1984 Crusier For Sale: What is it worth? What to look for Check past basics

[usnrigger]

Local Guy has a 1984 Land Cruiser for sale, thought it would be a fun project but it does need a lot of work IMO. both rear Quarters are rusted out the left side worse than right, but will need to be chopped out and a new panel welded back in.
Past engine runs good from him starting it up, I will be meeting up with him to check out the details and do a test drive. He says 4wd works good, PB, PS, AC are all good. Still need to check if the AC's been changed over to new coolant. its has 205,000 miles is the tan color. needs new tires. the driver side seat is shot and the others are good condition but worn faded small tears ext.... Glass looked good, tail lights, headlights good, body looked straight on first inspection. I will try and post photo

Looking for what a project vehicle in this condition would be worth? also anything I need to inspect that these vehicles had specific problems? I will be giving it the fine tooth next time when I do a test drive as well.

I can do my own sewing/upholstery work, I have my own TIG welder so those two things are reduced in total cost(labor).

Let me know what you guys think? This would be a expo project.

 

[Upland80]

Rust is a big No-No in my book...get a rust-free 1993-1997 80 series and you'll be quite happy.

 

[usnrigger]

Well the 80 series brings premiums nowadays.

Rust no go in your book because of work to repair?

Still looking for a idea on street value?

 

[AndrewP]

With that much rust it's a parts truck. So if the mechanicals are OK, $500-$1000 tops.

The frame is likely heavily rusted(check in the area of the rear spring hangers), wheel wells are often badly rusted too.

I would not even consider buying one like this.

 

[RockyMtnFamily]

I would pass on it, even as a parts truck. If you are patient, you will find the right one. I purchased mine in February for $3600 with 155,000 miles and the front axle/birfields/knuckles had just been done.

 

[usnrigger]

Well I'll give the whole truck a good look over, at 500$-1000$ is what I was thinking as well

Hmm, but from what I'm hearing it's a pass even at 500$ - is the rust hard to get ahead of in these trucks once they start?

 

[Arktikos]

- is the rust hard to get ahead of in these trucks once they start?

Maybe impossible? But if the frame isn't rusted out it could still be worth some effort. Who cares if the body isn't rust free anyway. You could get manyl years of good service out of the truck. Just don't dump a bunch of money into unnecessary "upgrades".

 

[jhanley]

THIS^^^

To properly asses, I'd need some pics. Rusted quarters don't mean rusted undercarriage. Unless you purchase a southwestern rig, more than likely, rear quarters are deteriorating. Remember, these early 60's are 30+ years old (with crap Toyota sheet metal).

And, who's buying 60's that run for 500 to 1000 dollars? Please, show me ALL these truck so I can buy them. If you don't, PM me the phone number. I recently purchased an 83 fj60 with rusted quarters, but, very little frame corrosion, runs like a top, tidy interior, 169k, and I stole it for $2,400.00. Sourced cut-outs for both fenders for less than $400.00.

Remember, collectors are buying 60's and 40's now, driving prices up. All that being said, if the frame is rusty, I'd pass. But, check it out, or have someone knowledgeable check it out.

 

[usnrigger]

Well, I went ahead and brought the old girl home today. Now begins the process of getting the maintenance up to date and finding all the little things that may be wrong/broken. I did some looking and the frame looks really solid in fact just as good or better then some trucks with not rust ive looked at in my research before I pulled the trigger.

Tomorrow will be insurance and temp tag, followed by a order for lots of gear case oil, filters and all other manner of regular maintenance items.

I will probably go ahead and start and project thread for me to post questions and any ideas as far as where to go for parts or how to do this. but here are the pictures. I will be the 3rd owner, still have the original window sticker I think $16,000 back in 1984 - I paid 2000.00 - Sorry guys but from looking around online rusted rockers and quarters with severely rusted frames are bringing 2k to some people. the rust in the quarters are the only body rust I could find and I looked hard, even had a inspection mirror looking around corners.




















