1971 Series Land Rover??

junkyddog11

Oil Soaked Filter
It's just the opposite around here. Hard to find much new that isn't huge money. Although panels are relatively easy to replace I can't agree that they are easy to make or cost effective to do so......other than perhaps some of the bulkhead parts.
Mechanical parts are easy and plentiful. Given the choice I'd rather rebuild mechanics/hydraulics than body parts.
 

aka rover

Adventurer
I look at every Series differently, If it is in original paint and the body is beat and has character then i leave them alone and just get the mechanics in order. If its been repainted and previouse body work I normally clean it up and respray. As most repaints just dont have that original look of history that only a OG paint job can have.

Congrates on your new rover and enjoy it and build it the way you want, I like to see these old rigs get put back on the road rather than part them out, one of the cool things about rovers is theres one for every budget.

Ed
 

4Rescue

Expedition Leader
So did you buy it??? I couldn't find where you said if you did or not. If so congrats on the new project. This thread has been really interesting because of the widely varrying opinion on the value of the truck. Most interesting thig to me is that were I to be looking for an old Rover, these are certainly people who's opinion I would consider very seriously due to their personl experiences in buying/building just such a truck. It's interesting to see one knowledgable person say "2500's a fair price..." and then AlaskaMike says "Zero value...". That's a pretty big swing in the value right there aye. I have ZERO knowledge of what this should go for as I'm not real familliar with the vintage Rover market and what it'll bear, BUT here's how I look at it. From what I've seen, as a Series Rover, if it's running, mostly period correct-completely numbers matching/stock original, the 4wd works and it's not a swiss cheese nightmare in terms of rust then I'd think it'd be worth at least $1000-1500. If it were a more common domestic 4wd then I'd say 500 (a few mechanic buddies of mine all say" if it's a running working 4wd it's worth $500 automaticly"), but it's a pretty "rare" truck for the US overall compared to ALOT of other trucks out there(not just a domestic 4wd truck/suv) so the price is gonna hold up aye. I will say that while I can't see it up close and I wasn't there obviously to tap on the frame and go over it myself, it doesn't LOOK to be in as bad a shape as I thought it would when I saw the age and where it was from... the NE (and other places) should be brought up on charges of cruelty to vehicles for using salt on the roads. HAHAHA

Anyway, if you DID buy it, congrats and good luck with the new project. I'll look forward to seeing what you get into with it and what you find once you own it (cause we've all owned a vehicle that was great untill the minute you handed over the money and drove it away right??? It can't be just me right??? ;) ) If not well tehn I hope you find the truck you're looking for sooner then later aye. I find it funny, for me, when I'm looking to buy X, I'll have seen all sorts of X all over the place for great prices and thought OK, I'm gonna buy that now... SO when the time comes adn I'm standing there cash in hand now suddenly there is none of X to be found and what few there might be, are exorbantly priced. Almost makes you paraniod thinking that someone's been watching you waiting to corner the market and make a killing off you HAAHAHAHAHA ... Now where did I put my foil hat???

Cheers

Dave
 
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Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
It's interesting to see one knowledgable person say "2500's a fair price..." and then AlaskaMike says "Zero value...". That's a pretty big swing in the value right there aye.
I never said zero value. That was Red90.

I was thinking the asking price was high for the vehicle, and that it would be better suited for a parts rig than a restoration project. If you saw how much Rover parts cost (especially the IIA variety), you could see the financial sense in that statement. However, financial sense rarely plays into these decisions.

The OP's idea of surface rust may likely be more serious cancer, since these rigs tend to rust inside out. For instance, that bulkhead would be a prime area of concern for me. Unlike Jeeps and other vehicles that have body tubs welded together, there is much more bolting-together on a Series Rover. The way the vehicle is constructed, the bulkhead plays a central role in securing the front body parts of the vehicle. The door hinge area in the picture with a hole is a structural part of the bulkhead, that connects to the frame (one of 2 points). Another area of concern for me would be the upper bulkhead- especially the channel the windshield sits in. The standard footwell rot always is a player. Nothing I saw couldn't be repaired, but the repair peices can start adding up after a while. On my bulkhead, I started on a set of footwells, then started noticing other significant cancer and the repair pieces started to add up. I eventually dropped back 5 yeards, punted, and had Pangolin supply me with a repaired and galvanized IIA bulkhead. It was more expensive in the long run, but I have a better feeling about the soundness of the bulkhead.

Again, we're talking about a 40+ year old vehicle. Parts wear out and should be replaced, and farm trucks don't always get that sort of care. Like any vehicle without any real value other than transportation or utility, they reach a certain service life, and then they're slowly allowed to decay. With the drought of parts once Land Rover left the US in the 70s, it was difficult to maintain these rigs even as well as their US counterparts, allowing more of them to fall into disrepair. The longer you let something rust, the worse it gets ("rust never sleeps").

All that said, I would consider a IIA to have more value than a III, and be more worth saving. I was just pointing out that the price is much higher than it initially appears when undertaking such a project, and that some of those $10-20K rigs are very reasonable when you consider the money that went into them during a rebuild. If I had the loose pocket change, I'd buy Mercedesrover's 109 in a heartbeat, because I know it's worth it.
 

