pith helmet
Well-known member
super work. looking forward to seeing the finished product.
My thoughts are to build a minimalistic floor/cabover skeleton out of hardwood, cut foam to fit openings, then fiberglass. The walls and cieling would be straight foam and fiberglass (maybe some wood around the rear door opening?) The idea is to give myself something solid to attach to the frame mounts, and cab. I would like to avoid making an external steel subframe, mainly to keep everything as low as possible. Does this sound safe/reasonable? Would i be better off just building those areas up with multiple layers of glass?
Sound thinking for the most part, though the "skeleton" part isn't necessary. Sandwich panels need "hardpoints" only where they are subjected to very concentrated force. The best way to accomplish this is with a solid piece (of something) that replaces the foam in that spot and joins the two skins together. You can use wood, but I don't think hardwood is necessary. You can also buy fiberglass extruded angle or square tubing to keep everything "rot free". The only place I'm adding hardpoints is the 3 spots where the bottom of the camper attaches to the frame pivots.
What I did was drill a bunch of holes in the foam and fill them with epoxy. I think square tubes would have been better though... but honestly I probably didn't need anything. The foam is rated for ~150 psi. If you have 1,000 lbs of force spread evenly over a 10"x10" area that's only 10psi. So ya... overkill most likely.
Best way to keep from having a concentrated load is to... spread the load out. Instead of screwing stuff into the skins use epoxy or one of the structural adhesives (like Sikaflex) if possible. The manufacturers of foam sandwich campers will usually just glue cabinets and furniture directly to the skins with no reinforcement. I think with most bought doors can be installed without screws too, but I'm not sure about that.
Your frame is fully boxed and you've even added extra reinforcement so it should be very stiff. This is good... you can attach directly to the frame and also the cab if you wish. You could use cab mounts (rubber/urethane bushings) between the frame and camper, but I'm pretty sure you don't need them.
Yes, you can do all sorts of filleting and reinforcement with hand layup; extra layers where you think you'll need them. Will you have a cabover bed? I didn't want mine sticking out past the top of the cab, and I wanted the option to sleep crossways or fore-aft, so I made the bed platform (the bottom panel of the cabover) extend 20" behind the cab. Cabinets/storage go under it. That way it's also easy to avoid excessive stress concentration at the bottom of the cabover where it meets the rest of the camper.
I have some ideas to really stiffen up that section as it could see up to 350-400lbs with two adults.
It'll be plenty strong and stiff if you are using 1.5" PVC and reasonable skins, and reinforce the edges and corners. No worries there.
I built a big camper on a '84 1/2 ton 2wd >20 years ago. I used the cabover for storage. The camper was too big for that truck, though I'm sure some suspension upgrades would have helped a lot!
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Just guessing ~700 lbs... plus I lost the bed. 2.7mm Luan skins, 3/4" core with 1x2s every ~16" (floor was 1.5" with 2x2s and 2x4s). Covered with fiberglass matt and poly resin +gelcoat.That things pretty sweet lookin! Any idea on shell weight, and MPG?
Im still pretty set on carbon core - 169/sheet for 4lb pvc 46x96. Anyone else have a cheaper high quality foam suggestion?
Im a little nervous, but their website says in stock. Im going to call tomorrow and confirm.People in CA can't even buy XPS now, so hopefully you'll be able get what you want. Supply issues are hitting everything...
People in CA can't even buy XPS now, so hopefully you'll be able get what you want. Supply issues are hitting everything...