1994 quigley e250 rehab
- Thread starter cutnchopit
- Start date
cutnchopit
Member
oh yea, also grabbed some honda odyssey seats. The front two are heated power seats, and the middle row/two have the removable seat system that will need some brackets made to mimic the honda floor. If it isn't too bad to make, the honda brackets allow left and right, together to the left, and a small middle seat for seating options. $160 from LKQ for all of them, so it wouldnt be a complete waste if I can't easily make the middle row mounts, but still want to give it my due diligence. For the third row/way back area, I want to put two back seats from a newer model ford, chevy, or dodge pickup mounted as jump seats/dinette style seating. I will try to hold out for factory black leather to match the black leather honda front seats, but can also order a katskin or similar cover if needed for the newer model trucks, just trying to balance cost and availability to get the same two seats to match left and right. Main thought process for the truck rear bench seat, is that they all fold up out of the way, and would make the transition from work to weekend trip conversions really easy and fast. But also concerned with the safety of sideways seats, which may lead to just using them as a foldable camper dinette and not for road use..throw some lap buckles in for what if use, we'll see.
cutnchopit
Member
Thanks, There's definitely more than one way to go about it. Still not sure if I picked the "better" way. 4x4 swap on a better condition 2wd would have been faster at this point.
Ole Chipper
Member
cutnchopit
Member
Motor update, the cylinder heads tested fine, so I ordered a new gasket set and started re-assembly. If I was a little more patient and experienced in motor stuff I could have diagnosed it to the valves not closing fully, without pulling the motor. I ordered some shims for the pedestal rockers and fumbled my way through the shim pre load set up and making sure they didn't leak with a leak down tester afterwards and put it all back together.
out with the old motor
in with the new.. again
Got the timing set and running well but seems really underpowered in the higher RPM. It makes a lot more noise but hardly any more Go. So I am going to check the fuel pressure and a new fuel filter to make sure it isn't falling a little short on the top end, Double check the timing since I was trying to bump it a litlle after the initial setup, and may cut off the catalytic converter to see if it's bottled up from ZDDP additives and old motor/break in or something. The exhaust was getting noticeably hotter before the cat. If that and phoning a friend for some expert advice doesn't make a noticeable difference I am also on the lookout for smaller tires and researching a gear swap for the first of the year. Leaning towards 4.88's for the gears. I am probably going to be looking at 35"s in the future, the 37's I have now were just a good deal I couldn't pass up. I have a really steep mountain commute to the house every day so a little too low of gearing is ideal if it isn't terrible on the highway. (commute shown below..right up the side of the "mountain". lol)
Coming from the toyota world, the carrier break is new to me. From what I can gather online, I have a semi float dana 60 rear, with 3.73's 35 spline shafts and a limited slip. Anything worth doing while I am in there with the Limited slip? I am not going to splurge on a selectable locker and think a limited slip will work well for me.
out with the old motor
in with the new.. again
Got the timing set and running well but seems really underpowered in the higher RPM. It makes a lot more noise but hardly any more Go. So I am going to check the fuel pressure and a new fuel filter to make sure it isn't falling a little short on the top end, Double check the timing since I was trying to bump it a litlle after the initial setup, and may cut off the catalytic converter to see if it's bottled up from ZDDP additives and old motor/break in or something. The exhaust was getting noticeably hotter before the cat. If that and phoning a friend for some expert advice doesn't make a noticeable difference I am also on the lookout for smaller tires and researching a gear swap for the first of the year. Leaning towards 4.88's for the gears. I am probably going to be looking at 35"s in the future, the 37's I have now were just a good deal I couldn't pass up. I have a really steep mountain commute to the house every day so a little too low of gearing is ideal if it isn't terrible on the highway. (commute shown below..right up the side of the "mountain". lol)
Coming from the toyota world, the carrier break is new to me. From what I can gather online, I have a semi float dana 60 rear, with 3.73's 35 spline shafts and a limited slip. Anything worth doing while I am in there with the Limited slip? I am not going to splurge on a selectable locker and think a limited slip will work well for me.
cutnchopit
Member
Well, I assume I don't have adequate fuel pressure. But I don't know for sure because my fuel pressure tool wouldn't read anything today. But with my quigley tank leaking anyways, and a friend having a new 90-96 f250 16 gallon midship fuel tank kicking around his shop, I went ahead and ordered the 38 gallon rear tank and pair of fuel pump/sending unit assemblies. Upgrades>Repairs! The best solution for me to connect the two tanks, was to get a set of fuel lines from a junk yard off a dual tank gas pickup. Thankfully, the donor truck had a flat bed and I was able to get them without fully dropping either tank or removing the bed. The fuel line is the same ish distance to the midship tank from the fuel filter as my van, shown in the picture. Hoping the other will reach the rear tank without issue. I will probably make some straps for each tank out of flat steel. Might be able to modify the van one for the side/midship tank if it is close. But the side tank is a good bit smaller, so Im not expecting much there. I will make some access covers for fuel pump access in the future, and probably look for a quick connect plug for roadside repairs or issues on the road. I will get into the wiring once I get the tanks in and some of the plumbing stuff done.
