1992 f150 daily driver and adventure rig.

underdrive

jackwagon
Oh I'm all too aware of what's involved in installing a Bronco tank in a pickup truck (we got one), I get a chuckle every time I see someone claiming it to be an easy-peasy bolt-on deal. And for the record you don't need a skid plate to go with that tank, parts stores do sell regular straps to go under the tank like how 2wd trucks have them. Makes things somewhat easier if all you have is a brand new Bronco tank and nothing else...

I do wonder how bending the float arm will make it read properly. The travel of the sender itself doesn't change, but the travel of the float does, the only way that can happen is with a longer float arm. Bending the factory arm down will make it read empty closer to the bottom of the tahnk, but at the same rate you'll hit the full mark merely halfway up. With the Bronco arm you get more swing at the float per same travel at the sender, thus it will be much more accurate with a larger tank. And yes it will likely need some creative bending as well, there's pretty much no way around that but honestly it's no big deal, and you can make your gauges read whatever you want them to - for example we made ours so when the rear tank hits E on the gauge there's still 5 gallons of fuel in the tank, so about 15% reserve. Front tank is the same, hits E at 3 gallons left, so again 15% reserve.

Think next year we'll ditch the Spectra steel tanks and go with these instead:
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Gas-Tank-33-Gallon-Plastic-90-96/productinfo/30216/
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/198...-Side-Mount-Tank-19-Gallon/productinfo/30336/
With the Powerstroke stainless-steel sender units and good undercoating of the steel parts once everything is together they should pretty much outlast the truck they're being installed in.

The dually tires, if you run all 6 the same size and they're all worn evenly you can buy them a pair a month and the budget hit is substabtially less brutal.

Care to post a pic of your bike?
 

greengreer

Adventurer
I kinda forgot about 2wd Broncos... not very common I take it. Did you still have to make a new crossmember to mount the straps to?
As far as bending the rod, I should have been more clear. As far as I understand the gauge will read full until the tank is about half full (19gal) and then begin to read correctly. Not perfect but it's gonna have to work for now. If I had taken the bed off to do this then I may be more inclined to try to setup the float exactly how I want it. I think just adding in some welding rod or something would do the trick, but how much and what bend,etc would take some playing with.

That's not a bad tip on the dually tires but I generally run mud terrains out back and all terrains up front. Also I prefer how it rides with a 265/75/16 up front too. I just get used to replacing the fronts muh more often. Lucky for me a friend just bought an 04 f350 and ditched the 265/75 cooper at3's for some 285 ko2's. I should be able to get a good deal on the 4, then have an extra pair for when the time comes. The back will get re-treads again. At $90 a pop out the door its hard to beat. This time I'm gonna dig through theyre inventory and find better casings. The last set have been on there for two years now and did just fine for the $. Had one go out of round a few months ago but they made it right.
Really need to do an alignment on the dually. Anyone do this in their driveway? I know they need a slight toe in but I'm not sure how to deal with adjusting the camber and caster. As of right now it eats the outside of the front tires pretty bad.

KIMG0199.jpg
 

underdrive

jackwagon
Nice bike!

For alighment, camber is kinda easy if you have good straight brake rotors - chuck a magnetic angle finder on their outboard braking surface vertically in front of the hubs and that will tell you what angles they sit at, that is also the wheel's camber. Caster you should be able to get the same way but from the machined surface on the top of the steering knuckle where the balljoint goes thru, if there is enough space. You adjust both at the same time by turning the sleeves under the nuts for the upper balljoints, less than ideal setup that will inevitably bring you lots of frustration but still better than no adjustability at all.

However, keep in mind that too much toe in will eat outside edges of tires just as easy if not easier than too much positive camber. So check your toe, should be 1/8" or less in.

Regarding the Bronco tank, no we did not make a new crossmember for them to attach to, we stetched them so they can reach the factory truck crossmembers. We did however put in a small crossmember to contain the tank from sliding forward. Overall it's a pretty decent setup, we did it all from under the truck, bed stayed on the whole time.
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
Did you get the shocks mounted? I love my monroes, I run them on everything....and I have a brand new set of them waiting to be installed on my JK unlimited.
 
