1985 4x4 Econoline - Road Trip Prep!

[Pntyrmvr]

Technically one could order a Ford E series 4wd van back then by checking off the correct box on the order form. The van was built, drop shipped to the converter, and then on to the selling dealer. It got a factory warranty. The underwood sticker would show the appropriate codes as would the dealer invoice.

Google VanCharger for Chrysler's version of the same idea.


"Talk is cheap. Whiskey costs money."

 

[phishsihp]

I really appreciate everyone's input on this thread. We are excited to get started upgrading and building this van out for our summer travels. I don't think a new engine or drivetrain is in our budget, so we'll be doing the best we can to upgrade or just get new parts to make sure everything is running in tip top shape for the best MPGs we can get with our current setup. That being said, let me post a list so you all know and I can hold myself (and remember) everything that I plan on doing to the van. We're picking it back up this coming Tuesday.

- Upgrade battery cable to 2g wires. (What other cables should be replaced with new 2g wire w/ kevlar sleeves?)
- Upgrade to 1993 or newer starter for ford 460 application (anyone have link or vehicle to recommend?)
- Possible edelbrock or similiar carb upgrade and tune
- Cigarette port/12v socket fix (I plan to go through the entire fuse box under drivers side and dremel out all the fuse connections, a lot of them are rusty and I assume some things aren't getting good connection)
- Install new fuel filter, who knows the last time it was changed. (link to writeup on this anyone?)
- Instrument cluster dash lights need fixing (I'm hoping this is part of the fuse issues, we'll see if they come back on after all the rusty metal connections are dremel'd back to metal.)
- The rear red running lights aren't working (again hoping a fuse issue and not a wiring issue here. anyone have this issue before?)
- The temperature gauge isn't working. Everything else does. Do I need a new temperature sending unit possibly?

Really appreciate everyone's input and suggestions as we begin to work on the van. Please say what you feel. I have only moderate mechanic skills with a decent set of tools. Most things I will attempt but tough stuff may be going to a mechanic. I will keep everyone updated on the status of things!

 

[broncobowsher]

Dash lights not working on an older Ford. Check the fuse box, there is an insterment panel light fuse. Usually a very short one. That tends to pop when smeone splices in stuff to the wiring poorly and shorts out. That fuse is between the dash light dimmer (twisting the headlight knob) and the dash lights. If you don't have power to either side of the fuse (and you have tried twisting the headlight switch counterclockwise) the next super common failure point for these dash lights is a burned up reostat in the headlight switch.

If you have never done an old Ford headlight switch, here is how. Pull the knob all the way out. press the release button on the switch (behind the dash). Pull the knob the rest of the way out with the shaft attached. Now you can fit a big screwdriver into the slots and unscrew the securing nut. now the whole switch is free to replace. New switches are still available for cheap from most any parts store. Looking at the new one you will see where the release button is on the dirty old nasty one you are trying to remove and can only find the button by braill.

 

[zuren]

I really appreciate everyone's input on this thread. We are excited to get started upgrading and building this van out for our summer travels. I don't think a new engine or drivetrain is in our budget, so we'll be doing the best we can to upgrade or just get new parts to make sure everything is running in tip top shape for the best MPGs we can get with our current setup. That being said, let me post a list so you all know and I can hold myself (and remember) everything that I plan on doing to the van. We're picking it back up this coming Tuesday.

- Upgrade battery cable to 2g wires. (What other cables should be replaced with new 2g wire w/ kevlar sleeves?)
- Upgrade to 1993 or newer starter for ford 460 application (anyone have link or vehicle to recommend?)
- Possible edelbrock or similiar carb upgrade and tune
- Cigarette port/12v socket fix (I plan to go through the entire fuse box under drivers side and dremel out all the fuse connections, a lot of them are rusty and I assume some things aren't getting good connection)
- Install new fuel filter, who knows the last time it was changed. (link to writeup on this anyone?)
- Instrument cluster dash lights need fixing (I'm hoping this is part of the fuse issues, we'll see if they come back on after all the rusty metal connections are dremel'd back to metal.)
- The rear red running lights aren't working (again hoping a fuse issue and not a wiring issue here. anyone have this issue before?)
- The temperature gauge isn't working. Everything else does. Do I need a new temperature sending unit possibly?

Really appreciate everyone's input and suggestions as we begin to work on the van. Please say what you feel. I have only moderate mechanic skills with a decent set of tools. Most things I will attempt but tough stuff may be going to a mechanic. I will keep everyone updated on the status of things!

I don't know what your budget is but there are fuel injection conversions for the engine you have. Might be worth some research to see if they are worth the cost. If you plan to head into the mountains, a fuel injected solution may be something to consider (to optimize your air:fuel mixture as you change altitude).

With any vehicle or piece of power equipment I obtain, I always change out all filters and fluids for the best replacements that I can buy (typically Mobil1 fluids and high quality filters - NOT FRAM!). I consider it cheap insurance and you have a starting point to track your maintenance. Don't assume the previous owner used the correct parts/fluids or added the correct volumes of fluid. So if you haven't done it, plan on changing your engine oil, tranny fluid, diff. fluids, brake fluids, air filter, fuel filter, etc.

Sounds like you need a multimeter and learn how to use it to track down your electrical issues. My next question is why are all the fuse contacts so rusty? Was this van in a humid environment or has water physically entered the fuse box (as in, the van was flooded)?

Regarding the engine heat, you could look into adding vents to the hood (http://hoodlouvers.com/e350-sportsmobile/).

I would also start assembling a mobile repair kit that you keep in the van. Sounds like you have a lot of electrical issues so parts to fix or bypass bad connections might be handy.

Keeping your speeds low will help on the MPGs. Your van has the aerodynamics of a barn; time to take it easy and run 55-60 MPH. You are pushing a lot of air and there is no way around it. I get close to 20 MPG running at 60 MPH in my van. You can try things like these: http://www.airtab.com/ (no experience with them). Overall, inflated tires and lower speeds will help the most.

 

[calicamper]

I've got a similar rig, 1983 E350, but with a 351w carberated. I've only had it a few months now, but vans of that era are infamous for poor airflow due to the confined engine compartment and I've already noticed my temperature will climb when pulling a good uphill. I only mention this because of the spare tire you have mounted in front of the radiator, I'd considered something similar but am leary of it the more I get to know this rig.

Just something to keep an eye on and digest before you head out across America :1888fbbd:

Just an observation on the age of the truck- what these guys are telling you about the cables is good advice, I just went through and replaced all my cables with new 2guage, and insulated them with Kevlar sleeves. I also replaced a bad coil but while I was at it replaced the ignition control box, and starter selenoid and kept the old for spares - I've just dealt with enough 80's model Fords to know that was a good idea and cheap insurance. I haven't done it yet, but the dual tank selection unit (probably not what it's called) is also a good part to replace and keep for spare, unless it's already broke and you're running one tank.

Also, my rig has a metal tag on the doghouse indicating it's a Pathfinder conversion. Can't exactly tell by your pic but your truck seems like it's got leaf spring front suspension- if it's a radius arm suspension it's a good chance it's a Pathfinder if done in the early 1980's just because they did a lot of them in that era.

Hey Keyeser. Our 85 351 had a similar heat spike for several yrs since brand new. We kept taking it in to the dealer. Nothing found. I also suspect this heat spike during a trip in hot temps was what popped the ignition relay that resulted in a costly tow.

We had a local drag engine builder look over the 351 to see if he could I'd the heat issue. Given it was under load when it happens he zeroed in on the exhaust system. He pulled the exhaust manafold and found that Ford had assembled it at the factory with the wrong gasket. The ports were partially blocked by the gasket. Tottally wrong gasket! We replaced it with the correct gasket and never saw a heat spike again.

