1947 Bantam T3-C Expedition Trailer

[LakeNorman_FJ40]

About 5 years ago I located this 1947 Bantam T3-C (to replace my 1951 M-100 rust bucket). Originally a southern CA trailer and owned by the same person for the last 38 years. Always stored inside while in CA and NC. Rust is surface only. Frame is perfect. Really lucked out to find one in such good condition!

The PO was a really nice guy. Kinda sentimental about his trailer. Had it since he was 17 years old and bought it from a military auction in CA. Used it behind his Jeep CJ-5 and had installed 15" CJ-5 wheels to match.

This trailer is so nice I hate to modify it, so whatever I do will be reversible. The historical Bantam T3-C guys can breathe a sigh of relief.

Here are some pics:

 

[LakeNorman_FJ40]

So the build begins...and I need this trailer to support camping, surf fishing, family vacations, and even double-duty as a yard/utility trailer.

Will have to turn to someone else to do the welding. Would like to learn to weld myself, but 4 kids and hectic work schedule prevent that from happening now...

Located a small off-road shop outside of Atlanta: Granite Off-Road (contact info = Robert Irwin @ 678-316-6227).

Phase 1 Build:
- fill and patch misc holes & rust spots
- sandblast & prime the tub
- hinged steel lid with rubber seal...gas struts to support it when open
- keep the OEM tailgate set-up
- weld a brace across the inside top of the rear tub (side walls flex slightly on these civilian model Bantams)
- roof rack rails
- cross-bars (attach tents, roof racks, bike mounts, canoe, etc)
- extended tongue length with extra bracing
- jerry can mounts (either rear or front)
- period correct 16" combat rims
- military non-directional tires
- Lock N Roll hitch
- new rear lights
- basic trex wood type floor (to level floor back out & provide tie-down points)
- paint the tub
- spare tire mount
- awning mount (basic manual up/down tubes with pins)
- rear stabilizer
- side table and mounts

Phase 2:
- tongue box
- high-lift mount
- shovel mount
- large water supply tank
- large roof top tent

Here's a mock-up of the extended tongue with 3' of receiver tube:

Total length from tub wall to end of hitch would be ~5'-8" (3' tube extension + 20" original a-frame depth + 12"+ lock n roll hitch). Seems too long to me. Decided to shorten it down to ~5' total length from tub wall.

And here's a 1"x3" tube bolted around the perimeter of the tub:

The tubes will be welded together at the corners and capped. Provides tub perimeter strength and prevents any hacking/welding on the trailer tub.

More progress soon...suggestions welcomed.

 

[Robert Bills]

Best of luck with your '47. If you haven't already, you should register at the Bantam trailer website.

 

[LakeNorman_FJ40]

Thanks Robert. Yes I registered it on the website ~5 years ago when I first got it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[atavuss]

I also have a 47 Bantam (serial #14849). Mine was in the same family its entire life until I got it around 10 years ago. Mine had the original 16" wheels on it with a M38 16" wheel as a spare. I sandblasted the wheels and powder coated them and replaced the 6.00x16 tires with 7.00x16 NDT tires which gives the trailer about 11" of ground clearance at the axle. The tires and wheels don't stick out past the fenders or rub on the inner fenderwells. Mine had two pipe racks that are welded to pieces that fit in the stake pockets, I added a third pipe rack to the middle stake pockets so I can transport a Hobie Pro Angler kayak that is 14' long and weighs 100+ lbs. on the pipe racks. My trailer is used mostly to transport the Hobie around, it will easily follow my 4x4 pickup anywhere off road, I removed the stock Fulton hitch and fabbed a 2" receiver on the front of the trailer to use a multi-axis coupler (Max coupler).
It is not easy finding a 1/4 ton trailer that is not all rotted out or hacked up, congratulations.

 

[LakeNorman_FJ40]

More progress pics from over the weekend...

Tub was sandblasted and the lid frame was mocked-up:

Another view of the lid frame mock-up:

While structurally sound, the lid frame mock-up doesn't lend itself to hinge and latch installation.