If someone is going to change to a rear tank only, it looks like they should be able to use another van return hose as an extension for that side, as it has a female fitting on one end and male on the other. The supply side, rear only tank, simplest way would be a second fuel filter, or better would be to make an adapter from summit adapters, lowes fittings or something and use another van line to extend. another idea would be to use a fuel filter to cut up and weld together as a male to male connector. hopefully I dont need to figure that out and the dual tanks will work.
If someone is going to change to a rear tank only, it looks like they should be able to use another van return hose as an extension for that side, as it has a female fitting on one end and male on the other. The supply side, rear only tank, simplest way would be a second fuel filter, or better would be to make an adapter from summit adapters, lowes fittings or something and use another van line to extend. another idea would be to use a fuel filter to cut up and weld together as a male to male connector. hopefully I dont need to figure that out and the dual tanks will work.
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cutnchopit
Member
Started the 87- 1996? f150 f250 dual fuel tank swap today. Posting pictures is not cooperating on my phone tonight. So U will try again tomorrow. About 85% done with the front tank mounts and skid plate fabrication. Hope to finish that and start the rear tank tomorrow. Then plumbing and wiring soon after..
cutnchopit
Member
Well, I got the skid plates and mounting all in place and tacked together. Going to weld it up tomorrow. But the biggest hiccup I have come across so far, are the fuel lines.
Part one: The dual tank donor truck lines didn't fit as it seemed. It is about 12-18" too short. So my solution is to run the fuel line in the middle of the van instead of down the frame rail. That would give me the foot or so where it goes from the frame rail to the rear tank sending unit that is in the center of the van. Yet again a benefit to the body lift, plenty of room for changes like this.
Part two: the return line for trucks are 5/16, And my van is 3/8 where it connects... stupid little detail that has only annoying solutions so far. (I need the 5/16 male fitting of the truck return fuel line to connect to the vans 3/8 female return line section, that goes to the fuel rail.) I can order three pieces from summit to form an adapter, for $50 ish and time, my fear of something being wrong between universal parts. Or try some nylon repair parts. Female connector to nylon, Barb adapter from 5/16 to 3/8 with high pressure clamps.. to nylon.. to the fuel rail quick fitting. May also end up around $50 but with more connections and less time. I have not looked into the truck parts yet, to see if the next fuel line section would connect by fittings or length.
Part one: The dual tank donor truck lines didn't fit as it seemed. It is about 12-18" too short. So my solution is to run the fuel line in the middle of the van instead of down the frame rail. That would give me the foot or so where it goes from the frame rail to the rear tank sending unit that is in the center of the van. Yet again a benefit to the body lift, plenty of room for changes like this.
Part two: the return line for trucks are 5/16, And my van is 3/8 where it connects... stupid little detail that has only annoying solutions so far. (I need the 5/16 male fitting of the truck return fuel line to connect to the vans 3/8 female return line section, that goes to the fuel rail.) I can order three pieces from summit to form an adapter, for $50 ish and time, my fear of something being wrong between universal parts. Or try some nylon repair parts. Female connector to nylon, Barb adapter from 5/16 to 3/8 with high pressure clamps.. to nylon.. to the fuel rail quick fitting. May also end up around $50 but with more connections and less time. I have not looked into the truck parts yet, to see if the next fuel line section would connect by fittings or length.
cutnchopit
Member
Decided what to do. Going to get the nylon fuel lines and fittings to make an "engine to frame" fuel return line. Instead of an adapter to the van's return line.
Midship tank, smaller dent to fit where the filler neck will line up.
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Why putting the tank further back would be more of an issue than the corner clearance dent
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Filler tube Lines up
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Bigger dent for final mock up, fits better.
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Midship tank, smaller dent to fit where the filler neck will line up.
20201227_170759.jpg
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Why putting the tank further back would be more of an issue than the corner clearance dent
20201227_222600.jpg
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Filler tube Lines up
20201227_222437.jpg
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Bigger dent for final mock up, fits better.
20201227_195233.jpg
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cutnchopit
Member
More pictures i didn't post before.
Scrap tread plate, and leftover steel from the bumper to make skid plates.
Bent some straps to keep the tank in the skid plate and then mounting the skid plate to the chassis.
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Some initial test fitting
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I did move the tank rearward a little further than this picture to center it between the cross members i made at the body mounts. This interfered with the current hitch a little but I planned on scooting it back some and most likely tying into the bumper supports also. Because of removing the hitch, I dont know if my final mounting will be as flush as this picture.
drive.google.com
Scrap tread plate, and leftover steel from the bumper to make skid plates.
