Dr. Marneaus
Station Wagoneer
Busy weekend, but things are coming together.
This is the first fabrication project i have ever worked on, and am being guided by a friend. I've probably done about 75% of the welds, a ton of the cutting, both with saw and plasma, etc. The welds are ugly, but i have been assured they should be plenty strong.
I decided to keep it simple, and go with a static rack, not an adjustable height. I know this offers some drawbacks, but given the type of wheeling that I do and the fact that we still arent 100% sure the RTT idea is going to be right for us, i decided on simplicity and low cost.
We measured up for the floor of the tent to be right about 6'2" off the ground. This should be ideal for the annex, with several inches of wiggle room either up or down. The main disadvantage here is having a 200 pound tent 6' up in the air. If I'm not mistaken, this puts the tent height at 32" above the lip of the trailer. I will definitely be testing it out before taking it anywhere crazy. But i believe with proper loading (keeping a good bit of tongue weight) it should be plenty stable.
At any given time its being towed it will be loaded with at least 300-400 lbs of crap....10 gallons of water, 5-10 gallons of gas, spare wheel/tire, RTIC cooler full of food, a second cooler full of beer, battery, tongue box, chuck box full of stove/kitchen gear, Propane tank, fire wood, yadda yadda. I may even eventually have the water tank mounted under the trailer, further lowering the COG.
Anyway. 2" angle iron for corner brackets, 1 1/2" square tube for everything else, and then some plate gussets. Even just clamped in place its SOLID. Rocks the whole trailer when you try to move it. I have zero concern about the stability of the rack.
Also, the front and back corners were left high in order to provide a bit of a guard for the tent. I'm not sure what we will do for the final height, we left them long so they could go as high as the tent when closed, or we can lower them a bit. Either way, all we have left to do is run the 2 cross bars for the tent to mount to, then run the 2 end "loop" cross bars and cut to the right height. And that's all she wrote!
The 10* inward lean is nice thus far because it keeps the upper bar away from my head and whatnot when reaching in and lifting bins or gear out of the trailer.
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
This is the first fabrication project i have ever worked on, and am being guided by a friend. I've probably done about 75% of the welds, a ton of the cutting, both with saw and plasma, etc. The welds are ugly, but i have been assured they should be plenty strong.
I decided to keep it simple, and go with a static rack, not an adjustable height. I know this offers some drawbacks, but given the type of wheeling that I do and the fact that we still arent 100% sure the RTT idea is going to be right for us, i decided on simplicity and low cost.
We measured up for the floor of the tent to be right about 6'2" off the ground. This should be ideal for the annex, with several inches of wiggle room either up or down. The main disadvantage here is having a 200 pound tent 6' up in the air. If I'm not mistaken, this puts the tent height at 32" above the lip of the trailer. I will definitely be testing it out before taking it anywhere crazy. But i believe with proper loading (keeping a good bit of tongue weight) it should be plenty stable.
At any given time its being towed it will be loaded with at least 300-400 lbs of crap....10 gallons of water, 5-10 gallons of gas, spare wheel/tire, RTIC cooler full of food, a second cooler full of beer, battery, tongue box, chuck box full of stove/kitchen gear, Propane tank, fire wood, yadda yadda. I may even eventually have the water tank mounted under the trailer, further lowering the COG.
Anyway. 2" angle iron for corner brackets, 1 1/2" square tube for everything else, and then some plate gussets. Even just clamped in place its SOLID. Rocks the whole trailer when you try to move it. I have zero concern about the stability of the rack.
Also, the front and back corners were left high in order to provide a bit of a guard for the tent. I'm not sure what we will do for the final height, we left them long so they could go as high as the tent when closed, or we can lower them a bit. Either way, all we have left to do is run the 2 cross bars for the tent to mount to, then run the 2 end "loop" cross bars and cut to the right height. And that's all she wrote!
The 10* inward lean is nice thus far because it keeps the upper bar away from my head and whatnot when reaching in and lifting bins or gear out of the trailer.
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr