i believe the older vans have a flat drip rail and the newer have sort of a tear drop where it tapers in the rear. probably other stuff too but that makes the biggest difference in the top as far as fitment goes. Still a stupid deal on that van to build as-is!!!
I guess worst case its a neglected pile of ******** BUT its a 7.3 and a 1 ton chassis so I think for the money, unless its rusty, you couldn't go wrong.
Pick this guy up on your way to Expo East!
I am using the Wave heater in my class B build so price adjusted and then some! ... obviously the plumbing and the quick disconnect will remain part of the unit.
$7500 OBO
Open to offers! Would like to sell by the end of this month! I am moving out of a shop space I have rented for the last 3 years so space will be at a premium back at my house.
just got this dream machine, unfortunately since it saw little use over the past few years the mice have gotten in every nook and cranny... im determined to make this our adventure rig and it was exceptionally clean otherwise!
Cool,
I know a lot of shops just err on the side of caution and I guess we can't blame them for that. These seems pretty straightforward to me though... one question-
Where would the blocks potentially rub the tire?
Where in VA are you? Blocks are bad for axle wrap but Ford among other manufacturers have used them for decades. I just reassembled my 96 F350 and it has factory "lift" blocks in the rear with little arms that stick out for the bump stops. I got my last set of leaf springs from ATS in PA, great...
They seem to bind and seize no matter how you route them...
On both of my square body F350s the passenger cable goes through the double cable clip thing on the frame rail then awkwardly under the front spring hanger (and subsequently chaffes on that hanger) then goes forward of the drivers side...
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