Bent some straps to keep the tank in the skid plate and then mounting the skid plate to the chassis.
20201227_183547.jpg
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20201227_202325.jpg
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Some initial test fitting
20201227_224354.jpg
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I did move the tank rearward a little further than this picture to center it between the cross members i made at the body mounts. This interfered with the current hitch a little but I planned on scooting it back some and most likely tying into the bumper supports also. Because of removing the hitch, I dont know if my final mounting will be as flush as this picture.
20201228_205648.jpg
drive.google.com
cutnchopit
Member
Got the fuel pumps installed today. I ran around town to get the parts but I couldn't find the grommet for the rollover valves. I will try the dealer tomorrow or order them online. The truck rear tank sending unit needs to be modified for the 38 gallon tank since it wasn't a factory option. I was able to cannibalize the van "engine to chassis" fuel line for 3/8 stainless tube, and one of my van fuel pumps had two pieces of 5/16 tube to use. It was the van fuel pump with the on board generator port.
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To make these, to extend the pump (FDM) in the deeper tank.
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I used one of the van fuel pump sending units as a donor to make a longer float arm. Straightened it out and eyeballed it, then checked it in the tank to see if it had a decent range by looking through the vent hole and pulling the arm with a long screw driver.
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Interesting tidbit.. if someone has a good modified van tank and wants the ford FDM dual tank setup (pump with built in check valve so you don't need a tank selector valve)... the trucks FDM fit on one of the van sending units I had( the one without an onboard generator output). It should work to add the truck FDM to the right van sending unit, add rear tank and parts, plumbing, and switch. It woukd give the normal quigley 30ish gallons plus a 19 or 38 gallon rear tank. The pump pickup tube is at an angle on the truck FDM, and the van pickup is straight down. So without changing anything you would be missing out on a bit of fuel when empty. But a lot more than switching to the small 16 gallon truck tank like I did.
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I found a picture of one on ebay to show the difference in the pumps intake. Maybe just the ford sending unit? It was hard to find an aftermarket
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To make these, to extend the pump (FDM) in the deeper tank.
20210101_170736.jpg
drive.google.com
I used one of the van fuel pump sending units as a donor to make a longer float arm. Straightened it out and eyeballed it, then checked it in the tank to see if it had a decent range by looking through the vent hole and pulling the arm with a long screw driver.
20210101_184848.jpg
drive.google.com
20210101_184907.jpg
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Interesting tidbit.. if someone has a good modified van tank and wants the ford FDM dual tank setup (pump with built in check valve so you don't need a tank selector valve)... the trucks FDM fit on one of the van sending units I had( the one without an onboard generator output). It should work to add the truck FDM to the right van sending unit, add rear tank and parts, plumbing, and switch. It woukd give the normal quigley 30ish gallons plus a 19 or 38 gallon rear tank. The pump pickup tube is at an angle on the truck FDM, and the van pickup is straight down. So without changing anything you would be missing out on a bit of fuel when empty. But a lot more than switching to the small 16 gallon truck tank like I did.
20210101_161818.jpg
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Screenshot_20210101-203057_eBay.jpg
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cutnchopit
Member
Pulled the transmission because e40ds suck... and while it was out of the way, I started working on some things underneath. Made the rear tank fuel pocket today.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DubLe6okvB0bHnofgUIhdyBhtUSqbO69/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Dy9KRUZ4PdfsC-M6goTK1-AT5ODoLYq_/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DubLe6okvB0bHnofgUIhdyBhtUSqbO69/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Dy9KRUZ4PdfsC-M6goTK1-AT5ODoLYq_/view?usp=drivesdk
cutnchopit
Member
Well, researching insulation options, literally outside of the box. Insulating underneath the van floor. I want spray in bedliner for work use AND insulation. Talk about having my cake and eating it too! I got some ceramic bead additive to add to the bedliner to have an effect similar to "lizard skin" , but looks more like snake oil, lol. I have foam boards which I am going to cut to fit underneath while I have the transmission, fuel tanks and driveshafts out of the way. Half of the floor ribs would be a perfect shelf for 1.5-2" rock wool boards!! Fire resistant, good noise control and R value, moisture wicking and breathable.. Perfect, except im ready to get the transmission and fuel tanks back in while my family is out of town and can't find anywhere locally that has it stocked! So Im going with 3/4" foam and foil insulation boards, and the fake dynamat flashing tape since it will be outside of the cabin (if its not 100% butyl and stinks). May can foam some of the closed ribs in the center, closed cell foam, and leave the outside areas and body mounts open for drainage.. pictures later.. insulation as well as swapping the quigley parts to a used 2wd E40D transmission to get it up and going again. If this one messes up soon-ish I'll look into a locally built
or monster transmission.
or monster transmission.