'12 Tacoma Eating Cooper ST MAXX???

[mvbeggs]

I've been running Cooper ST MAXX LT235/85R16 for the last 25,000 miles. I also installed ICON Vehicle Dynamics front coil overs with ICON's tubular upper control arms about 15,000 miles ago.

About 6,000 miles ago, the truck developed a significant shimy in the steering wheel from about 57-65 mph. I figured I had a tire out of balance. The shimy dramatically improved when I rotated tires, only to reappear about 1000 miles after the rotation. I noticed the tires were cupped pretty significantly. Off to the mechanic for a realignment. Bad news, the tires are shot and have to be replaced.

The tires have been rotated every 5,000 miles since being installed. The vehicle was realigned by the Toyota dealer after the installation of the coil overs and upper control arms. ICON says the new coil overs and control arms do not require any special alignment and should be aligned to factory specs.

My local mechanic- not Toyota dealership- said the Tacoma has a pretty aggressive toe in specification and is known to wear front tires. He's recommending replacement tires without an aggressive outside lug. Other than this issue, these tires have been great. Relatively quiet on road, handles snow well, and performs well off road. I am thinking the problem is more alignment related than lug pattern. So, is anyone else was having issues with the Tacoma eating front tires with a mildly aggressive lug pattern?

 

[Martyn]

Mark, cupping is usually caused by bad struts or shocks. Alignment issues usually result in uneven ware across the tire, for example worn on the outside rather than the inside. If the problem exhibited itself after you did the Icon instal I would suspect a defect in one or both of the shocks that were installed.

 

[huntsonora]

That SUCKS! Hope you get it figured out

 

[Ryanmb21]

I've never heard of any issues with tire wear so long as the alignment was brought within factory spec. Did you get a printout of your original alignment specs? I would ask to see the alignment specs - with new UCAs the shop should have no problem dialing in the alignment. Also - what PSI you running? Could that be an issue?

 

[mvbeggs]

Mark, cupping is usually caused by bad struts or shocks. Alignment issues usually result in uneven ware across the tire, for example worn on the outside rather than the inside. If the problem exhibited itself after you did the Icon instal I would suspect a defect in one or both of the shocks that were installed.

Martyn, thanks- never thought about shock being bad out of the box. I'll look closer at that issue.

I've never heard of any issues with tire wear so long as the alignment was brought within factory spec. Did you get a printout of your original alignment specs? I would ask to see the alignment specs - with new UCAs the shop should have no problem dialing in the alignment. Also - what PSI you running? Could that be an issue?

After I did the front suspension work I did take a look at the dealership's alignment spec printout. Didn't give it much thought other than to see it was in brought back into spec. Been running 35 psi in the tires around town, 50 psi when pulling the teardrop.

I have a new set of tires ordered (ST MAXX's again) We are going to set the toe in to the least aggressive side of the factory spec. I'll be monitoring the tire wear more closely to see if it continues. I'll also take a look at the coilovers to see if that is the problem.

Thanks for the input.

 

[mvbeggs]

Alignment was the problem

Found the culprit- alignment

"Toe in" was set at 0.62. (factory spec is 0)

I pulled my paperwork from the dealer alignment at 30,379 miles, but the alignment "before" and "after" printout wasn't in there. :-(

Not sure how the alignment could have changed that much in 9,000 miles, but it sure ate the front tires.

 

[Mrknowitall]

I would guess that some of the suspension bushings were tightened on the hoist (at full droop) which will result in slightly higher ride initially. Once things settle a bit, the alignment will change.
I never liked alignments at the stealership- Tech's do things as fast as possible, by the book. Problem with the book is that tolerances are huge. Pay for an alignment at an independent shop. Have them start with dialing in as much caster as they can get to be the same on both sides. set the camber and toe to zero, unless you drive mostly 2-lane roads. Then you can have them put in .5 deg of cross camber.
Make sure your tire pressure is what it needs to be. Your 7" wide rims are a little wider and the truck is way lighter than 235's are usually spec'd for. Use the old chalk line method to find a pressure that works best wear. You shouldn't need to bump up your front tire pressure when hauling/towing.

 

[SSF556]

I have had great luck with Firestone shops...plus they offer for $179 a lifetime alignment. Worth it for lifted vehicles that carrying a lot and see offroad.

 

[austintaco]

I switched to NTB here in Austin, they don't have a lifetime alignment, but they do have a 5 year plan. Firestones and NTB will always vary based on the individual shop, and I have found that you have to take an active role in the alignment, as in, telling them where you would like it to be set. Also, on lifetime alignments or balancing/rotating plans, I like to tip $ the mechanic that did the work. Not much, but enough for lunch or a 6 pack. It goes a long way on getting them to work with you if you are not satisfied or want to try a different setting. Just my experience.

 

[mvbeggs]

Thanks again for everyone's input.