110 Expedition/camper
- Thread starter MOB993
- Start date
That looks grand! You obviously know how to measure and own a very sharp pencil!
What foam are you covering - seats in front or something in back? Waterproof is ok but can get sweaty sweaty, semi-waterproof better as it can breathe a little and still resists water. Take a tip to a fabric shop and see what bin ends they've got, then decide. You might find a bargain.
What foam are you covering - seats in front or something in back? Waterproof is ok but can get sweaty sweaty, semi-waterproof better as it can breathe a little and still resists water. Take a tip to a fabric shop and see what bin ends they've got, then decide. You might find a bargain.
It wasn't easy that's for sure. I'm no carpenter and last thing I made out of timber was 10yrs ago in school and it was crap. It was a steep learning curve and luckily only involved re cutting two pieces. With a bit of filler and some paint it will look better.
I got foam pieces cut for the bench which will be the mattress/seat foam. I was thinking that fully waterproof material would be a bit sweaty but couldn't be much worse than sleeping on a camping mat in a sleeping bag. Material used for tents or some heavy duty car seat covers was what I had in mind.
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I got foam pieces cut for the bench which will be the mattress/seat foam. I was thinking that fully waterproof material would be a bit sweaty but couldn't be much worse than sleeping on a camping mat in a sleeping bag. Material used for tents or some heavy duty car seat covers was what I had in mind.
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TeriAnn
Explorer
Some pictures..
Hopefully you are not planning on placing much weight on those shelves. Considering the lack of support from the uprights all the forces on your end connections will be shear forces. Your construction would have been much stronger if you have made the shelves the long boards and the uprights the short boards with your top shelves sitting on top of the uprights. You can add strength without having to redo it by adding 2.5cm X 2.5 cm boards at the underside corners using lots of wood glue and 2 wood screws into the uprights. It would not be as strong as if you had used the uprights for weight support but it would be a whole lot stronger than what you currently have.
Of course I'm really curious about what you are going to be placing in front of those shelves to keep everything from falling off whilst you are driving. It has to be something that will not get in your way.
Only the top two shelves need supporting and two 10mm square strips of ply will do the trick.
I will be using sliding doors made from 5 ply run in a groove cut into the top and bottom held shut with simple catches. Better than doors etc..
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I will be using sliding doors made from 5 ply run in a groove cut into the top and bottom held shut with simple catches. Better than doors etc..
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tacr2man
Adventurer
I used the material spec that they use for bus seats , as its breathable, but strong and hard wearing , the pattern is a bit loud but brightens up the interior , the type of foam is critical to getting a good nights sleep, mine is 4 inch thick , also there is a stockinette type bag over the foam before the covers zip on . HTSH
TeriAnn
Explorer
Are you building the final product or are the shelves a design prototype to allow you to define spacing and design needs? A router base takes up more space than you have at the top under the shelves. So the router cuts are usually done before final assembly. Sliding doors that recess into the top just below the next higher shelf seems like a good idea,
When I did my truck I prototyped my furniture with cardboard, tape and a marker pen. And the real refrigerator I was going to use. making mockups really helps you visualize spacings and come up with your best design.
Got my table made up and in. It involved a lot of head scratching and a mock up or two. It is reasonably sturdy and can take a fair amount of weight but I'm not 100% happy with it. It folds away but not as neatly as I had hoped.
Got the holes cut for the sink and the hole for the waste outlet in the sink itself but again it could be better. The plug hole sits 2 or 3 mm above the bottom of the sink so leaves a tiny bit of water in the sink. I will have to find a way to recess the outlet. Got my led lighting so will have to sort some cable to begin the electrical side of the build.
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I was thinking about using upol raptor bedliner inside (maybe even the complete exterior) and was wondering if it would help insulate the roof and sides enough to stop condensation? I know that it's not designed for insulating but would it work or would I have to spray a ridiculous thickness to achieve any insulation.
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I was thinking that with it being a plastic type finish I thought it would be better than bare metal. Will be using aeroboard sheets coved with ply.
What do you think of the bedliner for the outside?? It can be tinted but I'd prefer black anyway. Some nice looking examples out there...
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What do you think of the bedliner for the outside?? It can be tinted but I'd prefer black anyway. Some nice looking examples out there...
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Ray Hyland
Expedition Leader
Chiming in late here. I have spent many nights in the Habitat roof Jeeps, in heat, rain, snow, wind. They use a good, fully waterproof tent, made by Nemo.
The best thing about the Habitat I think is that it sleeps 4 adults easily.
I've been trying to talk Mario at AT Overland into making one for my 110.
Cheers
Ray
The best thing about the Habitat I think is that it sleeps 4 adults easily.
I've been trying to talk Mario at AT Overland into making one for my 110.
Cheers
Ray