10th Generation F-150 Overland build (The Craptor)

[ExplorerTom]

Very nice! Yankee Hill was the first trail I went 4wheeling on. But it was like February and the trail was about 2.5’ deep in snow. It didn’t go well for my Explorer back when it was pretty stock. I parked it and continued on riding with other people. Now I’d be leading the way up the trail.

Awesome ingenuity on the trail fix!

 

[OBS460]

Very nice! Yankee Hill was the first trail I went 4wheeling on. But it was like February and the trail was about 2.5’ deep in snow. It didn’t go well for my Explorer back when it was pretty stock. I parked it and continued on riding with other people. Now I’d be leading the way up the trail.

Awesome ingenuity on the trail fix!

I'd say it's much easier to do in Mid-July haha. I scouted it on my motorcycle first, and had a blast on 2 wheels as well (without the fun of flats)

 

[dbhost]

I wanted to comment on your build as I am doing something similar and I am currently reading your first page so there may be changes.

I have an '04 F150 4x4 Supercab non LS rear end, 5.4 with 3.55 gears that is in the process of having the engine thoroughly tanked and rebuilt top to bottom, front to back. I've had it since it was 2 years old as a lease return from the gas company. It was a supervisors truck so it has the XLT package. But that is about all.

I have it on the Rancho Quicklift 2.5" leveling lift with RS9000 shocks, AirRaid intake, Engo E9000 winch, and SCT tune. So I still have a long way to go. Tires on it are in need of replacement. I have 35x12.5/17 Hercules Trail DIgger MTs, I got rid of the rub by doing a fender trim and bend at the bead, and clipping the corners. Front springs are Moog HD swapped over from the Rancho ones. OEM springs broke... Will be stepping down to 33x12.50/17 BFGoodrich All Terrain TAs. I haven't been happy with tires since my last set of ATs...

Gonna read your entire thread. I want to see how someone does a build on one of these. Not a lot of folks building up half ton trucks. And I really don't want to go with a heavy duty truck as I am trying to keep my wife happy with highway manners as well.

*Update* Just finished reading the thread, and FWIW, I am 100% stealing some of your ideas. Thanks for the thread!

 

[OBS460]

I wanted to comment on your build as I am doing something similar and I am currently reading your first page so there may be changes.

I have an '04 F150 4x4 Supercab non LS rear end, 5.4 with 3.55 gears that is in the process of having the engine thoroughly tanked and rebuilt top to bottom, front to back. I've had it since it was 2 years old as a lease return from the gas company. It was a supervisors truck so it has the XLT package. But that is about all.

I have it on the Rancho Quicklift 2.5" leveling lift with RS9000 shocks, AirRaid intake, Engo E9000 winch, and SCT tune. So I still have a long way to go. Tires on it are in need of replacement. I have 35x12.5/17 Hercules Trail DIgger MTs, I got rid of the rub by doing a fender trim and bend at the bead, and clipping the corners. Front springs are Moog HD swapped over from the Rancho ones. OEM springs broke... Will be stepping down to 33x12.50/17 BFGoodrich All Terrain TAs. I haven't been happy with tires since my last set of ATs...

Gonna read your entire thread. I want to see how someone does a build on one of these. Not a lot of folks building up half ton trucks. And I really don't want to go with a heavy duty truck as I am trying to keep my wife happy with highway manners as well.

*Update* Just finished reading the thread, and FWIW, I am 100% stealing some of your ideas. Thanks for the thread!

I hope you find some of my ideas useful, I too wanted to keep the truck 'livable' in day to day use as that is ultimately it's primary purpose. I came from a 1996 F-250 4x4, and the ride quality improvement makes it much less tiring to drive down the road. For an all around camping rig, it strikes a pretty good balance.

 

[dbhost]

I hope you find some of my ideas useful, I too wanted to keep the truck 'livable' in day to day use as that is ultimately it's primary purpose. I came from a 1996 F-250 4x4, and the ride quality improvement makes it much less tiring to drive down the road. For an all around camping rig, it strikes a pretty good balance.

Mine is an '04 with the 3V 5.4, so power is considerably higher at a factory 300. I am in process of rebuilding now, but not the point...

The features I am most interest in are...

#1. Under bed battery box. How did you source that? Would something like that be rigged for a dual battery setup?
#2. Totally jealous of the contractor cap. Looking to possibly swap out the 122 if I can find a hi top contractor cap. My biggest issue, like you, is making AC work while maintaining some semblance of headroom. I want to be able to sit up in bed...
#3. I also have the Camplux setup, it is actually in Fedex right now on its way. Did you mount it some way or are you setting it up when you get into camp?