And those little cool things I've found like a Old can of toyota touch up paint and paint chip with color code on it. Plus the original window sticker and manuals.

 

[Ridge Runner]

Looks to be in pretty decent shape to me, apart from the obvious rust. It will take some work, but it is fixable. The biggest reason quarter panel rust sucks on the 60s is there are no aftermarket replacement panels (I know of one guy who may still be making them, but haven't heard anything good about him) and the few that are in the junkyard are likely already rusted out or gone.

That radio is worth quite a bit if it's operable. Don't throw it away if you replace it. If the previous owner lost the metal cap that was on the shift knob, you can buy new knobs from Toyota for $20-$30. They're unique and kind of pretty.

Good luck to you!

 

[usnrigger]

The radio works and will be staying. I love the old radios.

The shift knob piece came off and was in the cup holder is worn, I'll be getting a fresh one

Panels I looked up and and ccot looks to be making 18ga replacements, or they did?
http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/quarterpanel.html

Need a dome light lens

Looked at the records from past owner and the trans, rear diff and transfer fluids were replaced 2 years ago, I'll probably still change.

What was in original tool kit, I found it under seat but don't know if it's complete. Also anyone know a source for the crank start lever? Thought it be cool to have , I could just make one as well.

 

[Ridge Runner]

There is no crank start lever. That hole under the grille is for diesel models outside the US. Some of them have shutters for stopping airflow to the radiator in cold months.

Tool kit:

Jack crank assy (three pieces: rod with hook, extension, and crank handle)
Slip joint pliers
Crescent wrench
Screwdriver with combo Phillips/flat shaft
Sparkplug wrench
Hubnut wrench (vaguely resembles a dumbbell with a rod)
Center cap wrench
Tire iron
Open end wrench set (10&12mm, 14&17mm)
Bag

I wasn't aware of that 1/4 panel from CCOT. Interesting. I haven't heard anyone speak of their quality.

 

[Ridge Runner]

The front dome light lens is available from Toyota, but you can find it on any Camry, 4Runner, or pick-up whose body style included 1990. The rear dome light must be replaced as an assembly.

 

[usnrigger]

Ah, those overseas trucks got all the goodies...

I will see what my bag has in it. thanks for the info

if they are available those panels are the ones I was looking at using.

I will get the lens on order then, need to stop in at the Toyota dealer anyway for a AC belt and shift know insert.

Are most guys using R12 or upgrading the system? I was thinking if it needed to be serviced to see if I could get someone to stay with R12 and not worry about converting it over.

once I get general maintenance performed was looking at also doing knuckles and adding new suspension OME would be my first choice. I guessing that a acceptable route vs other kits out there?

radio antenna needs attention, looks like this truck came with a fixed array, should I just do that or upgrade it to the retractable version for clearance?

probably need to hunt down Factory Service Manuals as a start as well.

She will be taking a trip to the car wash to get a quick spray down and clean up.

 

[Ridge Runner]

Sorry if I wasn't clear. I meant that you can get the whole shift knob from Toyota, not the insert.

You can find the answer to just about any question on IH8MUD. http://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/60-series-wagons.27/

I've actually never heard anyone say whether they converted to R134a or stuck with R12 and am up in the air about whether or not I'll convert mine when I'm ready to charge the system. If you're going to get your system charged, I would consider replacing all of the o-rings in the lines since they tend to dry out and facilitate leaks.

You can download just about any service or parts manual you need here: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/40-50-60-and-80-series-fsm-for-a-hell-of-a-price.610994/

Stick with a mast antenna. There's a write-up here for replacing your OEM mast with a unit that can be used for radio and CB traffic. http://wagongear.com/project/antenna-mount-info/

If your dome light is intact, do NOT push on or even touch the lens. They're exceptionally brittle and will shatter with the slightest pressure.

Again, good luck on your purchase. I'd like to see some engine and more interior pics, but it looks like you got a pretty good deal. 60s have really started climbing in price this past year.