Don't know if I missed it or not, but what is your final suspension setup( shocks, coils, leaves)? How is it working out for you? Any settling issues? Any improvements you can think of?
 

greengreer

Adventurer
Been occupied with holidays and other stuff lately. Anyhow, got the fuel tank in today. Put about 15 gallons in it and could not get the truck to start. Turns over fine and I have fuel coming out of the schrader valve on the rail but no start. It was getting on dark and my language was getting colorful so I decided to quit for the day. I'll pickup some ether tomorrow and see if I cant get her to fire. I'm a bit perplexed at this point...
Also I did install the shocks earlier in the week but I haven't driven on them yet.

The suspension setup is pretty basic. Moog cc824 coils, factory leaves, and monroe reflex shocks. So far any and all of these parts can be picked up at a local parts store, which I sort of like that idea. I think I will still end up with bilsteins at some point but hopefully the reflex's perform good enough.
 

greengreer

Adventurer
I love how the reflex performs...if you got the monotubes. Not the twin tubes.

Didn't know they made a twin tube reflex. Mine are monotube. I purchased them on your recommendation. Thanks!

So I didn't have much time to mess with the truck today but it wouldn't fire on ether so there is something with the ignition. Strange. I am suspecting the coil but I will have to delve further into it this week.
 

greengreer

Adventurer
Coil was fine, Icm fine, pulled the ecm and noticed two little burned spots. Aha! Install remanufactured ecm, still won't fire althoug it will hit on ether now...
I have no fuel at the filter, there is lots of fuel in the tank and the I can hear the pump running normally. I am at a bit of a loss at this point. I guess I am going to have to pull the pump and see what's up.
Can a fuel pump be running normally (audibly) but not be pushing fuel?
 

Ghostwhite

New member
Try a squirt of starting fluid in the intake. If it starts you may have a bad TPS, my 94 did this and it was the TPS. Pretty much the computer thought I had the throttle to the floor to clear a flooded engine and it wouldn't give the engine fuel till after it fired off the spray.
 

underdrive

jackwagon
Coil was fine, Icm fine, pulled the ecm and noticed two little burned spots. Aha! Install remanufactured ecm, still won't fire althoug it will hit on ether now...
I have no fuel at the filter, there is lots of fuel in the tank and the I can hear the pump running normally. I am at a bit of a loss at this point. I guess I am going to have to pull the pump and see what's up.
Can a fuel pump be running normally (audibly) but not be pushing fuel?
Have you pulled any trouble codes from the ECM? Also go rent a pressure gauge kit and hook it up to the fuel rail, then you'll know if the pump is doing its job for certain, you want 35-40 psi.
 

greengreer

Adventurer
There is no check engine light. I'm not even getting fuel to the engine. Pulled the filter under the cab and there is nothing coming out of the open line with koeo, and can hear the pump running. Gonna pull the bed in the next few days to track down the issue.
 

Ghostwhite

New member
Try a squirt of starting fluid in the intake. If it starts you may have a bad TPS, my 94 did this and it was the TPS. Pretty much the computer thought I had the throttle to the floor to clear a flooded engine and it wouldn't give the engine fuel till after it fired off the spray.

Did you try this yet? My truck did the same thing, no fuel to the engine because the computer thought I had the throttle pedal to the floor due to a bad TPS. When the throttle is depressed fully the computer quits feeding the engine fuel in order to clear a 'flooded engine'.
 

underdrive

jackwagon
Green, you place too much faith in that check engine light. The rule with the EEC-IV ignition system is to always check for codes if you have any drivability problem, CEL be damned. Just a heads-up for next time ya ou know...

Ghost, if he can hear the pump running there should be fuel shooting out the fuel filter. These pumps are either on or off, there's no voltage variance in order to vary flow rate or anything like that - if she gets 12V she will run at full tilt, if you hear her run she is getting the voltage. That said, we did recently run into a similar issue with a friend's truck, we could hear the pump running but there was no fuel coming out the line feeding the filter. We ended up force-feeding fuel thru the engine via external e-pump sucking from a fuel can, since it was an actual in-tank pump rigged for stand-alone use it did provide the proper flow and pressure to relight the engine, and eventually the truck's own pump joined the party as well. I have no explanation as to what cause it to not push fuel initially, or what brought it back to life, but the tank was full to the top and then some...

Sounds like it's indeed time to pull the bed and see what's going on with the pump.
 

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