My thought is side mounted 10x10' DIY awning to house the kicthen. I may look to doing a 270 degree DIY awning, but some key factors are that off on the side I can tag on my EZ Up sidewalls on 2 walls to enclose the kitchen.

And FWIW, love the 12v fridge, but I am staying with a cooler. I won't be more than my ice durability time considering the food I can carry for my wife and I, so fridge vs cooler, no difference other than maybe not having to deal with block ice...

My biggest problems at this point are funding for the materials, and of course time and energy at my age to get this done.

I wish I were a mess richer, and about 20 years younger.

 

[OBS460]

Mine is an '04 with the 3V 5.4, so power is considerably higher at a factory 300. I am in process of rebuilding now, but not the point...

The features I am most interest in are...

#1. Under bed battery box. How did you source that? Would something like that be rigged for a dual battery setup?
#2. Totally jealous of the contractor cap. Looking to possibly swap out the 122 if I can find a hi top contractor cap. My biggest issue, like you, is making AC work while maintaining some semblance of headroom. I want to be able to sit up in bed...
#3. I also have the Camplux setup, it is actually in Fedex right now on its way. Did you mount it some way or are you setting it up when you get into camp?

My thought is side mounted 10x10' DIY awning to house the kicthen. I may look to doing a 270 degree DIY awning, but some key factors are that off on the side I can tag on my EZ Up sidewalls on 2 walls to enclose the kitchen.

And FWIW, love the 12v fridge, but I am staying with a cooler. I won't be more than my ice durability time considering the food I can carry for my wife and I, so fridge vs cooler, no difference other than maybe not having to deal with block ice...

My biggest problems at this point are funding for the materials, and of course time and energy at my age to get this done.

I wish I were a mess richer, and about 20 years younger.

Yes the 3V does run much better, I recommend a 5 Star tune as they really wake them up. So long as the cam chain tensioners and phasers are in good order, they usually last a long time (I'm a former Ford Master Tech).

The underbody battery box is from an E-350 cab chassis, RV builders sell them on eBay as they usually dont use them. With a little massaging a group 31 Deep Cycle fits.

The side mount A/C is working well for us, I'm debating about cutting the roof off and hinging it. I have a pair of 12V Linear actuators that would lift it with ease, my concern is sealing it up.

I just hang the CampLux off of my awning by the 'kitchen', that way it also reaches the shower tent. Two birds, one stone..

The fridge is expensive, but not having to drain off water or deal with soggy food is wonderful. We use it all the time outside of camping as well.

 

[OBS460]

To power my A/C when off-grid I looked into a larger solar array and lithium batteries, but I couldn't justify the additional cost and weight.

So, in lieu I picked up one of these Sportsman 1000w generators from Tractor Supply on sale for $169. There are a plethora of reviews on YouTube showing they will run 1000-2000 hours with nothing more than simple maintenance. Fully fueled it weighs less than 25lbs, and will power the A/C for 6-8 hours on half a gallon of fuel. A 5 gallon Jerry Can will be more than enough for a week's worth of camping! A Noco flush

mount power port will be installed here soon as well. I did a thorough break in cycle, and will be switching to synthetic oil around 10-15 hours of runtime. I also picked up a portable toolbox and will be making a quiet box for it, as to not disturb the peaceful nature of camping.

 

[dbhost]

Yes the 3V does run much better, I recommend a 5 Star tune as they really wake them up. So long as the cam chain tensioners and phasers are in good order, they usually last a long time (I'm a former Ford Master Tech).

The underbody battery box is from an E-350 cab chassis, RV builders sell them on eBay as they usually dont use them. With a little massaging a group 31 Deep Cycle fits.

The side mount A/C is working well for us, I'm debating about cutting the roof off and hinging it. I have a pair of 12V Linear actuators that would lift it with ease, my concern is sealing it up.

I just hang the CampLux off of my awning by the 'kitchen', that way it also reaches the shower tent. Two birds, one stone..

The fridge is expensive, but not having to drain off water or deal with soggy food is wonderful. We use it all the time outside of camping as well.

Any pointers on the VCT system for the rebuild. I am doing this with my BIL, he's a long time Chevy guy though so the Ford VCT weirdness is throwing us a bit...

I know to stay with Motorcraft on the phasers, chain, tensioners etc... Only internal non OEM part I am planning on is a Melling high volume pump. If the Ford techs I have talked to are right, the stamped steel back plate of the Ford OE pump tends to flex under load dropping oil volume and pressure and I want to fix that...

I am in no way going with a full on radical custom build, but rather just trying to insure capability while maintaining a fairly civilized behavior of the truck. Trying to not scare my wife off of it...

