1995 4RUNNER Project Page

slosurfer

Adventurer
4AFK said:
I have a 5spd manual. No real plans for the front end yet, I've been pretty sucessful with what's on there and the low range.

Nice!

There is one spot on our front ends that is extremely weak and should be fixed whether you plan on leaving it stock or lifting it. The rear of the lower control arms does not have a supporting crossbrace. This can cause your frame to bend in that section, even from just dirt roads or hitting a pothole the wrong way. Adding a brace here will help keep everything solid and in the correct place which will help keep your alignment also.

I have the Sonoran Steel brace, but there are other companies that make one as well (Downey, Total Chaos, and others). Since you plan on using your rig for exploring, this is definately something I would suggest you add pronto. If you look at later toyota IFS, they have the crossbracing straight from the factory. This was the first "mod" that I did to my 4runner when I started researching what could be done to strengthen and enhance my vehicle.

This seems to be an integral part that is often overlooked, that is why I always bring it up.

I'm interested to see how you do your dual battery setup as that is something I want to add soon. I will probably go with this dual battery kit from 12voltguy.

By the way, nice clean 4runner!:punk03:
 

4cruzer

Adventurer
slosurfer, do it!

I have the 12voltguy setup, but with a twist. I just finished installing it and will do a little write-up soon, possibly this weekend. The 12voltguy is super pro, and super easy to deal with. I'd highly recommend him. Coolest part about him is that he's wide open to making anything you might be able to think up (like I did)...writeup soon.
 

slosurfer

Adventurer
4cruzer said:
I have the 12voltguy setup, but with a twist. I just finished installing it and will do a little write-up soon, possibly this weekend. The 12voltguy is super pro, and super easy to deal with. I'd highly recommend him. Coolest part about him is that he's wide open to making anything you might be able to think up (like I did)...writeup soon.

Yeh, he rocks! I've talked to him on the phone a couple times, I bought some switches from him and he donated stuff for the Pismo 4runner Jambo. He even helped me figure out some wiring for my switch and lightforces.

I'm looking forward to your writeup! I would have done the dual batteries awhile ago except for the fact that there is little to no room under my hood.
 

4Rescue

Expedition Leader
Nice rig, and super clean mate. Might I suggest an OME suspension for it, you won't be dissapointed... Looking forward to seeing the build progress.

And of course welcome to the Expo mate.

Cheers

Dave
 

4AFK

Observer
slosurfer said:
Nice!
I have the Sonoran Steel brace, but there are other companies that make one as well (Downey, Total Chaos, and others). Since you plan on using your rig for exploring, this is definately something I would suggest you add pronto. If you look at later toyota IFS, they have the crossbracing straight from the factory. This was the first "mod" that I did to my 4runner when I started researching what could be done to strengthen and enhance my vehicle.

Thanks, this is exactly the kind of tribal knowledge I need to make my rig work over the long haul. Its only too bad that this kind of knowledge can't come from Toyota directly since they know what these rigs get used for. Guess making a truck last considerably longer than they were engineered for cuts down on re-purchase profits. :yikes:

slosurfer said:
This seems to be an integral part that is often overlooked, that is why I always bring it up.

Please keep bringing stuff like this up. I've rebuilt several VW Bugs in the past, but this truck is hopelessly more complicated than those vehicles ever could be. I really appreciate all the experience you guys have in the 4Runner arena.

slosurfer said:
I'm interested to see how you do your dual battery setup as that is something I want to add soon. I will probably go with this dual battery kit from 12voltguy.

By the way, nice clean 4runner!:punk03:

A kit like this would work better for me I'm starting to think. I've contacted three RV shops to see if I could get them to do custom work. None of them have experience with compact installations and all of them are taking their sweet time getting back to me. Tough for them, I can do the work myself (maybe when it warms up a little) save a little money and make it work for me.

