ExpoMike
Well-known member
I bought a Puma but haven't mounted it. Tested it and it seems to work well.
12V Compressor vs HP Air Tanks - Pros & Cons?
- Thread starter NMC_EXP
- Start date
I bought a Puma but haven't mounted it. Tested it and it seems to work well.
Is there a reason not to use an aluminum or steel scuba tank? A 100cuft, 3000psi aluminum tank with valve is under $200 new and can be refilled with air for a couple of bucks. Annual inspections and 5yr hyrdo's are also very reasonable. Just a thought for those wanting to use a tank.
v_man
Explorer
People do use compressed air tanks for on board air .
Some reasons why I'd prefer Co2 : A 3000psi SCUBA tank contains WAY more potential energy than a Co2 tank, something to consider in an accident , rollover , or any situation where the bottle integrity is compromised . (not saying damaging a Co2 is going to be a walk in the park)
Secondly, I'm pretty sure you need to be SCUBA certified before a dive shop will fill your tank
Lastly , the Co2 keeps a constant pressure in the bottle , you get the same CFM flow almost until the bottle is empty. With the compressed air , your pressure is constantly dropping as your fill up tire after tire , making your later fill ups potentially a lot slower than your first fill ups off the bottle ...
...and anecdotally I have heard that a SCUBA bottle will yield less fill ups than similar sized Co2 tank , but I havn't found any numbers on that ...
Some reasons why I'd prefer Co2 : A 3000psi SCUBA tank contains WAY more potential energy than a Co2 tank, something to consider in an accident , rollover , or any situation where the bottle integrity is compromised . (not saying damaging a Co2 is going to be a walk in the park)
Secondly, I'm pretty sure you need to be SCUBA certified before a dive shop will fill your tank
Lastly , the Co2 keeps a constant pressure in the bottle , you get the same CFM flow almost until the bottle is empty. With the compressed air , your pressure is constantly dropping as your fill up tire after tire , making your later fill ups potentially a lot slower than your first fill ups off the bottle ...
...and anecdotally I have heard that a SCUBA bottle will yield less fill ups than similar sized Co2 tank , but I havn't found any numbers on that ...
SoCal Tom
Explorer
A scuba tank is filled with air, a CO2 tank is filled with liquid CO2, so it carries a greater volume at a lower pressure.
Tom
1leglance
2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
I have had Extreme Outback setups on a few vehicles and would not consider buying anything else.
Great company with an amazing family behind the scenes and happy to help you.
With the 4cfm unit and a tank I can till tires blow dust out of the interior, run air tools on short burst and do all this over and over and over.
Plus I have mine mounted on a frame rail so everything is out of sight and out of the way.
Best money I could spend.
Great company with an amazing family behind the scenes and happy to help you.
With the 4cfm unit and a tank I can till tires blow dust out of the interior, run air tools on short burst and do all this over and over and over.
Plus I have mine mounted on a frame rail so everything is out of sight and out of the way.
Best money I could spend.
Skinny
Active member
This is how I understand it which could be wrong so anyone feel free to jump in and correct...
CO2 can only expand so quickly in a given situation so worst case you knocked the valve off the cylinder, the contents can only come unglued so quickly. This means that it won't become a missile and take your head off or become an explosion risk in an accident. What I do believe is that since you have a substance going from liquid to gas pretty quickly, you always run the risk of frost burn or injury if you are standing right above the cylinder when it happens. Now with compressed air, I agree...a lot more potential energy overall and a lot less energy storage since you are keeping gas instead of liquid in the cylinder.
I'm surprised someone hasn't built a portable compressor using one of those inverter sized generators. That would be cool if it could compress air and run 12v accessories/charge batteries. Sorry for the complete hi-jack on that one.
CO2 can only expand so quickly in a given situation so worst case you knocked the valve off the cylinder, the contents can only come unglued so quickly. This means that it won't become a missile and take your head off or become an explosion risk in an accident. What I do believe is that since you have a substance going from liquid to gas pretty quickly, you always run the risk of frost burn or injury if you are standing right above the cylinder when it happens. Now with compressed air, I agree...a lot more potential energy overall and a lot less energy storage since you are keeping gas instead of liquid in the cylinder.
I'm surprised someone hasn't built a portable compressor using one of those inverter sized generators. That would be cool if it could compress air and run 12v accessories/charge batteries. Sorry for the complete hi-jack on that one.
Dr. Cornwallis
Adventurer
Usually my inclination is to go with my original gut feeling, which is usually the more expensive but better option. In this case, I'm going with the ARB onboard air. The power tank seems great for a day trip but for a week long or longer adventure it seems like onboard air is a much better setup and it's really not that much more.
