1981 K30 Flatbed Camper Build

[Rusgo]

There is a product from 3M called panel-bond. It is used in the automotive world to attach body panels to the internal framing/ Probably be good to attach your honeycombs to the framing and the aluminum to the panels.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Adhesive-Manual-Applicator-Sticker/dp/B00KSF9TCW

That stuff looks amazing, and so is it's high price! I'd probably need 50 packages to do everything.

Researching it I found this

Araldite 2011

Araldite 2011 is a multipurpose, high strength, viscous, epoxy adhesive. This versatile paste has the capabilities to bond a wide variety of materials including metals, ceramics, plastics, glass, rubber and most other materials. It has good resistance to dynamic loading and it provides a long...

krayden.com

Similar panel bonding two part epoxy system. Used in commercial applications. Company states specifically it will bond aluminum to plastics.

Not cheap either, but can be found in one gallon kits.


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[Rusgo]

I have an aluminum thin sheet covering for my camper. Initially I used ordinary construction adhesive for the skin and all the structural stuff. I later went to a sika product because Sika allows for a lot more flexibility. I think you could use Sika for everything. Check out my built thread for more info. Cheers, Chilli..

How was the speadability of Sika? I want to use it, especially on the frame side, but am worried about how well it will saturate the fiberglass layer.

Did you spread it across the entire aluminum panel pretty easily or was it pretty thick?

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[Rusgo]

Lots of big tacks. Little things. Mistakes...

If it's not obvious yet, the flatbed is going to be boxed and super ridged. It'll be tied into the frame top and bottom in 18 places and the frame will be boxed in a couple weak spots. Going to try to avoid any fancy pivoting mounting system while capable of handling a good amount of articulation.

The front and back of the bed sat right on top of the frame with no cutting or spacing. I used a piece of heavy angle to triangulate front and back beams while also acting as the frame mount.

The two middle beams were notched earlier to clear the higher frame points. I slid in 1/4" plate underneath and to the side to take up the gap and use and a mounting point to the frame. Turned out pretty slick with no gaps or spacers and perfectly level front to back.

Don't mind the vertical welds in the center of everything...

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[chilliwak]

How was the speadability of Sika? I want to use it, especially on the frame side, but am worried about how well it will saturate the fiberglass layer.

Did you spread it across the entire aluminum panel pretty easily or was it pretty thick?

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I used Sikabond. I spread a good even layer on the frame. Used a thin bondo spartle to smooth it out. Then I glued the aluminum skin on. Aluminum really expands with heat and contracts a lot when cold so you need to have a little room inbetween your aluminum so it has room to flex. I find Sikabond sticks to almost anything. I hope this helps. Cheers, Chilli...?

 

[Rusgo]

Don't mind the random steel laying everywhere. It's used to mock things up and check level occasionally.

Speeking of which, once I started adding weight on to the sides, the wings started to sag. Surprised the hell out of me. Front to back was perfect, but the wings were down a millimeter. Maybe should have used 2x6's. The bed was bolted to the frame and the wings were set on jackstands to perk things back up while the rest the the supporting structure is built. Also did a bit of minor surgery to address it.

Both left and right front wing boxes will hold a 30 gallon custom fuel tank. In between the frame rails will be 60 gallon fresh water, underfloor storage, and 20 gallon propane. The rear wings will have grey water and additional interior accessible storage.

All storage areas will be accessible only from the interior. Dont need people being tempted to force a lock.

Don't look at the red steel. It looks patchwork. Used to be part of an aircraft hangar. Also some older frame pieces Frankensteined in there.

Once everything is buttoned up, I'm thinking of skinning the sides in 1/8" steel diamond plate to tie the structure together even further. The top will be only frame. Camper is never coming off anyway.

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[chilliwak]

Looks solid Mr Rusgo. Good progress. Its an inspiration to follow your build. Cheers, Chilli... ?

 

[Rusgo]

Looks solid Mr Rusgo. Good progress. Its an inspiration to follow your build. Cheers, Chilli...

Thanks man. Don't jinx me though. It's still super early!

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[Rusgo]

Skinning the sides with 1/8" diamond plate. Cut out, recessed and boxed a couple places for small steps.

Except for the mounting points, everything is made of 1/8" and 1/16" tube. The boxed and skinned side cradles made everything super ridged. Still have tie in point underneath to finish that'll make it even more rigded.

After welding all the long structural seams, there is no more than .5mm deflection from any corner to another. Happy with that. glad I didn't go with 3/16" steel. It would have been an anchor.

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[Rusgo]

Those parallel lines! Not going to lie, this was a big challenge for me. So much verification of everything. It keeps getting more complex and taking a ton of time. Learning a lot and really liking how it's looking.

Still have a decent amount of finish work to go. Have to weld in some 14ga for the fenders.

Each front cradle will fit a 30 gallon rectangluar fuel tank.

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[Rusgo]

Exhaust is dual straight thru 100% stainless. Have two primary straight thru chamber mufflers, and then these guys I put together. Stainless glass packs with an insulated resonator tip. Low restriction and hopefully lowish noise.

Also put together some air bag top plates that will further tie together the truck frame and camper frame. So much triangulation.

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[Rusgo]

Couple big craigslist finds today!

A bunch of 8ft lengths of 3x3x1/4" angle aluminum and 1/4" bar. Guy clearing out his storage unit. $200!

Magnum 2000w pure sine inverter charger. Came stock in another guys $500k motor home. 50 pound beast. Oof. He upgraded to a larger unit since this one wouldn't run his toaster, coffer maker, and microwave at the same time. Haha. $500

Trying to keep track of cost.

Aluminum framing cost so far is $1200. Retails for $5000

Aluminum skin was $1050 retails for $3000

Inverter $500 retail $1400

$1000 on steel. Retail $2500. Some from wholesale and their remnants, from an old air hanger, from an old lumber rack, and various stuff I had hidden away.

Consumables so far $900. Epoxy, welding wire and gas, abrasives, gloves, masks, cutoff wheels, bed liner, paint

Composite panels cost $800. Retail $3000.

Stainless basin sink $260

$200 in stainless hardware

Horizontal 20 gallon propane tank $400

9000 btu minisplit heat pump $700 These new inverter units are crazy. Low start up amps and low variable power draw. Super efficient and heating works down to 5 degrees.

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[Inline6]

Nice build, keep it up

 

[UHAULER]

any updates?