Stereo system and GPS are now wired and I can't think of an electrical system that needs any more work. I had the following installed yesterday:

Pioneer DEH-P790BT Deck w/
Bluetooth Integration (Phone)​
Zune Aux Input​
iPod Aux Input​
Bluetooth Aux Input (will pair laptop after the 12V install is done)​
2x Infinity 6021si Speakers Front
2x Infinity 6022i Speakers Rear

Drove almost 200 miles with the Zune playing yesterday and it sure improved the experience. Still a few configuration bugs I need to work out of the system before I can be super happy with it, but the manual is infront of me now.
 

slosurfer

Adventurer
That looks like a really nice setup. My stock HU is on it's last leg. Do you have any pics of it installed?
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
slosurfer said:
Nice!

There is one spot on our front ends that is extremely weak and should be fixed whether you plan on leaving it stock or lifting it. The rear of the lower control arms does not have a supporting crossbrace. This can cause your frame to bend in that section, even from just dirt roads or hitting a pothole the wrong way. Adding a brace here will help keep everything solid and in the correct place which will help keep your alignment also.

I have the Sonoran Steel brace, but there are other companies that make one as well (Downey, Total Chaos, and others). Since you plan on using your rig for exploring, this is definately something I would suggest you add pronto. If you look at later toyota IFS, they have the crossbracing straight from the factory. This was the first "mod" that I did to my 4runner when I started researching what could be done to strengthen and enhance my vehicle.

This seems to be an integral part that is often overlooked, that is why I always bring it up.
Lots of people add the brace (I also used the Sonoran Steel product...nice), but it's overblown I think. It's not a ticking time bomb for a stock truck and many people never find it's a problem. But when you crank up the torsions, add ball joint spacers and run 33" tires, then go hammer on your truck, then you can tweak it. I put my brace on this winter and my A-arm brackets measured 17" on the nose, which is stock for 2nd gen 4Runner and 3rd gen pickups. I've run 33x9.50, cranked torsions and a front locker for 3 years now. I don't beat my truck silly, but it's not treated with white gloves either. I think it's a good idea, but not necessary for everyone. It makes oil changes a pain for one and if you want a diff drop, that would require some customization.
4AFK said:
Thanks, this is exactly the kind of tribal knowledge I need to make my rig work over the long haul. Its only too bad that this kind of knowledge can't come from Toyota directly since they know what these rigs get used for. Guess making a truck last considerably longer than they were engineered for cuts down on re-purchase profits. :yikes:
I suspect the reason it's built that way is for a reason. Adding the brace would come at the expense of access. It could be like the front one, be removable, though. But if you look at the way the bracket is reinforced and gussets added, it does not break. The frame actual flares slightly and to do that takes quite a hit. When I bought my brace from Steve he said that from the factory the measurement can vary a 1/2" on either side of 17" and so I think some people think they have a failing frame when really it's just that it was originally built to the edge of the tolerance. Personally from the way it sounds like you are building your truck, if you stay inside factory specs (i.e. no 4" Pro Comp lifts and just a little torsion lift for 31" or 32" tires) and don't rock crawl, I wouldn't be too concerned. But, yeah, it's a piece of mind thing.
 

slosurfer

Adventurer
^^ Good info, like you said it is good peace of mind. I think it was left out because they didn't realize that they would need it, if it wasn't needed then the next generations of IFS would also be missing that crossbrace. All IFS after 95 have a crossbrace there.

Also, I'm not sure how you change your oil, but I have never had a problem with the brace and changing oil. It's the front crossbrace that gets oil on and in it. You may have to crawl a little farther under to get the drain plug off, but it in no way is what makes changing the oil on these things a pain.

If you are going to do a "diff drop", then I would go with a Downey tube style brace, as they allow more room.

