I agree.....even if they just stave off branches ....... would be worth it.
Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2
1976 Scout Traveler, Ultimate Expedition Build
- Thread starter rube bonet
- Start date
I agree.....even if they just stave off branches ....... would be worth it.
Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2
rube bonet
Adventurer
Thanks for all the input, turns out (once again), my gut instinct is the opposite of most people.
I am worried about the cartoonish thing, the final piece will definitely have a tighter radius. But I still think the arb bumper in the above pic (and mine) would look better without the light guards, unfortunately there is no doubt it would be a lot more functional with the light guards, especially for overgrown trails.
Average elk in Az is between 500-800 lbs, and up to 1200 lbs, plus the deer and the antelope, and open range cows...
I've been looking at it an unhealthy amount now (it is right next to my beer fridge), I still prefer it without the "eyebrows". I think the center section of the bumper and the beefy nature of the Scout fenders would leave the vehicle operational in a fairly big "event". On an older toyota I had, I was extremely thankful for the light guards I had on that truck many times. It saved the lights, but the fenders were still dented and scarred from tree branches.
I actually like it both, I'm really glad its not my quandary
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I am worried about the cartoonish thing, the final piece will definitely have a tighter radius. But I still think the arb bumper in the above pic (and mine) would look better without the light guards, unfortunately there is no doubt it would be a lot more functional with the light guards, especially for overgrown trails.
Average elk in Az is between 500-800 lbs, and up to 1200 lbs, plus the deer and the antelope, and open range cows...
I've been looking at it an unhealthy amount now (it is right next to my beer fridge), I still prefer it without the "eyebrows". I think the center section of the bumper and the beefy nature of the Scout fenders would leave the vehicle operational in a fairly big "event". On an older toyota I had, I was extremely thankful for the light guards I had on that truck many times. It saved the lights, but the fenders were still dented and scarred from tree branches.
I actually like it both, I'm really glad its not my quandary
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Clutch
<---Pass
I say your gut instinct has served you well thus far....that thing is **********' bad ********!
Yeah just my personal opinion, never did like the look of the "surprised cartoon" tube bumpers. Just so goofy looking, takes the aggressive look out of it. If you were
going to ask it how it was dong today, its' response would be...."oh just FABULOUS!!! Thhhanks fur askin'!"
My ARB has saved my fender corners and headlights many of time, while I do like the look of it without, however I do think the brows are needed, just less radius.
I hate to say anything, because the build is so fricken bad ********, perhaps the center portion of the bullbar needed to be a little higher (?) like at the bottom of the hood instead of the top of the grill, so the arch of the brows wouldn't have to have too much upwards bend to them.
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BradtheWelder
New member
My next project is going to have a removable grill/headlight guard. Around my area deer aren't normally hit by cars until the "rut". They start to wonder around this time of year and cross roads more frequently but most of the year they seem to stay off the roads. So most of the year it won't be on the bumper.
To me it seems like the winch is sitting kinda high. Why don't you put it lower in the bumper? Just a thought.
To me it seems like the winch is sitting kinda high. Why don't you put it lower in the bumper? Just a thought.
Clutch
<---Pass
I like where it is, to me it improves the approach angle. Easy to get to the engagement lever as well.
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VanIsle_Greg
I think I need a bigger truck!
I personally really like the bumper ends around the lights. I think they look aggressive and functional all at the same time...and not cartoony at all. As others have stated, go with your gut. If you put them on, you can always hack them off. If you leave them off, you can always add them after!
Win Win!!
Win Win!!
rube bonet
Adventurer
Actually, it is at the exact approach angle that the leaf springs allow, any lower and it would have reduced the approach. With the smaller tires and leafs springs, every bit gained is going to be huge. I also set the wings back to keep clearance at the tires to the max, but still keep some protection. It also set the folds on the backside of the winch plate in line with the dead spot in the openings of the grill, hopefully keeping airflow to the max possible.
I too thought about doing something removable, but Murphy's law would surely strike back...
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Clutch
<---Pass
Cool
yeah my ARB has crappy approach angle because of the winch location point. They stick out a bit too.
Scoutpappa
New member
As another Scout owner and in conjunction with jeepeater I would say leave the headlight protection. It's not that the truck can't "take it", it's more to the point that some parts are becoming harder and harder to find. Protect all that you can and no, it's not cartoonish. Just my .02.
Comanche Scott
Expedition Leader
X2, that is something to really consider.
As another Scout owner (800), the reproduction market is nearly zilch.
What would it look like with just two horizontal tubes through the center piece, and tied together at the ends with an end plate?
On a totally different note, I'm very interested in how you handle the front driveshaft to transmission pan clearance issue.
rube bonet
Adventurer
The owner is stopping by to make the final decision....
[tinfoil hat on] Were you just spying on me? I picked up the driveshafts today, 15 min ago I was literally laying under the truck checking the front shafts fitment, or lack thereof.... I had the front shaft made with a smaller diameter tube than I normally would, but bumped the material up to 1.5 dia x .250 chromoly tubing. I will need to clearance the trans pan, but it should fit no problems after that. In extreme cases, I build a 2 piece front driveshaft with a carrier to get around the pan, but they tend to vibrate at higher speeds in 4wd.
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ToolBox Guy
Adventurer
The owner is stopping by to make the final decision....
[tinfoil hat on] Were you just spying on me? I picked up the driveshafts today, 15 min ago I was literally laying under the truck checking the front shafts fitment, or lack thereof.... I had the front shaft made with a smaller diameter tube than I normally would, but bumped the material up to 1.5 dia x .250 chromoly tubing. I will need to clearance the trans pan, but it should fit no problems after that. In extreme cases, I build a 2 piece front driveshaft with a carrier to get around the pan, but they tend to vibrate at higher speeds in 4wd.
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I'm sure you've seen it or heard about it in the Pirate4x4 circles, but would the carrier that Wayne from All-Tech Motorsports makes, help you in any way?
I believe it has giant yokes on it though, worth checking out, just not sure if it will fit your application.
rube bonet
Adventurer
Yep, its a cool setup, not necessary here though, and probably wouldn't work because of the relatively short front driveshaft length. When I was cycling the front suspension, an 1 1/4 dia shaft cleared everything the way it is now(barely). I got a new sheet metal trans pan so I can trim it for max clearance, there just isn't much room to clearance the pan with the 700r valve body.
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rube bonet
Adventurer
I am surprised at how few reproduction parts there are for Scouts, I can literally build a brand new flatfender from a catalog of chinese "jeep" parts.
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