1991 Chevy SAS build

[TwinDuro]

Thanks for the interest in the project everybody. People say facebook/instagram killed online forums, but I hate trying to document projects on those platforms. But, if no one is interacting here it feels like a waste of time. I definitely welcome all comments and questions to keep the thread alive.

I’m agree 100% @vargsmetal, IMHO a lot is lost on Facebook/Instagram and similar platforms for documenting vehicle builds. These forums are great for builds and keep things way more concise and organized, plus communication on a post by post basis is easier to follow then a comment thread...

I'm not doing a full rebuild like replacing the carrier bearings or anything in the diff yet as I'll be doing those when I regear later on. Plan is to get the truck running and driving on the stock 4.10s, and then regear to 4.88 or 5.13 later with lockers. I keep going back and forth on what lockers I want. Original plan was ARB front and back, but I've heard about enough issues to be cautious throwing that much money at them. Right now I'm thinking detroit rear and an elocker for the front. Only thing I'm worried about is the on-road handling with the detroit and a short wheelbase.
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Is the AAM 10.5 you’re using for the rear currently open or does it have a G80? I still wonder why Eaton hasn’t come out with an eLocker for the 10.5”... maybe it’s a carrier design issue or maybe the demand just isn’t there for a manufacturing standpoint? Who knows...

On the Ox locker, is it available for the AAM 10.5 yet? Their website doesn’t list it and their Facebook page said it was still under development summer of last year, just curious...

Just spitballing here, if the OX locker is available, would it make any sense to use their electric actuator that OX sells with a shorter cable, mounting the actuator safetly up in the rear frame rails? Seems over-complicated to me, but I suppose not any more then having an air compressor, air line and solinoid for the ARB. I do like that OX sells a “Drive away lock” for $26 that quickly installs in the diff cover to lock up the rear diff if you have a cable/actuator failure.

Not saying one is better then the other (I have no personal experience with either) just throwing it out there ?

Maybe I’m jumping too far ahead, but what are you planning for an engine/trans/T-case combo? ?

 

[vargsmetal]

I’m agree 100% @vargsmetal, IMHO a lot is lost on Facebook/Instagram and similar platforms for documenting vehicle builds. These forums are great for builds and keep things way more concise and organized, plus communication on a post by post basis is easier to follow then a comment thread...



Is the AAM 10.5 you’re using for the rear currently open or does it have a G80? I still wonder why Eaton hasn’t come out with an eLocker for the 10.5”... maybe it’s a carrier design issue or maybe the demand just isn’t there for a manufacturing standpoint? Who knows...

On the Ox locker, is it available for the AAM 10.5 yet? Their website doesn’t list it and their Facebook page said it was still under development summer of last year, just curious...

Just spitballing here, if the OX locker is available, would it make any sense to use their electric actuator that OX sells with a shorter cable, mounting the actuator safetly up in the rear frame rails? Seems over-complicated to me, but I suppose not any more then having an air compressor, air line and solinoid for the ARB. I do like that OX sells a “Drive away lock” for $26 that quickly installs in the diff cover to lock up the rear diff if you have a cable/actuator failure.

Not saying one is better then the other (I have no personal experience with either) just throwing it out there

Maybe I’m jumping too far ahead, but what are you planning for an engine/trans/T-case combo?

The AAM10.5 is basically identical to any old Corp 14 bolt full floater. They just copied the corp diff and added disc brakes so any of the lockers available for the 14 bolt will work. Can't speak for the Dodge AAM's, or the 11.5 used in Duramax trucks. Why eaton hasn't come out with an elocker for it I have no clue, but I don't think the Dana 60 elocker has even been out that long. Maybe that'll change by the time I'm ready to upgrade. The one I have is open. I'm not a huge fan of the G80.

The air locker is a no brainer in theory since I'll have air anyway. I'm just hesitant to throw $2k at something that I might have issues with. I know TONS of people have had no issues, but I've heard of enough to be open to other options. I'll have to look into the Ox more. Maybe that would be the ticket. Being able to fix it on the trail with a plug is pretty awesome.

I have a 4.8L and 4L80e to use for the truck. Obviously a 6.0L or some kind of diesel would be preferable, but it's what I have to work with. Having the 5.3/4L80e combo in my 90 now I know it will do what I need to do. I think geared right and keeping the weight down I'll still be able to eek out 15mpg. Swapping in a 6.0L, or even 7.4L/8.1L would be simple later on. I don't have a transfer case yet, but it will probably be a NP241 with SYE for now. Eventually I'd like to get the ORD magnum 205 setup.

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[vintageracer]

The ONLY thing worthwhile on Facebook is Marketplace and that has given me a whole new appreciation for the buyers/sellers on CL!

 

[TwinDuro]

Sounds great to me @vargsmetal! I’ve done a few cross county trips in smaller box trucks equipped with the 4.8/4L80/85 combo and appreciate the power and mileage of that setup. I remember one particular trip from Kansas back to Washington when I was basically driving the truck pegged to its speed limiter (75mph) with around 2.5 tons of stuff in the back and it returned 14.6mpg for the trip...

 

[TwinDuro]

I'm sure you've probably already seen them @vargsmetal, but here are some photos of the two non-cable-shift-lever actuators for the OX locker. Here's the electric actuator that works in conjunction with a cable (they say 36"-48" works best) :



...and the air actuator that is all on the outside of the cover (you can also get ones that are built in, not quite sure how those work on Ox's):





While I know anything outside of the diff is vulnerable, it seems like an easy-to-service setup if something goes screwy... just something to chew on ?

 

[vargsmetal]

Haven't had much time to work on this thing but I got the Dana 60 torn down as far as I want to take it. The upper kingpins are ok so I'll just be replacing the springs and bushings. The lower bearings were junk because the dust caps actually rotted out. Getting the lower caps off was the hardest part of the whole project. I got the rebuild kits from ORD so it'll all go back together once I get some paint on everything. Kingpins might be stronger/longer lasting than balljoints but they are way more expensive and time consuming to go through. I think I'll just use a super duty D60 next time.

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[jonathon]

That 60 doesn’t look too bad for being from the NE. I think the bigger issue is the newest kingpin 60 is pushing 30 years old and anything that’s not metal is going to be rotten from age. Materials have gotten a lot better since then too.

 

[vargsmetal]

It's pretty crusty. The passenger tube is badly pitted around the spring mount. I don't think the lower bearings have ever been touched. That probably wouldn't have been a problem if they had washed it every now and then to keep the dust caps from rotting through. Either way, the ring and pinion are in amazing shape, so I think it'll be a good axle once I get it back together.

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[vargsmetal]

Had some decent weather today so I did some painting. The new diff covers are from Ruffstuff. They're super beefy, 3/8 thick with a machined flange. The truck will be mostly black so I went with Husqvarna orange as an accent color.

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[TwinDuro]

Any progress on the build @vargsmetal? ?