Like Dave said, I wouldn't worry about it being a ticking time bomb, but it is something to think about.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
slosurfer said:
Also, I'm not sure how you change your oil, but I have never had a problem with the brace and changing oil. It's the front crossbrace that gets oil on and in it. You may have to crawl a little farther under to get the drain plug off, but it in no way is what makes changing the oil on these things a pain.
I have a 22R-E and the oil drains to the passenger's side, pointed at the diff. The oil drain hole is right above the brace, so after the initial 10 seconds of rust proofing the differential, the oil stream thins and falls right on the top of the brace and pools, eventually running all over the place. I made a chute that fit over the diff that's shaped like a deep 'V' and that worked. But it's just a major pain in the rear to get in there, it takes a contortionist to get the plug out without burning yourself if the oil is hot. This is why I think the brace was not there from the start, since the majority of trucks in the rest of the world would have had a 22R or 2L, both of which have the oil drain located in such a way that a rear A-arm brace is in the way. Just my assumption. I think with a 3VZ having the drain plug in front, it wouldn't make it any more difficult, but on a 4 cylinder the brace is a major increase in the oil changing difficulty factor. ;-)

Oh, I forgot to mention that drilling through those brackets was not fun. They are partially double wall and getting the bit to bite right was frustrating. Give yourself some time, don't rush and let the drill do the work. But man oh man, is that steel tough as nails stuff.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
12voltguy

Hey, you guys with the 12voltguy dual battery kits, where did you mount the second battery? Also, which engine are you working with? I've been through my engine bay with a tape and there's so much space here and there, but nothing is jumping out to me as the obvious spot to mount a battery. There's a fuse box or ignition coil or AFM in the spots that a second battery might go, so I was just wondering what you moved to fit it or did you remote mount the second battery in the back or something.
 
S

Scenic WonderRunner

Guest
Welcome to ExPo.........

I saw the talk about the Brace........so I thought I would show mine. It was under $100 bucks....installed. It's welded up Solid. With free black spray paint even! No extra charge.:wings:


Do NOT!....get the kind that bolt on!

Here is a link to where I got mine...........

2006_0420SWRafterRebuild0007.jpg



It's a good feeeling to know it's there!


And......now that I see this pic......do we put the white letters IN....OR......Out?:confused:


.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Scenic WonderRunner said:
do we put the white letters IN....OR......Out
Lettering goes in, no question.

BTW, have you ever tried getting your front diff out? That's sort of the advantage to a bolted on part, take both front and rear braces out and getting that pig out is a little easier.
 
S

Scenic WonderRunner

Guest
DaveInDenver said:
Lettering goes in, no question.

BTW, have you ever tried getting your front diff out? That's sort of the advantage to a bolted on part, take both front and rear braces out and getting that pig out is a little easier.


Whew!

Thanks!

Do you have ANY Idea.....How long I have been asking myself that question!

Thats why I just love ExPo.........So Much!:wings: :wings: :26_7_2: :wings:


...........hehe
 

slosurfer

Adventurer
Dave, that makes sense, we're working with different engines, lol, I couldn't figure that one out.

I also forgot about the pain it was to drill those holes, I guess it's like women and childbirth, they forget about the pain (how else could you explain families with 2 kids :)
 

Grim Reaper

Expedition Leader
Scenic WonderRunner said:
Welcome to ExPo.........

I saw the talk about the Brace........so I thought I would show mine. It was under $100 bucks....installed. It's welded up Solid. With free black spray paint even! No extra charge.:wings:


Do NOT!....get the kind that bolt on!

Here is a link to where I got mine...........

2006_0420SWRafterRebuild0007.jpg



It's a good feeeling to know it's there!


And......now that I see this pic......do we put the white letters IN....OR......Out?:confused:


.
Whats wrong with bolt it? Mine bolts in exactly like the factory front...in fact mine is a factory front that I cut off the remnants of the suspension my buddy removed when he did a SAS. Cost a big fat Zero and about an after noon of farting around in the shop. I do have more time then money though...and a welder. :)

http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=66295&postcount=14



Dave get the Fumoto. http://www.fumotousa.com/ One of the best upgrades yet. I got the one with the nipple and stick a hose on it right into a 5quart jug. NO clean up of a drain pan needed now. I did have to grind a little on the casting ridge on the diff and make a 3/8-1/2 inch half moon in it but only took about 5 minutes with an angle grinder and nowhere near the main housing.
 

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