I was somewhat hoping there was a way I could keep the Camplux hooked up, and just kind of swing it out into position. The big thing I want to avoid is taking the gas line on / off / on / off etc... every time I pack up. No big deal disconnecting from the tank, I just want to keep it on the heater to eliminate the potential for gas leakage at the heater. The big tank end fitting tends to being easier to seal up...

You did a shorter platform than I am planning on, but I wonder. Where is your muffler? You seem to have moved it to make room for a water tank. To paraphrase Dr. Phil... How's that working for you? I am thinking of a minimum 19" clearance under the bed to make sure the Aquatainers fit, and the portable toilet fits... Although the toilet is probably going to ride on the hitch haul...

 

[OBS460]

Any pointers on the VCT system for the rebuild. I am doing this with my BIL, he's a long time Chevy guy though so the Ford VCT weirdness is throwing us a bit...

I know to stay with Motorcraft on the phasers, chain, tensioners etc... Only internal non OEM part I am planning on is a Melling high volume pump. If the Ford techs I have talked to are right, the stamped steel back plate of the Ford OE pump tends to flex under load dropping oil volume and pressure and I want to fix that...

I am in no way going with a full on radical custom build, but rather just trying to insure capability while maintaining a fairly civilized behavior of the truck. Trying to not scare my wife off of it...

I was somewhat hoping there was a way I could keep the Camplux hooked up, and just kind of swing it out into position. The big thing I want to avoid is taking the gas line on / off / on / off etc... every time I pack up. No big deal disconnecting from the tank, I just want to keep it on the heater to eliminate the potential for gas leakage at the heater. The big tank end fitting tends to being easier to seal up...

You did a shorter platform than I am planning on, but I wonder. Where is your muffler? You seem to have moved it to make room for a water tank. To paraphrase Dr. Phil... How's that working for you? I am thinking of a minimum 19" clearance under the bed to make sure the Aquatainers fit, and the portable toilet fits... Although the toilet is probably going to ride on the hitch haul...

Honestly, a VCT delete isn't a bad route to go but you will need a tune to compensate for it. You'd lose some power, but the added reliability would be nice. Part of the issue with the VCT is poor oil flow in the heads, so if yours are partially clogged a new kit will still make noise. I find running 0W-20 helps reduce startup rattles as the oil flows out to the phasers much easier.

I looked into a swingout, I may go that route if I rebuild the doors on the topper. Eventually I'd like to do barn style doors and reinforce them enough to hang a jerry can and spare tire off of them. I adapted my heater to a 1lb cylinder fitting. It works great, and you'll run out of water long before you run out of propane.

The muffler is forward of the axle, and the tip comes out in front of the tire. I used a Magnaflow muffler, and interior noise is very modest. Avoid a chambered muffler (Flowmaster, etc)

I have a hitch carrier for my water tanks and toliet currently as well, I didn't want to risk spilling it inside the truck and ruining a trip.. I haven't added a water tank yet, I'm still on the fence as we don't camp THAT often, and sterilizing it/winterizing would become a pain.

 

[dbhost]

Honestly, a VCT delete isn't a bad route to go but you will need a tune to compensate for it. You'd lose some power, but the added reliability would be nice. Part of the issue with the VCT is poor oil flow in the heads, so if yours are partially clogged a new kit will still make noise. I find running 0W-20 helps reduce startup rattles as the oil flows out to the phasers much easier.

I looked into a swingout, I may go that route if I rebuild the doors on the topper. Eventually I'd like to do barn style doors and reinforce them enough to hang a jerry can and spare tire off of them. I adapted my heater to a 1lb cylinder fitting. It works great, and you'll run out of water long before you run out of propane.

The muffler is forward of the axle, and the tip comes out in front of the tire. I used a Magnaflow muffler, and interior noise is very modest. Avoid a chambered muffler (Flowmaster, etc)

I have a hitch carrier for my water tanks and toliet currently as well, I didn't want to risk spilling it inside the truck and ruining a trip.. I haven't added a water tank yet, I'm still on the fence as we don't camp THAT often, and sterilizing it/winterizing would become a pain.

Well as I may have mentioned, the oil change place apparently wasn't always doing their job, so yeah, the rocker valleys are kind of nasty.

I was planning on having the heads tanked. However rumor has it the oil passages in these heads are kind of on the tiny side... Is there anything I should be doing / having done to the heads when they are off to insure the oil passages are 100% clear?

I've considered the phaser delete, and it isn't a power issue I am concerned with so much as a concern for passing the emissions test in my county at license renewal time.

For what it's worth, as heavy as this truck is, with the gears it has, It's never left the line like a shuttle launch or anything like that. Mind you, it's blazingly fast compared to the old CJ-7 I had decades ago, but then again, my high school bicycle was barely slower...

