1987 4runner travel light build

[jalbrecht55]

Looks like either a trail master or pro-comp 4” suspension lift or something very similar to that. The two are very similar and most of the parts interchange. Only difference I found is that pro comp has cast iron brackets (that don’t look like it until you break them) and pro comp are conventional fabricated steel. As mentioned you could adjust the torsion bars for minor height adjustment, but if you want it stock-ish height you will pretty much need to remove the lift kit.

These have an extended knuckle bracket that bolts on over the stock knuckle and raises the upper mounting point 4” to match the drop bracket height along with a differential drop bracket. If you decide to remove the lift kit pay attention to remove the tapered spindle sleeve from the stock spindle.

Kit
https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-comp-4-inch-lift-kit-with-es3000-shocks-k5054b/_/R-DFCW-K5054B


Instructions
https://www.4wheelparts.com/sku/Pro Comp Suspension/standard/57089B_K5054B_K5056B_K5060B_INST.pdf

 

[Skitrash]

The front likely has a ball joint spacer and a torsion bar crank in addition to the crossmember drop. You can lower the front a bit with no extra parts, simply crank them down. The rear you could likely lose the blocks or go with shorter blocks and keep the same height shocks all the way around.

I would definitely loose the big tires in favor of the 31x10.5x15 size. It’s a good size for stock gearing.

Check our site over at www.okienomads.com we have a bunch of posts and photos of our 1st gen.

Does cranking down the torsion bar have any negative effects on handling? Checked out okienomads, looks like y'all are having a righteously good time. I spent two years living in the back of a 1972 VW bus back before it was called overlanding. Love me some Baja. Nowadays I'm mostly a weekend warrior. I do love the diy nature of your build.

 

[Skitrash]

IMHO your truck looks great and sits well. By the condition of the shocks the lift doesn't look that old but appears to be done well. If it has been done properly there is no reason why it shouldn't last forever, but if you want to lower everything then you would want to lose it. Check the numbers on the shocks to see what type they are and they may be ok to use. Saying that, I think you should leave it as it is

Nick

Of course one advantage of leaving it lifted would be to keep it out of my shop and on the road...
...hmmmm?
I'll be driving it as is for the summer before making any big changes. More immediate goals are to continue to fix that which needs fixin'.

 

[Skitrash]

Looks like either a trail master or pro-comp 4” suspension lift or something very similar to that. The two are very similar and most of the parts interchange. Only difference I found is that pro comp has cast iron brackets (that don’t look like it until you break them) and pro comp are conventional fabricated steel. As mentioned you could adjust the torsion bars for minor height adjustment, but if you want it stock-ish height you will pretty much need to remove the lift kit.

These have an extended knuckle bracket that bolts on over the stock knuckle and raises the upper mounting point 4” to match the drop bracket height along with a differential drop bracket. If you decide to remove the lift kit pay attention to remove the tapered spindle sleeve from the stock spindle.

Kit
https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-comp-4-inch-lift-kit-with-es3000-shocks-k5054b/_/R-DFCW-K5054B


Instructions
https://www.4wheelparts.com/sku/Pro Comp Suspension/standard/57089B_K5054B_K5056B_K5060B_INST.pdf

Does adjusting down mean loosening or backing off the torsion bar? Does this soften the front?

 

[zelseman]

It should soften the lower it goes. I’d drive it as is and see if you like it. We enjoy the full time life and really enjoy traveling. Our other rig is a school bus, so I don’t know if we fit the overlanding mold either!

 

[jalbrecht55]

Does adjusting down mean loosening or backing off the torsion bar? Does this soften the front?

Yeah adjusting down means turning the preload bolt counter clockwise. If you adjust it to stock preload it will probably ride the best. It kinda looks like it’s cranked up an inch or so to me.

Factory service manual (search online FSM) should have some numbers to help you figure out what stock is. Biggest thing I noticed personally is that when it’s cranked up high it easily tops out (contacts the droop bumpstops) and if it’s too low it easily bottoms (contacts the compression bumpstops). These trucks only have around 6” of travel on these metal to metal so there’s not a lot to play with.

On my old Toyota I put in shorter bump stop extensions and made a small spacer to go between the upper ball joint and the A arm, and managed a bit over 8” of travel IIR. (This was almost 20 years ago)

Here’s an example

http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/suspen/ifskit.old


These bracket lifts aren’t all bad. One thing I like is that at 4” of lift they basically maintain all stock steering and suspension geometry. An example where this is good is say idler arm wear. My old truck would eat an idler arm every few wheeling trips with my rancho suspension (which is more of an A arm and torsion bar adjustment type of lift—no suspension drop brackets) but when I switched to the trailmaster/pro comp I never had another issue with it.

Another good thing is that it has a brace between the rear points on the lower control arm (That the stock configuration lacks—and needs!).

 

[Skitrash]

It should soften the lower it goes. I’d drive it as is and see if you like it. We enjoy the full time life and really enjoy traveling. Our other rig is a school bus, so I don’t know if we fit the overlanding mold either!

Walking is traveling over land.

 

[Skitrash]

Yeah adjusting down means turning the preload bolt counter clockwise. If you adjust it to stock preload it will probably ride the best. It kinda looks like it’s cranked up an inch or so to me.

