the rear...

Bang for the buck I think they will be a good tire. I've watched them work in comps aND was impressed. They aren't a sticky, but they seem to do better than most street compound stuff I see. They where also 40.3 mounted on a rim at 15psi. In the end, I built the trucf to take larger tires on...

I use clecos sometimes. But I don't like having to drill thru both panels sometimes. Good thinking though.

Sticking stuff together with the metal glue gun.... One half the rear wall is welded into place. I used 3/16" holes through the 16 gauge panel material for plug welds with the mig welder. This seems like my favorite size hole for plugs with a mig. On 16th to 16th material the welds lay flat...

One more bite. I was able to weld in the rear floor panel tonight along with finishing the trimming/prep on the passenger rear tub panel. That panel was then clamped into position. I think I need more clamps..... I'm going to sleep on it and give it a good look tomorrow before I weld it in...

What size are you running?

A step forward? I decided the next thing that needed to happen was to finish the custom section on the rear of the tub. I think it is best to go it now without the bed stuff in the way vs later. The short version is that I need to weld in the rear floor panel and rear body panels. The long...

Time for the next thing.... The tank is done now. It went through an overnight 4psi air test process on the tank after a soap bubble test of all the seams along with the fuel pump mount. I found two small pinholes on the soap bubble test. I think it is where had stopped and started on the 1st...

Do they need to fit in a 15" wheel or do you want something larger? I'm guessing you have to have the e-brake caliper from your prior posts?

Good threads never die! I believe that there are a few companies doing overylay style 3-door conversions now. One big difference on the JKU vs J8 is that the J8 doesn't have the B-pillar post behind the door. It is more like a true stretched 2-door profile.

Are you looking for a specific axle in general?

Needs a good home.....

1987-1989 300zx. RAYBESTOS FRC3132 rear left RAYBESTOS FRC3131 rear right They run about $100 each ( ouch ) if you eat the core charge, but are suppose to have a very compact ebrake function that works well.

Another caliper option to look at for rear e-brake applications is the Nissan 300ZX. I am looking at this right now and may offer this as an option.