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Hey look at that, nice work! Glad to see my thread helped you out I’ll be following along for the rest of the build!

Nice truck! I guess you won't be building out a utility bed for it now :cry: not that it matters now but maybe will to the new owner, you can re-boot the DP Tuner easily buy holding down the left button while turning the key on if I remember correctly. Good luck with the new truck

For example, here's a typical trash truck in my neighborhood, note the lateral mounted heim joint for the spring... pretty cool, 2nd pic shows the chassis mount side plates that are forward of the spring

Yes that’s 1/2 inch Solid steel spacer Block that I used to make the SF sit at the proper and level height. It is welded to the SF. Good eye!

Next time you pass by a trash truck, tanker truck, cement truck etc. Look at the frame interface, you'll be surprised how often you see this type of design in use on big trucks, it's actually pretty common!

Yes posting all related questions here is fine by me, I went with 1/8th partly because I had a buddy with several pieces of square tubing in that spec that I could incorporate into the frame and to save $$ but also because I could put a lot of heat into it with a mig welder without much worry of...

Not sure how you even begin to calculate all that but you need to remember the weight of the camper and bed are resting on the chassis and the springs are just keeping it clamped down until they have a torsional twist causing them to compress and lift away from the truck. Also there are 4 of the...

I wish I could offer some insight, I have a 2000 CO Ak and Brian has always been there to answer all my questions no matter how silly , so I'm sure he'd be happy to shine a light on things. I'm in suspense now!

Here's a link to the page with the "gold" springs I'm currently using. They are color coded and go from Blue being lighter, Red being Medium and Gold being the stiffest. I've tried the lighter springs also and while they did work they kind of let the camper flop side to side just a bit to much...

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Hi I'm interested in the camper, could you call me at 619-840-0364 Thanks! Jeff

Sounds like an ambitious and worthy project, I’ll be looking forward to watching your progress. I’ve never taken on a project of that scope but I would definitely think hard about whether you want the subframe attached/welded to the camper for several reasons. One being the ability to mockup and...

Good luck with your build, there is some good info in this book and a chapter on different types of torsion free subframes. Build your Own Overland Camper manual (Haynes Manuals) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1785210769/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_45tlGUtf1Ao4N

Thanks! My truck has a payload of 2600 lbs , I’m not sure of an OBS F350 although the biggest difference in the 2 is that the 350 has a solid front axle, mine has a D50. That said my truck handles the weight fine and drives great. If you get a 250 with a D50 I would highly recommend replacing...

Hi can you tell me the interior height please? Thanks

I use color coded Die springs from McMaster Carr, I used the red https://www.mcmaster.com/9584k76(medium/heavy) rate in the rear and blue https://www.mcmaster.com/9573k73 (lighter) towards the front. I am going experiment with a gold https://www.mcmaster.com/9588k448 (stiffer) in place of the...

I just designed and completed a spring / rail on rail subframe for my 97 F250 which runs between a Tool bed and Alaskan camper. There is a build thread in my sig line and the subframe is near the end. Without a doubt a trucks frame flexes the most behind the cab (middle point) not the very rear...

Check out the Powerbuilt Unijack. It’s a Jack and jack stand all in one and is very stable and safe with adjustable axle cradle

I use one of these and it's great but I did replace the jack with a 6 ton bottle jack after the included 3 ton gave out. It's very safe, stable and has an adjustable height mast...

More S. Utah highlight pics! in no particular order