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The reason you don't usually see fuses on communication lines is they are not getting power directly from a source. There's a circuit driving the line that is inherently power limited, you're looking at a few tens of mW of power. It's basically impossible to burn up a signal wire from the...

Are you suggesting on capacity or lack of a fuse? For reference Victron says <1mA draw, 1A is the smallest ATC/ATO, just sayin'.

There's nothing wrong with overkill but just know that fuse type selection is subject to some engineering discretion. The underlying suggestion for using a class T fuse is based on the very low internal resistance of lithium chemistry which leads to a characteristic that they can source a great...

Going straight to the battery post is fine. As you point out space is the limitation. As you build up more accessories you usually end up with a tiered approach. A few heavy cables on the battery that feed distribution bars or fuse blocks. It's easier to plan for it up front instead of...

FWIW, found the GM document showing how to install the factory Comeup winch. https://comeupusa.com/userfiles/files/download/D00INFZL030.pdf Looks like they use a special MEGA type fuse harness that sits on top of the battery aside the hold down bracket to get power to the winch and connects...

The aux relay box @Verkstad mentions is this: https://www.shopchevyparts.com/chevrolet/2024/colorado/electronics/2024-colorado-accessory-power-distribution-fuse-box-relay-center-under-hood-p-92331103.html It looks like it includes a fuse tap and 60A fuse. So electrically what you've got is...

I found the 2023 Colorado upfitter guide. https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/23Colorado_Electrical_Body_Builder.pdf This is what that fuse box is doing. It's the main distribution for power in the truck.

Everything you say @Verkstad is what I would assume as well. Not knowing GM products I just wasn't sure if all those circuits already lead to sub fuse boxes or what is show *is* the optional aux power box. The easiest solution would be just use the 80A branch if nothing's already on it. That...

That looks like a factory power distribution box. It might help to know your vehicle in case someone else has the same one and can give you first hand information or, even better, diagrams from service manuals. If it's what it appears then it should have a nice, heavy cable supplying it...

Why do you think that is so? There are reasons why what you say is absolutely correct and, if true here, would help explain Martin's experience and potential for a future repeat. Some vehicle OEM wiring is aluminum. Much of the grid is built with aluminum wire. This is done intentionally and...

Glad you figured it out. Nothing wrong with a fuse in the negative. Like I say some accessory harnesses come with them and it's an extra layer to prevent excessive fault current on a negative run like may have happened to you. Some nuisance downsides, like now you have more fuses to check and...

Yes! That's exactly the sort of thing you're looking for, it make sense. I'd guess the way and length of insulation that melted that the cable got hot. Are you sure of the size and loads it carries? One reason this can happen is it's carrying a load you don't expect, too. You know how the...

No, it doesn't necessarily indicate the charger. I did a poor job of explaining. What I'm suggesting is that the voltage drop could increase with load. When you first turn on the DC-DC it's a low draw, just the internal consumption, a few watts perhaps. This is the power the device itself...

recreation.gov is run by Booz-Allen-Hamilton. https://pmags.com/the-scourge-of-rec-dot-gov Who, I'm not sure incidentally, was sued over just where the fees go. https://web.archive.org/web/20230607024751/https://www.tzlegal.com/recreation-gov-fee-investigation/ The whole process is a scam, a...

Try measuring the resistance of the input on the DC-DC, both polarities. If your meter does it I'd also check the input using the diode check function, also both polarities. What you're showing looks odd and what I'm asking is to eliminate that it's the DC-DC. It's possible the DC-DC did...

Regards to made in USA or perhaps just not made in China. There have been such radios in the past but current production isn't really going to be an option. You might get not Chinese made but I'm not sure there's ever been a US-made GMRS/FRS. I'm not sure there's even been a US-made FM mobile...

An alternator will have a continuous rating and a peak or absolute maximum. I don't know yours specifically but typically medium, heavy duty, marine type Denso, Balmar and similar fall around 80°C to 90°C for continuous and might tolerate 105°C or so. For a light duty I would expect 93°C/200°F...

It's not a simple yes/no. You're right that multiple chargers can and often do run in parallel. The problem is coordination. You have multiple control loops running and there's no guarantee they'll operate well together. This is more of a problem you'd have with smart or multi-stage...

Not an influencer but I run a DIY battery box. I had some of the components already so if starting from scratch I might have made a few different choices. It has come together over time as I change things, experiment, etc. Having commercial off-the-shelf devices can be handy with apps and...

This piece of advice needs to be clarified. If you're fusing for a 50A circuit you use a 50A. Fuses are sized based on the current they will hold indefinitely. They will open at some current higher than their rating, which is going to be based on a time-current curve. So the higher above...