Do it right and do it once. I figure almost anyone buying a power tank is going to eventually buy a compressor too so just save your self the money and just buy a compressor from the get to and be done.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do it right and do it once. I figure almost anyone buying a power tank is going to eventually buy a compressor too so just save your self the money and just buy a compressor from the get to and be done.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ducky's Dad
Explorer
Air compressor test. Found this again thanks to a posting in the sand ladder thread.
http://expeditionportal.com/overland-journal-air-compressor-test/
http://expeditionportal.com/overland-journal-air-compressor-test/
Yarjammer
Wellreadneck
I'm using the Smittybilt CompAir tank and love it. I get about four runs on it per fill up (13->33psi)on my 315/75R16 tires. I get my tank refilled for $17 at the local welding supply shop. I don't mind forking over for refills from time to time after having been "that guy" at the trailhead taking forever. I prefer to use the extra time to restow gear or shoot the breeze with guys babysitting their compressors. I don't air down unless I feel conditions dictate it so I only refill my tank a couple times a year. If you air down as a rule when leaving pavement then I can see how the recurring cost could become inconvenient.
Pros:
Speed
Portability (vs hard mounted compressor)
Upfront cost (closest performing compressor is ARB twin)
Cons:
Size
Finite capacity (I keep a small compressor as a backup)
At the end of the day I would buy a CO2 setup over a quality compressor again. It is just too convenient.
Pros:
Speed
Portability (vs hard mounted compressor)
Upfront cost (closest performing compressor is ARB twin)
Cons:
Size
Finite capacity (I keep a small compressor as a backup)
At the end of the day I would buy a CO2 setup over a quality compressor again. It is just too convenient.
NMC_EXP
Explorer
Air Chuck Question
Separate but related question:
Until a few years ago all tire air chucks I've used worked whether the valve core was or was not installed in the valve stem.
The last two new chucks I've bought will not flow air unless the core is installed in the shim and this is causing me heartburn.
Worked my way through college as a truck stop tire repairman. I sometimes dismount and mount tires on rims at home. If you are trying to seat the beads on a rim the additional flow rate with the core removed is required. I've had to take tires I've mounted on rims at home to a tire shop to get them inflated because of this.
Questions:
(1) Are these air chucks that need a core in place to function a result of some government safety mandate? Several years ago I recall that my employer was running around the shops and labs scrapping full flow air nozzles and replacing them with pathetic versions having low pressure and flow. I was told it was an OSHA mandate.
(2) Are new air chucks which will work without a core in place still available?
Separate but related question:
Until a few years ago all tire air chucks I've used worked whether the valve core was or was not installed in the valve stem.
The last two new chucks I've bought will not flow air unless the core is installed in the shim and this is causing me heartburn.
Worked my way through college as a truck stop tire repairman. I sometimes dismount and mount tires on rims at home. If you are trying to seat the beads on a rim the additional flow rate with the core removed is required. I've had to take tires I've mounted on rims at home to a tire shop to get them inflated because of this.
Questions:
(1) Are these air chucks that need a core in place to function a result of some government safety mandate? Several years ago I recall that my employer was running around the shops and labs scrapping full flow air nozzles and replacing them with pathetic versions having low pressure and flow. I was told it was an OSHA mandate.
(2) Are new air chucks which will work without a core in place still available?
Yarjammer
Wellreadneck
I think Powertank Monster Valves are what guys are using now that want the maximum airflow rates.
http://powertank.com/products/sfID1/15
WMPhoto
Observer
I'll add my 2 cents... I've had a Viair 480 compressor in my JK now for three years. I bought an 10 Gallon alum. tank and installed it where my muffler used to be... I've got a 200 psi cut off switch... The only problem I've ever had with it is blowing a relay once... Easy fix, and just keep a couple of extra's in the tool bag.
Total, I've probably put $300 into it... But, that is the total expense. No refill charges
Total, I've probably put $300 into it... But, that is the total expense. No refill charges
I run an extremeaire 4cfm 12v system. I put a big rig air tank under the tub, between the frame and trans. fits nice and is up hi. About 4.5gals. I used 3/8" push lock nylon tube for the whole plumbing except right at the cylinder output, which I did steel braid to the distribution manifold. The manifold also powers the ARB lockers. I have a quick connect out the front next to the winch fairlead and jumper cable QC's plus one out the back tucked in behind the swing away. I carry a 25' poly coiled hose to connect to. I can run a impact but it is slow. Fills tires quick due to reserve in tank, can fill a 33" from 10psi to 25psi in a minute or two. Love it. I run twin isolated batts too so I can run longer w/o Jeep engine running, plus the dual batts have a 24v QC yoke to quickly adapt a ready welder. I managed to find a NOS stewart-Warner air gauge to match the other Stewart -Warner gauges!!