I have owned this trailer for just over 2 years. I bought it in good condition, and proceeded to restore/mod it since. I would like to say that I have done things right.
I completely removed the tub from the frame. Sanded the whole thing down, used POR-15 marine clean and surface etcher, and then used POR-15 on the inside, and the bottom of the tub. On the outside of the tub, I used Monstaliner, in an olive drab green color to cover and protect it. The fenders were sanded down, and used Duplicolor rattle can bed liner on them. My intent was to have the fenders and inside of the tub professionally bedlined, but have not got that far yet.
With the frame, I completely disassembled the whole thing. While the frame was disassembled, I cut rear tail lights, and front and rear side marker lights into it, as I wanted to keep it looking clean, and did not want to have lights hanging off of it that could be damaged from off-roading. The complete wiring harness has been soldered, covered in shrink tube, and then loomed, and wrapped in electrical tape to make it as waterproof as possible. After cutting in the light holes, I took the entire frame in, and had it completely sandblasted and powder coated in black.
For reassembly, I used all stainless steel fasteners, and Grade 8 hardware where needed on frame stress points. The only original fasteners are the “U” bolts that help hold the tongue to the main frame, and the one very large bolt that holds the safety chain, as they were all in good shape.
When I purchased the trailer just over 2 years ago, the shocks were newer, so I did not replace those. I have gone through, and re-greased the bearings on the stock axle. This is running on the original 16” rims, with Good Year Wrangler tires on them. I also have a mismatched set of 15”X8” 5 on 5.5 rims (both D-window steelies, one white with surface rust, and one black) that I was going to strip and powder coat, and install some 32”-33” all terrain tires on, but never got that far yet. I don’t have tires for the rims, but I will include the rims with the trailer if the buyer wants them.
The only other thing I have done is install a Rotopax mount with one of their black utility packs on the passenger side of the trailer. Trailer still has the OEM parking brake (can’t comment on the functionality of this, as it has never been used), and original landing leg, where as most of these trailers, people have converted it over to a standard front trailer jack. I have “new-old stock” drain plugs that I have purchased for the trailer, as well as the mounting plates that have been sandblasted, primered and painted black which are included, but not installed, as I was waiting to put them in until after I got the inside of the tub bed lined.
I have pictures of the whole process which can be seen in my Photobucket account here:
http://s199.photobucket.com/user/Solless1/library/M416 Trailer
Asking $2,000 OBO.
Email me at solless@gmail.com with any questions or If you're interested.
Thanks,
Eric
I completely removed the tub from the frame. Sanded the whole thing down, used POR-15 marine clean and surface etcher, and then used POR-15 on the inside, and the bottom of the tub. On the outside of the tub, I used Monstaliner, in an olive drab green color to cover and protect it. The fenders were sanded down, and used Duplicolor rattle can bed liner on them. My intent was to have the fenders and inside of the tub professionally bedlined, but have not got that far yet.
With the frame, I completely disassembled the whole thing. While the frame was disassembled, I cut rear tail lights, and front and rear side marker lights into it, as I wanted to keep it looking clean, and did not want to have lights hanging off of it that could be damaged from off-roading. The complete wiring harness has been soldered, covered in shrink tube, and then loomed, and wrapped in electrical tape to make it as waterproof as possible. After cutting in the light holes, I took the entire frame in, and had it completely sandblasted and powder coated in black.
For reassembly, I used all stainless steel fasteners, and Grade 8 hardware where needed on frame stress points. The only original fasteners are the “U” bolts that help hold the tongue to the main frame, and the one very large bolt that holds the safety chain, as they were all in good shape.
When I purchased the trailer just over 2 years ago, the shocks were newer, so I did not replace those. I have gone through, and re-greased the bearings on the stock axle. This is running on the original 16” rims, with Good Year Wrangler tires on them. I also have a mismatched set of 15”X8” 5 on 5.5 rims (both D-window steelies, one white with surface rust, and one black) that I was going to strip and powder coat, and install some 32”-33” all terrain tires on, but never got that far yet. I don’t have tires for the rims, but I will include the rims with the trailer if the buyer wants them.
The only other thing I have done is install a Rotopax mount with one of their black utility packs on the passenger side of the trailer. Trailer still has the OEM parking brake (can’t comment on the functionality of this, as it has never been used), and original landing leg, where as most of these trailers, people have converted it over to a standard front trailer jack. I have “new-old stock” drain plugs that I have purchased for the trailer, as well as the mounting plates that have been sandblasted, primered and painted black which are included, but not installed, as I was waiting to put them in until after I got the inside of the tub bed lined.
I have pictures of the whole process which can be seen in my Photobucket account here:
http://s199.photobucket.com/user/Solless1/library/M416 Trailer
Asking $2,000 OBO.
Email me at solless@gmail.com with any questions or If you're interested.
Thanks,
Eric