So the lid frame was modified:

 

[LakeNorman_FJ40]

And here's a teaser shot...a little bit of Bantam T3-C trailer porn...16" Willys combat rims on new Military NDCC tires:

Paint was simply rattle-can Rustoleum. Wanted wheels to be darker than the tub, but I think I like the color so much it will be the color of the tub too!

 

[vegan_jeeper]

Wow! What color is that??

 

[LakeNorman_FJ40]

Thanks. Rustoleum Antique Bronze semi-gloss - stocked in spray paint section at Lowes.

 

[atavuss]

The wheels look very clean, how did you find them? I never bothered to balance the NDT tires on my trailer with no problems so far, you can really feel the nylon tires thump until they warm up!

 

[LakeNorman_FJ40]

The rims are so clean because they are reproduction combat rims. These were on sale for $150 each + $15 shipping. Found them on e-Bay, but they came from a place called Oconee Off Road www.oconeeoffroad.com here in GA. The rims came pre-primed only requiring a light sanding and then painted with the above mentioned $3.50 rattle can.

The Military bias-ply tires will be a bit bouncy. And they flat-spot if left to sit for too long. But the now heavier trailer weight should help plus once the tires warm up it will all settle down.

Have kept my eyes open for the correct rims over the last few years. I'd found several 16" original wheels (combat and non-combat) for a decent price on several forums and Craigslist. But by the time I contacted the seller, the rims usually were gone or in need of a lot of repair. Had a lead on a set a few weeks ago and an agreement to purchase, but the seller backed out of our deal and sold them to a local guy (so he wouldn't have to mess with shipping).

Military collectors restoring WW2 era Jeeps quickly snatch up used but "original" combat rims. And typically these collectors want nothing to do with reproduction parts. So it's a matter of supply and demand that's driven used combat rims to a price point that's now absurd. After months of searching, I'd often find used "original" combat rims going for $150+ each. But then the wheels have to be shipped at ~$30 each. Once you get the rims, then they need to be sandblasted at a cost of another $30 each. Taking into account these are 60+ years old, there's probably some level of repair, straightening, or new bolts/nuts needed too (even more $). At that point you can be $420+ into a pair of rims and you still end up with a wheel face that at least has some pitting. Sellers don't seem to be able to take this rationale into mind when pricing.

So at $330 it's defintely more money than a basic set of Jeep wheels. But from my estimates still a LOT cheaper than finding and restoring an original pair of combat rims. For me, I really wanted the right period looking wheel on the trailer. Plus, with the taller NDT tires and moving up to a 16" rim (the trailer had incorrect 15" rims and tires on it) I'm gaining an extra 2" of ground clearance to the axles. No plans to replace a perfectly good axle, so I could justify the extra funds on wheels.

Bonus is that should I ever decide to pull all my modifications off the trailer and return it to OEM Bantam specs, the combat rims will only further increase the trailer's resale value to the collector crowd.

 

[LakeNorman_FJ40]

More updates on the trailer's progress...

Lid frame covered in 16 gauge steel:

Hinges installed:

 

[FAW3]

Nice find! I've had my Bantam for a couple of years now and it has been a blast to work on and play with.

Love your "combat wheels"! I switched my old tires out last year for some new NDT and love the look. I run with about 14# air when on light/med loads and it rides fine.

 

[LakeNorman_FJ40]

More photo updates...

Lid latches and handles installed:

Rear struts installed along with a rear crossbar:

Another shot of the inside of the lid and strut mounting:

And a shot of the tub floor and cross-bar:

Speaking of the tub floor, tried to weld up the few tiny pin holes but applying some high strength filler to the floor was much faster, just as strong, and smoothes out the pitting:

Probably going to upgrade to 175# or 200# struts. The 150# ones really only lift after the lid is raised 1/4 the way up, but once past that point they hold the lid up fine. But, add a roof rack or ultimately other things to the top of the lid and it will certainly be under powered.

 

[daninghram]

Nice! What is the closed and open length of your struts?