It's a good platform to start a build especially since you have a full size tow rig. Some people are okay with the surge brakes and pintle, others are not. I would spend some time towing it loaded up and see what camp you're in. I had an M101A2 and did a ball hitch, civilian axle with 12"...
Cool story; military quarter tons are an absolute iconic design and serve as the grandpappy of all adventure trailers. They nonetheless are a bit small for modern sized Jeeps and trucks. Given the opportunity to scratch build something bigger, I would certainly do so.
This post is spot on. I concur with Billiebob regarding width matching your track as well as mirror visibility. The traditional military quarter tons are scaled to flat fenders which are laughably tiny compared to modern Jeeps. They disappear completely behind a pickup truck. While setting...
Your motorcycle carrying notch is a really good idea. It reminds me a little of the motorcycle trailers U-Haul rents. I think I would grab one of those Harbor Freight motorcycle chocks and bolt it down on your front cargo rack when transporting bikes. The notch might come in handy for 8'...
Coleman's is really good. Another go-to online surplus store is Major Surplus out of Southern CA. Every once in a while they will have NATO gas cans at giveaway prices.
At a certain point it's a logical path of least resistance to just use regular trailer hubs and carry a spare. Aside from sharing a spare, rig matching becomes more of an exercise in vanity. I would know, I did it too...
I put a set of these tires on my truck last week. Not a lot of feedback yet except surprisingly quiet and hard to break loose in the rain. I went with non-LT rated to preserve ride quality. Steering/handing seems on par with pretty much every other all terrain tire I have owned over the years.
I would reflexively agree with this but a well known member here, Adam Tolman ran his dandy home built "box rocket" trailer pretty hard for a decade on standard trailer springs and self admitted inferior welding before a hanger gave up. In the photos at least the leaf springs looked none the...
Wow, that's....depressing...
Another good way to find one cheap: wait for the end of Burning Man and buy it from the dirty hippies that don't want to drag it home. Sure they're full of playa dust and questionable DNA samples but hey, the price is right!
Yeah I am a bit of a milsurp geek too. Here's a list of stuff that I have or had and think top notch:
Wool blankets
Navy white cotton medical blankets
Modular Sleep System. I have my 1999 issue 3 piece set and it's still going strong
ECWS thermal undies
NATO gas cans
US water cans
Ammo cans...
It largely depends on condition and desirability of the model. For example this fine specimen is listed for $600 but I am thinking it could be had for much less. I sure wouldn't bat an eye about chopping it up; a clean Shasta or Aristocrat Lo-Liner not so much.
Well, nearly all "free" boat trailers I have seen need wiring, lights, bearings, seals, tires, rust repair, reconfiguring, etc. I guess it really depends on how much sweat equity you want to spend, the actual condition of the trailer and how close it is to what you're aiming for. But yes for...
It's a fine idea and gets you going immediately. If you can weld, you can beef up the chassis a little bit with some strategically placed metal and it will be fine. For more ground clearance you can relocate fenders for taller tires or go up even higher with a spring-over. Obviously utility...
I have thought the same exact thing for a long time. Certain vintage RV parts like jalousie windows, sink fixtures and gravity heaters can even fetch good money from folks doing restorations. The only caution is chassis strength - TTs are usually built assuming the coach provides some torsion...
I believe there is a right way and a wrong way to build truck bed trailers. I understand the hacked up half pickup trailers from a cost/benefit perspective but I really like what you are doing there spending the effort making it a "real" trailer.
I have a vintage civilian Jeep trailer that is 4x6. When installing a new axle I set the centerline 39" from front edge of the box. It tows really stable even on big tires and doesn't seem very sensitive to cargo balance. It does have a 2" receiver at the tongue so I can "tune" tongue length...
Utility type trailers customarily set the axle a little past the middle of the cargo area. The idea is to keep it slightly tongue heavy for sway prevention and stable when unhitched and laden. A sort of "rule of thumb" for general purpose trailers is to place it at the 60/40 mark. Looking at...
Winston tires, that's a blast from the past... When I was a kid they were a go-to place for bargain priced new tires.
I think they went out of business around the late 90s.
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