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I thought about it, but the wire model is close to the cardboard, not exact. With the rod under the panel I probably would have had rattles if the panel was just resting on the rod. It might have saved time if I could pull it off....but I couldn't make it work.

Making the skins for the wire frame...... First you get some masking tape. I like the 3M basic stuff for this. It works really well.....sticky but not too sticky. Its light in color that whatever sharpy you have close at hand will show up. Cover the area you want to skin with tape. I...

Stay tuned! There is another thread about it on pirate, in the Willys section, that gets a little bit 'different' traffic.....ie different questions and different kinds of tech....same general info and updates though.

I have a few tricks up my sleeve for making it out of metal.... I removed the cardboard and tape crafts project and used it as a template for a bottom plate... Then I bent the main floor plate in my free press. It seemed to work GREAT. The small bend radius seem to match the Willys floor...

I just got done with arts and crafts class.... That was fun....now to make it out of metal.... Note....it comes out in on piece with the shift lever removed.

I figured I am going to need something to do this.... So I built this last night when I had a few hours in the shop.... It was almost free since I pulled all the metal out of the scrap bin at work. I did have to spend $10 on some small tubing and all thread to make a hinge. And then...

No really, its right under the edge of he dash:elkgrin: I am going to have to build a special 'stick' for sure. The old one I had with the s-bend was close. If I shortened it right as it came out of the tower if would probably work. I will wait till I have the seats in to do the shifter.

Not really much progress, I ran out of cardboard. I started mocking up the new tunnel. I tried a few different shapes for the gas pedal area, this one was the best. I think I am going to have to remove the nasty lip of material on the drivers side near the transmission to make a tunnel like...

Nope, that's a new one. Do they come covered in military colored fabric? :sombrero: Wouldn't a WWII military jeep self destruct if you put Honda seats in it?

These seats didn't feel THAT deep really. It was one of the things I liked about them. Even a seat like the corbeau felt much deeper and tighter. Don't worry, your going to have to crawl over the 'door' in the tub because the seat is going to so low :sombrero: It wasn't exactly easy to get in...

I need some seats! Since I have the MB tub without the storage box and i'm pitching the fuel tank from under the seat I REALLY want to lower the seating position and kick back the seats a bit. Its going to be a bit of a go-cart style seating position, something like this..... I mocked it up...

I have dug flat fenders since I was riding around in them as a teenager. They are timeless and always cool. If your having problems deciding what to build, might as well start with basically the first mainstream 4wd vehicle and go from there :) They are just a simple and raw vehicle...kinda...

Holy cow...there is a transmission and transfer case in my Jeep....no really, its more in than under! I made the new shim for the transmission mount, it is .25" taller than before. It really helped with the clearance between the crossmember and the transfer case, but I could tell it raised...

The body lift thing worked out SWEET. I had to double nut the top to keep the body from shifting side to side, I don't think I could have spun the all thread itself. The nut thing isn't really THAT slow, I needed to go kinda slow to see what and where was going to rub. To go back up I just grab...

Thanks for the links. That advance stuff seem a bit spendy..... new surplus XJ pedal assembly, $40 http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet/the-36487/omix-dsh-ada-CLUTCH-%26-BREAK/Detail These seem to fit the flat fender body really well because the pedals are 'offset' to the left side of the...

MMMMMMmmmmmm....fast? Probably not so much. The 'redneck body lift', as my friend calls it, worked incredibly well for for positioning the tub over the frame in the correct location. It allowed me to lower the body and see what was going to hit, then raise it up and trim it. For like $10 in...

I'm going to try and go basic and simple with the brakes. Sidekick rotors and calipers on all 4 corners with 2psi residual valves on front and rear lines. Then plumb in a proportioning valve for the rear. The master cylinder is still up in the air. I would like to use an XJ pedal pack and...

haha! The carb thing isn't THAT big of an issue. I can always run around with no hood or cut a big hole in the hood for the air cleaner :) I have a few ideas on a somewhat different induction system that I may try, first I need to get the thing together enough to drive around. Then I can mess...

I decided I didn't want to cut the tub so I made a body lift.... Just kidding, this was an easy way to index the tub over the frame while I started trimming out the tunnel. Overall it went pretty good, I still have more work to do. The most problematic area is the firewall over the top of the...

Are wood body lifts booty fab..... I pulled the frame off the table. Engine/transmission/t-case first. Everything came apart pretty easy. A ratchet strap on the rear of the D18 makes the entire mess fairly easy to move around with the hoist. I had to play a little bit of three card monty to...