The purpose behind the melling pump is of course to insure more oil gets shoved up into and through the heads, and VCT system in specific.

What's really scary is I remember putting 10w-40 in my old International Scout 2. Not a super powerful rig, but it did its job REALLY well...

Just FWIW, my current generator is a Harbor Freight Tailgator and I REALLY dislike the noise it makes. I have considered the Sportsman 1K inverter generator as it is compact, doesn't use a lot of fuel, and is reportedly almost silent at 50'. I am more than willing to use a long extension cord to run the stuff in the truck. Basically I need to maintain the power pack / house batteries to keep 12V power available in the truck bed to run my CPAP, and I need to run the AC when it gets nasty hot. As in this time of year...

 

[OBS460]

Well as I may have mentioned, the oil change place apparently wasn't always doing their job, so yeah, the rocker valleys are kind of nasty.

I was planning on having the heads tanked. However rumor has it the oil passages in these heads are kind of on the tiny side... Is there anything I should be doing / having done to the heads when they are off to insure the oil passages are 100% clear?

I've considered the phaser delete, and it isn't a power issue I am concerned with so much as a concern for passing the emissions test in my county at license renewal time.

For what it's worth, as heavy as this truck is, with the gears it has, It's never left the line like a shuttle launch or anything like that. Mind you, it's blazingly fast compared to the old CJ-7 I had decades ago, but then again, my high school bicycle was barely slower...

The purpose behind the melling pump is of course to insure more oil gets shoved up into and through the heads, and VCT system in specific.

What's really scary is I remember putting 10w-40 in my old International Scout 2. Not a super powerful rig, but it did its job REALLY well...

Just FWIW, my current generator is a Harbor Freight Tailgator and I REALLY dislike the noise it makes. I have considered the Sportsman 1K inverter generator as it is compact, doesn't use a lot of fuel, and is reportedly almost silent at 50'. I am more than willing to use a long extension cord to run the stuff in the truck. Basically I need to maintain the power pack / house batteries to keep 12V power available in the truck bed to run my CPAP, and I need to run the AC when it gets nasty hot. As in this time of year...

Tanking them should get them clean, as far as emissions I'd talk to someone who's done similar and see if they pass. Luckily for me, it's not a concern in our area.


I think the Sportsman 1000w would suit your needs well, and being a pure sine wave output should be safer for the CPAP's power supply.

 

[dbhost]

Tanking them should get them clean, as far as emissions I'd talk to someone who's done similar and see if they pass. Luckily for me, it's not a concern in our area.


I think the Sportsman 1000w would suit your needs well, and being a pure sine wave output should be safer for the CPAP's power supply.

Just FWIW, I don't run CPAP off the genny itself. I use the genny to power the charging circuit for the battery. Honestly I could probably just throw a cheap solar panel / charge controller on top of the cap and cover the CPAP, and even lights and a fridge. It's when we get to high draw appliances. I.E. air conditioner, that the genny becomes a requirement.

And yes, we were planning on tanking both heads, and the block. Not wanting to do any shortcuts at all. Hence why the rebuild is taking so long. I am trying to aim at a bulletproof build here. I'm not a young guy any more, can't afford a new truck, and want a build I just don't have to worry about.

Oh and on a plus. Using a standard cap, I can use a plate mount for the CB Antenna, the rear doors don't fold back all the way so....

 

[Grassland]

The F150 crew gets larger by the month. I love it.

 

[Todd780]

The F150 crew gets larger by the month. I love it.

You're right. I should probably start dieting and exercising.

 

[CanTony]

Love this build! Been following along since September but haven't commented yet - thanks for doing such a detailed build thread on your truck, it's quite well thought out and well executed. I picked up a 4.6 '03 Supercab FX4 last fall which I daily, camp, and hunt with, so have been super interested in your various mods.

In all my research I haven't seen anyone else in the 10th gen f150 community put so much effort into getting more flex out of their largely stock suspension set up. Have you needed to put longer brake lines on yet?

Drivability is fantastic, and I have gained 2" of overall suspension travel!

Did you have to trim anything in the rear of the truck to gain that 2" travel or was that just from fitting the Fox shocks? Would love to get some extra travel by bolting up something longer.

Ive read reports of angles up to 38* being "acceptable", but I'm going to try to limit it to 30-31* for sake of longevity (knowing full well that I'm drastically shortening their life).

I hope you post up your final configuration once your satisfied with how everything is running

My plan is to add 1" block to the rear, crank the T bars to bring the front up 1" to maintain rake, install some fox 2.0 or Bilstein shocks, and run 255/80/17 tires on the factory alloys. Then play around with my bump and steering stops to get better performance out of the setup.