12V wiring question

[hidesertwheelin]

I'm adding a bunch of 12v outlets to the center console of my Suburban. I'm also planning on installing my CB on the console also. What I am planning on doing is installing a Blue Sea busbar in my console that I will run a power to, and then power the 12v outlets and the cb from the busbar. Will that work? Sorry if this is a dumb question, but wiring is not my strong suite.

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Common-Busbar/dp/B0091VHLW4/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1431527710&sr=8-11&keywords=blue+sea

 

[Airmapper]

That will work, just make sure the circuit, or feed wire, you have powering that busbar can handle the combined load of ALL devices that will be connected to it.

Usually a single 12v outlet is rated for 15 amps, so count 15 amps per 12v outlet, and whatever the CB is (just wire for 15 amps) Fuse the wire feeding the busbar for the combined total and use appropriate gauge wire.

 

[AndrewP]

It will "work" but it isn't the right way to do it. It would be much better practice to run to a fuse panel and from there to the circuits that feed your loads.

The problem with a bus bar is that to protect the wires to the individual outlets, the fuse feeding the whole thing would have to be small enough to protect the smaller wires from the busbar to the load. This would severely limit what your loads could be.

Instead, feed a fuse panel with say 8 ga wire fused at 40 or 50 amps, and run fused individual circuits to your loads, fused appropriately for the wire size. Rather than the bus bar, use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...431533066&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+panel

 

[dwh]

What AndrewP just said.

Bus bars are generally used as a handy place to connect all your negatives after you've connected your positives to a fuse block.

 

[tarditi]

I've used busbars when I had a bunch of accessories and only had a few good places to ground - bus the ground. Power should come from a fuse block - check your draw and make sure your alternator is up to it, too. If you go wild with it, you might approach dual-battery territory.

 

[hidesertwheelin]

Thanks for the info everyone. I ended up using a Blue Sea fuse block.

 

[AndrewP]

Good choice, but it doesn't appear to have power to it?

Now you need a 12volt 8 gauge wire to feed it, that's fused at the battery.

 

[dwh]

Good choice, but it doesn't appear to have power to it?

Now you need a 12volt 8 gauge wire to feed it, that's fused at the battery.

Two. That fuse block also has a negative bus bar built-in.

 

[hidesertwheelin]

Good choice, but it doesn't appear to have power to it?

Now you need a 12volt 8 gauge wire to feed it, that's fused at the battery.

No it doesn't yet, it was on my work bench when I took the picture. I have the 8 gauge wire, does it have to go to the battery or can it go to the dedicated "hot" terminal on my firewall?

 

[hidesertwheelin]

Two. That fuse block also has a negative bus bar built-in.

Do you mean 2 wires or fuses? I can just ground the negative to the body correct? Sorry if it's a stupid question, but I know jack squat about wiring. I'm trying to learn more as I go.

 

[AndrewP]

Best practice, since you'll be running radios on the circuit, is both +12v and ground should go back to the battery. Only the +12v needs to be fused. The fuse is there to protect the wire in the event of a short. You would not want an unfused +12v wire crossing the firewall. ANL fuse, or Maxi fuse or even a Mega fuse would all be good ways to protect your 8ga wiring. I'd likely fuse it around 40-60 amps.

The 8ga will give you room for some future expansion-once you have easy access to interior electric power, you find more things to do with it.

A 2 meter radio on high can easily draw 12-15amps alone. A fridge, maybe 5 amps.

While chassis grounds can be used, they are suboptimal. Plus they are susceptible to dirt, rust, spray, poor connections, paint etc.

 

[hidesertwheelin]

Best practice, since you'll be running radios on the circuit, is both +12v and ground should go back to the battery. Only the +12v needs to be fused. The fuse is there to protect the wire in the event of a short. You would not want an unfused +12v wire crossing the firewall. ANL fuse, or Maxi fuse or even a Mega fuse would all be good ways to protect your 8ga wiring. I'd likely fuse it around 40-60 amps.

The 8ga will give you room for some future expansion-once you have easy access to interior electric power, you find more things to do with it.

A 2 meter radio on high can easily draw 12-15amps alone. A fridge, maybe 5 amps.

While chassis grounds can be used, they are suboptimal. Plus they are susceptible to dirt, rust, spray, poor connections, paint etc.

Thanks for the info. I am also installing a optima battery in the rear of my Suburban that will power the future fridge. The center console is going going to have the 12v outlets, the CB powered at this time. The 12v outlets will be powering my tv's/dvd player for the kids, handheld HAM radio, cell phones, and a tablet. I was planning on running these from the batteries in the engine, but would it be smarter to run them from the battery I am mounting in the rear?

 

[AndrewP]

Thanks for the info. I am also installing a optima battery in the rear of my Suburban that will power the future fridge. The center console is going going to have the 12v outlets, the CB powered at this time. The 12v outlets will be powering my tv's/dvd player for the kids, handheld HAM radio, cell phones, and a tablet. I was planning on running these from the batteries in the engine, but would it be smarter to run them from the battery I am mounting in the rear?

Either will work, but, There is a certain logical sense to separating the jobs of your batteries. Your engine battery handles the engine/lights/winch, and the secondary battery handles the add on stuff like radios, outside lighting and fridges. Lots of good info here on how to do that.

I am not a big fan of interior batteries for a number of reasons, with a Suburban there should be plenty of room under the hood to mount your house battery.

 

[rayra]

yes it would. All the 'entertainment' and non-critical vehicle operating stuff should be hooked to the aux battery and it isolated so your main / starting battery isn't drained by all that stuff.

 

[hidesertwheelin]

Either will work, but, There is a certain logical sense to separating the jobs of your batteries. Your engine battery handles the engine/lights/winch, and the secondary battery handles the add on stuff like radios, outside lighting and fridges. Lots of good info here on how to do that.

I am not a big fan of interior batteries for a number of reasons, with a Suburban there should be plenty of room under the hood to mount your house battery.

I already have dual batteries under the hood. The second battery is for my winch and auxiliary lighting. The battery in the back is in the spare tire well and is for the soon to be fridge.