Those wheels are similar. The ones I posted, the center is part of the inner half of the wheel. That would allow the most amount of offset if needed. Not sure about that weight with a D60.
There are a good amount of options for tires that would mount to that wheel. 37" and up and you would...
Gotcha. So I guess that just carries over to the US guys by default then. I'm going to look in to making my own as I mentioned. Maybe some of the US guys could use 20" wheels too. For the price of the 2 piece, 20" military wheels, I think it could be a pretty attractive option plus with the...
So most of you guys with super singles run 17" wheels? Why is that and what tire do you use? I'm considering building some 20" super singles from military 2 piece wheels. Plenty of tire options in the 4000 ish pounds weight rating.
I started looking at 20" options. Plenty of tires in the 37" with a high load rating. Then I see the 20" military 2 piece wheels. I can re center those like I did with the humvee wheels I have currently. Maybe that can work for you? I can draw the centers and have them laser cut...
I went with the hummer wheels for by build at first because I'm not really going anywhere yet but I will be upgrading to 17s at least as tire choice for a 16.5 is very limited and expensive unless you're using surplus.
I'm traditionally anti tech but the way I see it, using the pdm simplifies everything to a degree that I'm ok with it and in the event of a malfunction I can easily jumper vital circuits directly to the battery cable lug on the pdm if needed.
I've been following this thread and wanted to put in some info that I've been working with. I recently rewired the entire cab of my NPR using a PDM, power distribution module, from Hardwire. They offer 10, 15 and 25 circuit PDMs. It's all programmable and solid state. It accepts analog and...
You guys really should just not comment if you can’t contribute. This isn’t that complicated or difficult to achieve so if the guy wants to do it, so be it.
Every time this comes up the answer is something like, trial and error will get you the spring that works best. I'm using these https://www.mcmaster.com/96485K386/ So far they allow similar separation as no spring but keep the subframe from flopping around. I have minimal trail time with them...
Any competent fab shop could set you up with a T or Y to your specs. Aluminum or stainless will be great. I would do a Y if you have space. I have seen a T in a similar setup cause some backup in the filler neck while filling. A large vent hose to the filler location will help with this though.
It's also not always as simple as copying someone else with a different truck, rack, etc... Sometimes you could put a deflector on something but it does absolutely nothing because of the shape of the vehicle forward of the deflector.
I think one of you is looking at on road manners and the other is considering what will happen when you have it crossed up, off road. On road the sway bar will do what you want it to do and that is to prevent the box from flopping around excessively. Off road it will limit the amount of...
Thanks! That's not too bad considering what they do. In my application, Isuzu NPR, they will have to sit flat on the floor in there so the bottom thickness is important. How thick are yours from base to seat surface?
I'd think that frame flexes more because of the absence of the bed and presence of the sway bar. I'd like to see the same test with a normal bed plus with and without the bar.
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