Just some info that might help you narrow down potential causes.

 

[KeyserSoSay]

I don't know what your budget is but there are fuel injection conversions for the engine you have. Might be worth some research to see if they are worth the cost. If you plan to head into the mountains, a fuel injected solution may be something to consider (to optimize your air:fuel mixture as you change altitude).

I've looked into this as well and if you go that way I suggest looking at the Fitech throttle body EFI, it runs about $800 and simply replaces your carburetor. Very, very, slick piece of tack, basically eliminates or replaces all the many different components you'd need for a EFI conversion. Fitech also sells a Fuel Control Center ($400) which is basically a go-between sump with built-in high pressure pump to the EFI which eliminates any headaches you might have making your existing fuel system work with the EFI.
`
I was convinced to make this same switch, but my van is starting and running like a striped-***-ape right now so it's getting harder to see the need, we'll see what life's like next winter (and after some real off-road and high elevation use) and I may revisit it.

 

[calicamper]

Technically one could order a Ford E series 4wd van back then by checking off the correct box on the order form. The van was built, drop shipped to the converter, and then on to the selling dealer. It got a factory warranty. The underwood sticker would show the appropriate codes as would the dealer invoice.

Google VanCharger for Chrysler's version of the same idea.


"Talk is cheap. Whiskey costs money."

Yup. As I said we nearly bought a diesel E250 4x4 but the dealer didnt want to deal. The funny story is my dads buddy bought it. Both vans were special order by the dealer. I know because both were stripped basic models no rear windows even!. Ours had low back fixed two front seats and no windows except the front three. Both vans were driven directly to a conversion shop.

The diesel 4x4 was traded in about 4 yrs before ours was junked. The diesel had a slipping transmission at 200k. Ours was done in by a crow bar opened drivers door and meth head ripping out all the wires behind the dash trying to hot wire it at 300k. To costly to fix.

 

[phishsihp]

I've looked into this as well and if you go that way I suggest looking at the Fitech throttle body EFI, it runs about $800 and simply replaces your carburetor. Very, very, slick piece of tack, basically eliminates or replaces all the many different components you'd need for a EFI conversion. Fitech also sells a Fuel Control Center ($400) which is basically a go-between sump with built-in high pressure pump to the EFI which eliminates any headaches you might have making your existing fuel system work with the EFI.
`
I was convinced to make this same switch, but my van is starting and running like a striped-***-ape right now so it's getting harder to see the need, we'll see what life's like next winter (and after some real off-road and high elevation use) and I may revisit it.

Thanks for this info. This may be right for us since we live at 7800 ft elevation and tend to go up and down the hill every so often. It's hard to get it running sometimes until it gets warmed up because we haven't had the carb adjusted for this elevation yet. Is this the product you're talking about?

http://www.jegs.com/i/FITech+Fuel+I...hKN-EODC52Z_6uSGXujRjbndHvxDsv4UBABoC553w_wcB

and if we did put this on would that essentially be a computer that controls the air/fuel mixture so it runs smooth at all elevations? I'm sure we'll be going into some high elevations this summer too. Thanks for your input.

 

[KeyserSoSay]

Yep, that's the one- the "go street" model should be all you'd need up to 400hp. The neat thing about these is that the computer is inside it, and there is no need for any external computers, or change in any ignition system. these have all the vacuum line attachments that your 4-barrel carburetor would as well and standard sensors, and the computer simulates your carburetor for vacuum. They come with a handheld programming device that just plugs into them, you set some simple parameters and run the engine through a course of rpms and the device self learns and basically programs itself. I'm not the expert on these but have studied up on them and can say that the industry is abuzz about these things because they just work as they are supposed to and do it for a very reasonable price.

This is the fuel command center from the same site.
http://www.jegs.com/i/FITech-Fuel-Injection/546/40003/10002/-1

helpful video if you're interested.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MXHfc0tdCk