Red90

Adventurer
I never said zero value. That was Red90.

No I did not say that. I said "Worth $500 to $1000 based on what I see. Could be less, but you need to really check for rust. If the rust is bad, there is zero value." I have no idea if the rust is bad or not.

The vehicle in question needs to be carefully inspected by someone that knows where to look. At that point a fair value can be determined.
 

rat patrol

Adventurer
$2500 may seem fair but you seriously need to check the builk-head and frame for rust/cancer....based soley on the pics on the first page, there is rust (cancer) in those two areas which are not cheap or easy fixes.
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
No I did not say that. I said "Worth $500 to $1000 based on what I see. Could be less, but you need to really check for rust. If the rust is bad, there is zero value." I have no idea if the rust is bad or not.
Wow. I just did the same thing to you. Sorry about that.

I love the metal dash of a Series II/IIA, so I put a little more value in them- which is why I jumped when Ike said he had a Series IIA dash for me.

"Rover Fever" is too easy to catch, and can be very expensive to get over if you get an extreme case. Mine is darn-near terminal.
 

4Rescue

Expedition Leader
??? I'm confused... I could have sworn I saw a post from You Mike that said "zero value" so sorry... I still think it's interesting to see the varriance in opinion.
Edit: Aha... RRC95 posted something that alluded to you having called it "zero value" that was it. Oh well, hope the OP enjoy's his new project aye.
 

junkyddog11

Oil Soaked Filter
The panels come out of the UK. Cheap, quick and easy to source.

Forming the aluminum panels is simple and cheap, just time consuming.

I'm quite familiar with buying body parts from the UK and have not found them (the ones I need the most as in front wings and rear tub sides) either cheap, or easy to source. I'd be happy to be schooled on this.
I have a really well equipped shop and will say that forming a front outer wing panel would be neither simple not cheap as in my world time is money and it certainly would be time consuming.
 

n_maher

Observer
With that bulkhead I'd have walked. There's just way too much potential for an expensive and time-intensive repair on that one part. Someday I'll get to talk to Matt about Rover parts...
 
Looking at the rust in the pictures, you have more than surface rust there. I'd wager the bulkhead is more or less rust atoms holding hands. The frames usually rust inside out, so some careful examination (tapping) is required. Check the bottoms of the door frames, because they may be rusted out as well. It all boils down to what you want the Rover to be in the long run. If you're thinking resto, I would look elsewhere. If you're thinking semi-cheap, funky old truck, that might be a sound candidate.

The advice I got (and didn't take) was to buy the best Series Land Rover I could afford. I paid $500 for a non-runner Series III, which had a rusted out frame, bulkhead, and breakfast. I started with a budget, quickly blew through that twice over, and still only have a pile of Land Rover parts. Every time I started a portion of the project, I found something else wrong that required another large monetary investment. If I had spent the same amount on a running, restored/upgraded Series up-front, I would be driving around in a very safe and sound Land Rover now. The big parts are expensive, but the small parts are what kills you on a neglected Rover. If I had only known then what I know now...

You might ask the same question on the Rovers North board. Who knows? You might even get a lead on a better Rover for less money, or at least have a very clear idea of what it will take to make it suit your needs/wants.


I have to second him. I made a very expensive mistake with my Scout II. I knew it needed a complete restoration, but it didn't just cost me $11,500; it also cost me nearly three years (STILL NOT DONE!) and banning from two Scout forums over this. And I have no group of Scouters I can hang with for advice and repairs. I'm completely on my own in Texas. This fight involved the whole state. My advice to you is this:

Do not bother, just keep looking and look for one that is restored or is in much better shape with very, I mean VERY minor rust issues, with two exceptions - you can do the restoration yourself and you want to watch your new LR being resurrected from nothing to a beautiful vehicle, OR you plan on having a famous or knowledgeable LR shop do the restoration with a PROVEN track record. Do not do a business deal with a guy out of a garage behind the house who has a vehicle, and he wants to do the restoration for you. What I SHOULD have done was bought one ready to go. I bought my Jeep the right way, and my Jeeping days took off in a hell of a way! The day I bought it, I got to drive it. I didn't have to wait, wondering how many months it would be before I could drive it.

Never again. The guy I'm talking about ended up rarely putting photos up on the build thread and got into fights online with guys who questioned his honesty and his work. I got into a fight with him over the delays in progress. Next time, I'm taking my Scout II or Jeep to a restorer. It'll be a lot more money, but it'll get DONE. AND there will be no build thread on it, until AFTER it's completely done. I will not let anyone know where I take it to, precisely because I want everyone to keep their noses out of our business until after it's done.

Think about this REAL GOOD. Being that I don't have shop skills, I'd pass this one up for one like Maher's IIA. However, that will probably cost me 10 years' worth of kinky acts with several people at once to pay for it. :snorkel:
 

gambrinus

Observer
$2500 is fine... if the frame is o.k. Bulkhead needs some repair.. big deal. Feet repair sections are available for not too much $$ So for a total of under $3k with repairs, he has an original, decent condition late IIA to tool around in. Not a bad score in my book. I'd clean it up, and drive it with a big smile on my face.

RW
 

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