Factory service manual (search online FSM) should have some numbers to help you figure out what stock is. Biggest thing I noticed personally is that when it’s cranked up high it easily tops out (contacts the droop bumpstops) and if it’s too low it easily bottoms (contacts the compression bumpstops). These trucks only have around 6” of travel on these metal to metal so there’s not a lot to play with.

On my old Toyota I put in shorter bump stop extensions and made a small spacer to go between the upper ball joint and the A arm, and managed a bit over 8” of travel IIR. (This was almost 20 years ago)

Here’s an example

http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/suspen/ifskit.old


These bracket lifts aren’t all bad. One thing I like is that at 4” of lift they basically maintain all stock steering and suspension geometry. An example where this is good is say idler arm wear. My old truck would eat an idler arm every few wheeling trips with my rancho suspension (which is more of an A arm and torsion bar adjustment type of lift—no suspension drop brackets) but when I switched to the trailmaster/pro comp I never had another issue with it.

Another good thing is that it has a brace between the rear points on the lower control arm (That the stock configuration lacks—and needs!).

Thanks for the info. I got a factory service manual off eBay, I'll try fooling around with the preload.

 

[Saint Nick]

I'm planning to leave it as is for the summer to see how I like it. I know the shocks (bilstiens) are new, shame to lose those. My reason for wanting (I think) it lower is because I'm going to use it as a mountain commuter much of the time to and from jobsites. I'm thinking it will be easier to load/unload tools and such from the back and the planned future racks.

Good, you know it makes sense Unless you are really short, you shouldn't have a problem loading and unloading

Of course one advantage of leaving it lifted would be to keep it out of my shop and on the road...
...hmmmm?
I'll be driving it as is for the summer before making any big changes. More immediate goals are to continue to fix that which needs fixin'.

Exactly. Don't make work for yourself, drive it, enjoy it and if anything does break, then fix it as you say.

Nick.

 

[Saint Nick]

Thanks for the info. I got a factory service manual off eBay, I'll try fooling around with the preload.

I wouldn't get too hung up on this. Like I said the truck sits nicely, and I assume it drives nicely too, however if you start messing around with the torsion bars then you are likely to upset everything. Of course if you are going to go ahead and lower everything, then you'll have to.

This may help, and if this little chap can do it...…………………………! http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/torsion-bar-adjustment-19258.html
Or here http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/torsion_bars/
Plus YouTube etc

Nick

 

[Skitrash]

I wouldn't get too hung up on this. Like I said the truck sits nicely, and I assume it drives nicely too, however if you start messing around with the torsion bars then you are likely to upset everything. Of course if you are going to go ahead and lower everything, then you'll have to.

This may help, and if this little chap can do it...…………………………! http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/torsion-bar-adjustment-19258.html
Or here http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/torsion_bars/
Plus YouTube etc

Nick

SaintNick, thanks for the info, gives me food for thought. I'm hoping to have some time in the shop this weekend, my priority is working windows:<}

 

[battleaxe]

I ran those Federal Couragias for 2-3 years in a 31x10.5 on a first gen 4runner. They were fine overall, but an absolute nightmare in ice and snow.

I have the Cooper AT3's on my '16 Taco, and they're alright in the snow and ice, as long as I'm in 4WD. We have KO2's on our '18 4Runner, and they're night and day difference to the Coopers.

I'm not saying the Coopers are bad, in fact I think they're a better all round all season tire... But if you have the extra money, pony up for the KO2's.

For what you do with the truck, I'd just run it as is, probably drop down to a 31" tire (unless the truck has been re-geared). Address the maintenance stuff, and just drive it. Lift blocks are kinda stupid, but it would be a fair chunk of change to put that whole truck back to stock, while I think it's perfectly fine as it is now.

 

[Skitrash]

I ran those Federal Couragias for 2-3 years in a 31x10.5 on a first gen 4runner. They were fine overall, but an absolute nightmare in ice and snow.

I have the Cooper AT3's on my '16 Taco, and they're alright in the snow and ice, as long as I'm in 4WD. We have KO2's on our '18 4Runner, and they're night and day difference to the Coopers.

I'm not saying the Coopers are bad, in fact I think they're a better all round all season tire... But if you have the extra money, pony up for the KO2's.

For what you do with the truck, I'd just run it as is, probably drop down to a 31" tire (unless the truck has been re-geared). Address the maintenance stuff, and just drive it. Lift blocks are kinda stupid, but it would be a fair chunk of change to put that whole truck back to stock, while I think it's perfectly fine as it is now.

On all my other vehicles I run two sets of wheels, one with winter tires, one with summer.

 

[Skitrash]

Late post on necessary repair. A little new wire and new motors and...
...voila! Working windows. Also put together tool and recovery kit and chainsaw kit. My next project will be a good camp kitchen box.

 

[Skitrash]

Late post on necessary repair. A little new wire and new motors and...
...voila! Working windows. Also put together tool and recovery kit and chainsaw kit. My next project will be a good camp kitchen box.

For some reason every time I try to upload pics it says my file is too large?? Never had that before.